migalyto
Well-Known Member
Just adding the door made a huge difference in its appearance.
It looks more like a structure than a container.
Well done!
40' x 8' x 8' shipping container layout
- Thread starter logandsawman
- Start date
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It looks more like a structure than a container.
Well done!
Dream, plan & build.
I think that is why your projects go so smooth; everything is always well thought out.
I'm getting excited to this latest project come to life!
I too have 39Ft of length to play with. It all looks pretty full when hand drawn on small paper. Maybe it is time to learn some railroad CAD program as that will allow you to fit the curves better and show how much room you actually have for buildings and trackwork. Or get some 'E' size or 3ft wide butcher paper and play with compass, protractor and stuff like that to scale it and establish your curves. Either way will help get rid of those later headaches.
Keep the pix coming!
Later
There will be a swing up at the door so I can do the loop. Just a single track there by design. The plan is fluid, and believe it or not, I took out a couple towns already so it wouldn't feel crowded. My curve radii will be 24" wherever possible, however I can go quite a bit smaller because I don't plan on any heavy (long) locomotives. The main prototype for this line was the ten wheeler, and I don't anticipate going any bigger.
I think the larger radius track looks the best, however.
Thanks for commenting!! Dave LASM
Wife thought that was better because I could put on a screen door or combo storm door in the summer.
Thanks for asking!
I like that idea. It will be fine as long as you don't have a huge fire when many visitors are over
I was thinking about your 'door canyon'. If it were me, I would not use something that raises vertically but maybe a swing in horizontally. If something is gonna happen, it is gonna happen to me. That raised bridge would find a way to come down because of 'ghosts' or something and getting in would be a real pita.
Later
Also, and almost as likely, the wife can’t barricade you inside.
Swing-out entry doors have permanently inserted pins in the hinges.
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It looks more like a structure than a container.
Well done!
AirbrushNo5
Well-Known Member
This project looks so cool…
Bruette
Well-Known Member
Win, win, I'm happy for you and it looks great!
You have been like that since I've known you.
Dream, plan & build.
I think that is why your projects go so smooth; everything is always well thought out.
I'm getting excited to this latest project come to life!
logandsawman
Northern Pacific history enthusiast
The train shed is really taking shape, the framing is done and the light boxes are in place:
NOTE : In the title it says 8' high container. It is actually 9' high to the ceiling, the bottom of the rafters is at 8'. When I bought it, he said 8'high, but I wasn't about to send it back for being extra tall!
The preliminary wires run to all the light boxes got done as well, I decided to put a ceiling fan in as well (in front of the door)
I completed putting screen in the transom as well. I also cut another ventilation opening and covered that with screen today:
The little hole has a screen in it and there is a wood piece that will plug it from the inside for when I don't need it.
Before wrapping it up for the day, I totally cleaned up the interior, swept, and got it ready for the next session:
- run wires for receptacles
- run wires for heaters
- insulate
- Benchwork !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is when the REAL fun begins
Dave LASM
NOTE : In the title it says 8' high container. It is actually 9' high to the ceiling, the bottom of the rafters is at 8'. When I bought it, he said 8'high, but I wasn't about to send it back for being extra tall!
The preliminary wires run to all the light boxes got done as well, I decided to put a ceiling fan in as well (in front of the door)
I completed putting screen in the transom as well. I also cut another ventilation opening and covered that with screen today:
The little hole has a screen in it and there is a wood piece that will plug it from the inside for when I don't need it.
Before wrapping it up for the day, I totally cleaned up the interior, swept, and got it ready for the next session:
- run wires for receptacles
- run wires for heaters
- insulate
- Benchwork !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is when the REAL fun begins
Dave LASM
That's what is known as a high cube container. They're a foot taller than standard.
migalyto
Well-Known Member
That's actually a bonus. You can pack an extra layer of insulation in that roof.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Great progress and super it’s a high cube
logandsawman
Northern Pacific history enthusiast
The plans for my towns and industry are down on paper. It looks like benchwork will be going in during Thanksgiving at the latest. Many of these buildings are coming off the existing layout, however I decided to totally take all the track off my current benchwork, also all the buildings, trees, signals, and lights. I think I will end up with the nicest layout this way.
I also plan on using cork roadbed on this project, something I haven't done before, but I know my trains will be very quiet if I use this method.
There are 3 bridges planned, one of which is done, another one is small, and the kettle river bridge is undetermined which one I will model. Some of these scenes will be close replicas of historical photos, and others will be loosely modeled. The time frame modeled is 1900-1940. (allows the use of my S-1 switcher.)
