40' x 8' x 8' shipping container layout

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grande man said:
I'm gonna let my mind run wild a minute because every time I see Dave's container pics, that's what it does. Again, please don't take my comments as recommendations Dave, I know you've got a great plan in mind and the container is a fantastic idea (thanks).

What if, a container layout was built on two levels, shadow box style, and hung from the steel roof/walls? With 40" sides and 8" ends a fellow could end up with pretty good separation between the levels (y'all keep in mind 4% grades are OK with us D&RGW guys, lol). This would also allow extra space under the lower level uncluttered by traditional benchwork. Think of the end result, FOUR 40' runs plus the ends. I'm seeing the mine cutaway scene I've dreamed about on one of the ends, floor to ceiling... I'm seeing a fully signaled mainline with reasonable block lengths. Oh my, I gotta pull the power back on this runaway train.
Click to expand...
Dream on, brother...

Plans in the head come free of charge!
 


Simple method for footing: remove sod, excavate, add porous aggregate, concrete pad, vapor block, treated lumber

prepping footing.jpg


First, I excacavate the sod and some of the underlying soil. It is very dry, the ground is powdery sandy loam. I added about 3" of gravel/sand mixture

footing.jpg


I used ground treated 2 x 10's on top of the concrete paver. There is a coating of roofing tar for a moisture block

level.jpg


It is the end of the day and the container is level. The door goes on next. Bought that at Menards today, along with a lot of the electrical boxes and conduit.
 
The electrical trench is dug and will have 40 amp service for trains, lights, and heat. Experimented with cutting holes in the 14 ga metal and find that the hardware store hole saw works fine, as does the 4 1/2" angle grinder.

Here is the hole for the service entrance and an installed outlet for when I want to do some messy cutting outdoors.

outside receptacle.JPG



The door will go just to the right of the outlet and between the two pads.

3 pads.JPG


If the weather clears up, I should get the wire down after work today.

Dave LASM
 
logandsawman said:
The electrical trench is dug and will have 40 amp service for trains, lights, and heat. Experimented with cutting holes in the 14 ga metal and find that the hardware store hole saw works fine, as does the 4 1/2" angle grinder.

Here is the hole for the service entrance and an installed outlet for when I want to do some messy cutting outdoors.

View attachment 203553


The door will go just to the right of the outlet and between the two pads.

View attachment 203555

If the weather clears up, I should get the wire down after work today.

Dave LASM
Click to expand...
Have fun with this Dave, it looks great
 


The numbers are in on the train shed. I went ahead and purchased the sheeting for the benchwork as well, there will be a few misc debits but I came in surprisingly close:

estimate vs actual.png


I budgeted $9,000 so have about 1,000 for track and other fun stuff. I got the wire down yesterday, and weather permitted, the shed will have electricity by this evening.

Dave LASM
 
logandsawman said:
The numbers are in on the train shed. I went ahead and purchased the sheeting for the benchwork as well, there will be a few misc debits but I came in surprisingly close:

View attachment 203608

I budgeted $9,000 so have about 1,000 for track and other fun stuff. I got the wire down yesterday, and weather permitted, the shed will have electricity by this evening.

Dave LASM
Click to expand...
Hay Dave! I read back through your posts on the container. Did not see what type of electrical drop you are putting in. Sure 40 Amps, but is that 240V 3 or 4 wire or just 120V 3 wire?

I found that 40A @ 120V you come up a little lacking once you get all things wanted installed and up and running. 40A @ 220V doubles the available current. I went through just that when we did the upstairs redo. 3 bedrooms into 2. 1 is a guest room, the other is the daughter's craft room. Led Lighting for this is cheap, both electrical and price wise. Ceiling fans, 1 Air Conditioner so far, TV and Computer did not leave very much power for the rest of her craft stuff: 2 Cricut's, associated shirt vinyl irons and glass infuser along with all localized work lights, USB glue and that kind of stuff, so I backed up and went with 240V 40A 4 wire. Note that heat is/was not needed as it is in the house proper, where as yours is not and might be a more of a consideration.

Since this is a metal building and pretty much a lighting rod, 10 or 12Ft Copper rod in the ground will probably do; that depends how 'wet' your ground is as you get deeper into it. Then you can go with 220V 3 wire with a local Earth ground.

You probably already have thought about this, but JIC.

