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From what I figure:
50 LPI = approx. 1.75" links
42 LPI = approx. 2.00" links
40 LPI = approx. 2.18" links
36 LPI = approx. 2.35" links
I don't know how big prototypical chain is, probably a bit smaller than scale chain is available in? I'm guessing prototype chain is closer to 1" (which...
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I used a razor saw to notch about 2' of mainline on my layout; I'm glad I didn't do more. It produced a pretty loud clickity (HO is too small to produce the 'clack'. lol) sound as the metal wheels rolled over the small notches. This caused no problems with derailments, cleaning, but it was...
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The best roads I've seen modeled used home made decals made using photos of real streets. I've yet to try this but an article in Model Railroader a while ago showed how to do this.
I've just poured an industrial area with plaster (tracks in pavement)...at first I started out real carefully...
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Economy paint jobs, or simplified paint jobs were applied when a railroad wanted to save a bit of money. They still did a good job applying the paint, they just chose less colors (and cheaper ones too - black, white, no bright colors typically) and put on fewer or less 'fancy' markings.
You...
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Both. Using both will give different, not necessarily wrong, results. There is a lot of variation in rust in the real world. Do a couple of cars using each and see what you prefer, neither will be 'wrong' and will add variety.
I like oils for their long working time, so the colors can be...
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I like what one well known model railroader answered when asked about his plywood choice...
"Why did I use 3/4" plywood? Because I couldn't get 1" plywood."
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I bought Micro Engineering HO Code 10 flex track and turnouts from billstrainsandtrack, best price for ME track I've found.
I also pre-ordered some locos from toytrainheaven: Athearn Genesis C&O GP9's with DCC and Sound $210; Bowser C&O U25B's $299 - As far as I can tell, Bowser sells...
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I'm starting to scratchbuild several large (20"-42" long, 8"-10" deep) and was thinking about how I should cut these large sheets. Currently, I measure twice, cut once (really!) and do a bit of sanding to make sure parts are square and/or mate with adjoining pieces.
What I've been thinking...
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