Each square is 1' and the dimension is 7'-8" wide by 39' long, with a 3' entrance door.
My current layout is about 12' x 12' so these buildings and more should "easily" fit into the new plan. I will be adding a feed elevator, manual turntable, some sidings, a couple bridges, some bigger farming and logging areas. This is mostly the Northern Pacific with possible one Great Northern trestle over the Kettle River in Sandstone.
Dave LASM
I also plan on using cork roadbed on this project, something I haven't done before, but I know my trains will be very quiet if I use this method.
There are 3 bridges planned, one of which is done, another one is small, and the kettle river bridge is undetermined which one I will model. Some of these scenes will be close replicas of historical photos, and others will be loosely modeled. The time frame modeled is 1900-1940. (allows the use of my S-1 switcher.)
Each square is 1' and the dimension is 7'-8" wide by 39' long, with a 3' entrance door.
My current layout is about 12' x 12' so these buildings and more should "easily" fit into the new plan. I will be adding a feed elevator, manual turntable, some sidings, a couple bridges, some bigger farming and logging areas. This is mostly the Northern Pacific with possible one Great Northern trestle over the Kettle River in Sandstone.
Dave LASM
ctclibby
Well-Known Member
Dave: You have been busy! Looking good so far. Is your current layout Point to Point too? Or are you going to put in a swing bridge to cross 'Door Canyon'? Also looks like a passing siding could be fun between Sandstone and the Kettle River bridge.
I too have 39Ft of length to play with. It all looks pretty full when hand drawn on small paper. Maybe it is time to learn some railroad CAD program as that will allow you to fit the curves better and show how much room you actually have for buildings and trackwork. Or get some 'E' size or 3ft wide butcher paper and play with compass, protractor and stuff like that to scale it and establish your curves. Either way will help get rid of those later headaches.
Keep the pix coming!
Later
logandsawman
Northern Pacific history enthusiast
It is going really fast. My insulation is in 100' x 4' rolls and it tacks right on top of the furring strips and I anticipate that being quick, a lot of the really tedious jobs have been completed. There will be a loop of 12-2 WG for the heaters and a loop of 14-2 WG for the receptacles.
There will be a swing up at the door so I can do the loop. Just a single track there by design. The plan is fluid, and believe it or not, I took out a couple towns already so it wouldn't feel crowded. My curve radii will be 24" wherever possible, however I can go quite a bit smaller because I don't plan on any heavy (long) locomotives. The main prototype for this line was the ten wheeler, and I don't anticipate going any bigger.
I think the larger radius track looks the best, however.
Thanks for commenting!! Dave LASM
RhB Michael
RhB Lokführer
Was there a reason you chose the door to swing in instead of out?
logandsawman
Northern Pacific history enthusiast
I was looking for a swing out. All they had at my building supply store was swing in.
Wife thought that was better because I could put on a screen door or combo storm door in the summer.
Thanks for asking!
PMW
Well-Known Member
I like that idea. It will be fine as long as you don't have a huge fire when many visitors are over
Iron Horseman
Well-Known Member
Ooooh, you can work in a Z-6, and the A-3 also. They were the beginning of the super steam era.
Bruette
Well-Known Member
It will make it easier to barricade the door if the Zombies attack. I see a lot of that on TV so it must be a thing.
ctclibby
Well-Known Member
Dave: Think that mobile homes had something to do with ingress doors always opening in. If I remember, it had something to do with the fire crews finding it easier to knock a door in vs trying to pull it out when a rescue was necessary. Pretty much code now; although with an out building, no clue. Two other things that come to mind 1 is wind, other is the hinges would be on the outside and pretty easy to pull the pins. With wind you don't want the door banging on the side of the structure because of it, and if you have loose clothing that happens to get caught on it somehow, out you go too.
I was thinking about your 'door canyon'. If it were me, I would not use something that raises vertically but maybe a swing in horizontally. If something is gonna happen, it is gonna happen to me. That raised bridge would find a way to come down because of 'ghosts' or something and getting in would be a real pita.
Later
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ctclibby
Well-Known Member
Hay! That might work. If you use 2 sides and 1 end ( 88' ) for ramps with a 16" separation, you would have ~1.5% grade. Note that you would need 2 ramps, one up, one down and you can stagger them; start one on the left side, other on the right. This way you would only have a bulge on one end that would crowd the lower level. Dave - get to work!
Rico
BNSF Modeller
Two things that come to mind, snow drifts and tumble weeds as well. Both have been know to block doorways.
Also, and almost as likely, the wife can’t barricade you inside.
RhB Michael
RhB Lokführer
Swing-out entry doors have permanently inserted pins in the hinges.
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