Later
 
ctclibby said:
Hay Dave! I read back through your posts on the container. Did not see what type of electrical drop you are putting in. Sure 40 Amps, but is that 240V 3 or 4 wire or just 120V 3 wire?

I found that 40A @ 120V you come up a little lacking once you get all things wanted installed and up and running. 40A @ 220V doubles the available current. I went through just that when we did the upstairs redo. 3 bedrooms into 2. 1 is a guest room, the other is the daughter's craft room. Led Lighting for this is cheap, both electrical and price wise. Ceiling fans, 1 Air Conditioner so far, TV and Computer did not leave very much power for the rest of her craft stuff: 2 Cricut's, associated shirt vinyl irons and glass infuser along with all localized work lights, USB glue and that kind of stuff, so I backed up and went with 240V 40A 4 wire. Note that heat is/was not needed as it is in the house proper, where as yours is not and might be a more of a consideration.

Since this is a metal building and pretty much a lighting rod, 10 or 12Ft Copper rod in the ground will probably do; that depends how 'wet' your ground is as you get deeper into it. Then you can go with 220V 3 wire with a local Earth ground.

You probably already have thought about this, but JIC.

Later
Click to expand...
Right, I calculated all my elec needs and have capacity to spare. The heating units require 20 amps and heating and air will not be running at the same time. Lights, only a few amps and the train will be less than 4 as well. If I need air circulation, a 20" box fan even at 100 watts is only 1 amp. My 8 gauge wire even with only 120 volt current gives me 40 amps of coverage no sweat.
 
ctclibby said:
Good! I figured you thought through it but wanted to be sure.

Another thing that may throw a wrench in the works. You will be inside a building completely surrounded by metal. Cell phone and WiFi - if they work at all they could be real iffy.

Later
Click to expand...
A cat 6 cable run out to the container, and a router inside, would solve most of that. If calls are needed, there are apps to download so cell phones can make calls over wifi.
 
ctclibby said:
Good! I figured you thought through it but wanted to be sure.

Another thing that may throw a wrench in the works. You will be inside a building completely surrounded by metal. Cell phone and WiFi - if they work at all they could be real iffy.

Later
Click to expand...
Guys, we are very low tech at our place. My railroad is all DC and I only use the computer at our kitchen island, we do not have Wi-Fi but use the mobile hotspot on our cell phones for all our home computer access.

I do most of my computer stuff using the free wi-fi at work. One of the perks of working for the Govt.

Dave LASM
 
It turned out much easier than expected to get the hole cut in the container. I used the angle grinder with the metal cutting blade. Once I got the hang of it I was able to move along at a nice pace...

I finished the electrical service entrance, buried a lot of the trench, and got the door hung-

hole cut.JPG


I cut the sill board so it fit snugly over the lip of metal that I left. Also, I cut a slit along the side of both vertical pieces. I used treated 2 x 4's for the frame and a treated 1 x 6 for the piece over the transom

framed in 2.JPG


I siliconed in all the areas where wood meets up with the metal.

door is in.JPG


I cleaned up the whole area. The top electrical box is just an outside service. The bottom one is where the 8 gauge feeder goes into the shed.

I am getting excited about starting on the benchwork and dismantling the old layout... next will be

1) cutting another vent,
2) completing the furring strips and interior wiring,
3) insulating, then
4) Benchwork

My wife us super excited about getting another room in the house, and I am excited about getting a big space for my trains

Dave LASM
 
logandsawman said:
It turned out much easier than expected to get the hole cut in the container. I used the angle grinder with the metal cutting blade. Once I got the hang of it I was able to move along at a nice pace...

I finished the electrical service entrance, buried a lot of the trench, and got the door hung-

View attachment 204053

I cut the sill board so it fit snugly over the lip of metal that I left. Also, I cut a slit along the side of both vertical pieces. I used treated 2 x 4's for the frame and a treated 1 x 6 for the piece over the transom

View attachment 204054

I siliconed in all the areas where wood meets up with the metal.

View attachment 204055

I cleaned up the whole area. The top electrical box is just an outside service. The bottom one is where the 8 gauge feeder goes into the shed.

I am getting excited about starting on the benchwork and dismantling the old layout... next will be

1) cutting another vent,
2) completing the furring strips and interior wiring,
3) insulating, then
4) Benchwork

My wife us super excited about getting another room in the house, and I am excited about getting a big space for my trains

Dave LASM
Click to expand...
I'm jealous.
 


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