Wiring Peco switches


M

mike in arkansas

New Member
Ok—20 years ago I started an N scale train layout for my new born grand son. Alas it was destroyed in our move from Texas to Arkansas. I ran across the track and trains etc. in a box the other day and decided to start another layout for myself. First train I have had since the Lionel days some 60 years ago (I am 70 now!).
Anyway, enough of the rambling. I laid out my track on a door. When I went to test run the engine it worked great, until I tried to back onto a spur (I think that is what it is called). There was no power on the mainline so I could not back up! I have Peco electro frog switches (I think that is the name) and obviously the switch controls the current to the track. Can I just put a jumper from the main line to the spur? Do I have to modify the switch in anyway.

I am only running a single train (if I expand I know I will need to do stuff differently!)

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance—I know this is a VERY basic question but that is where I am today!

Oh as long as I am here I have a question. I want to model steam and it looks like only Bachmann and Model Power are in my budget. Does anyone prefer one over the other?

Mike
 
Hello MIKE from Arkansas! Welcome! Where in Arkansas? Don't see anything in your profile?
Reason I ask is that I'm originally from LA (Lower Arkansas), but that's 53 years ago now.

I'm sure that someone will answer your question - lots of good help around here. I am mainly an armchair modeler these days, but follow the forum closely. Come amd jaw a bit with us guys in "the coffee shop". You might post your question there as well.
 
mike in arkansas said:
I laid out my track on a door. When I went to test run the engine it worked great, until I tried to back onto a spur. There was no power on the mainline so I could not back up! I have Peco electro frog switches (I think that is the name) and obviously the switch controls the current to the track. Can I just put a jumper from the main line to the spur? Do I have to modify the switch in anyway.
Click to expand...
No, no modifications. What is happening when you throw the turnout is that the power from the loop of track is coming into the turnout backwards and causing a short circuit. The way to solve this is to put an insulated rail joiner on the rail that is closest to the center of the turnout, on the main loop track. Then everything will work fine.

Longer explanation. The one end of the turnout has 4 rails coming out of it. Two go to one track (in your loop) and the other two go to the spur. The two most inside rails (one from each track) eventually join together in a "V" shape. That V is called the frog and those two rails are called the frog rails. So you need an insulated joiner (or just a gap - leave off the rail joiner) on the frog rail of the track that is in the loop.
 
:p STUPID STUPID STUPID-- well, Iron Horseman, the insulated joiner sounded good to me. I took one last look at things before i ordered what i needed to do that. BUT, on the other side of the layout was another spur-- and the switch was set to the spur! So when i switched the spur on this side, it isolated the main track between the two switches!! So when i set the other switch to the main loop- IT WORKED!!

As for Sirfold, I live in Mountain View about 100 Miles north of Little Rock. And as far as I can tell there are no hobby shops even in Little Rock. The closest one is about 2 or 3 hours away, so it looks like it is all online for me!
 
The basic "rule" is always electrically feed turnouts (track switches) from the point end. If you have a loop of track with a turnout in it, place an insulated rail joiner on the rail that connects to the frog (where the rails cross) on the main line rail. If you have a second turnout in the loop, where they are both, say, righthand or lefthand turnouts, you need to place another insulated rail joiner between the frog rail of the second turnout and the point end of the first turnout. In that case, you will need to feed power to the point ends of both turnouts, possibly using a jumper from one feeder to the point end of the second turnout. Note that when the points are aligned with the main, the spur (dead end tracks) will be dead. When the points are aligned with the spur siding, the main line on the frog end of the turnout will be dead. This is true for Peco Electrofrog turnouts, Shinohara and some others with "hot" frogs. Atlas SnapTrack and Mark IV turnouts have insulated frogs, and some can be powered to change polarity from a relay or contacts on a switch machine.
 
Ok Trailrider-- I think i have powered one of the turnout from NOT the point end (if the pointend is where the train enters the turnout before taking one of two routes! As you can see I have a LOT to learn-- that is why I am starting with a small layout to learn from my misteaks (mistakes?) and learn the basics of scenery etc. Thanks for your patience and help!

Blessings on y'all, Mike
 
mike in arkansas said:
Ok Trailrider-- I think i have powered one of the turnout from NOT the point end (if the pointend is where the train enters the turnout before taking one of two routes! As you can see I have a LOT to learn-- that is why I am starting with a small layout to learn from my misteaks (mistakes?) and learn the basics of scenery etc. Thanks for your patience and help!

Blessings on y'all, Mike
Click to expand...
I suggest you pick up a book on model railroading electrical. Depending on whether you are wiring for DC or DCC, you may want books on both subjects.
 
TOOT = You Never fail to amuse me! That was very good!

Mike: I think you mistook my post. I was referring to "Running Bear's Coffee Shop" in the forum here. Usually lots of information posted there along with everyday livery, and it's a good place for most questions. Usually someone has an answer for you.
 
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