Wiring Layout

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johnmc

New Member
HELP

I am 76 year old and I have just started my first layout, I do not know how to wire it up and put it in the plastic rail joiners, I have been told that I need 1 connection on each round track and 6 plastic joiners also I have been told I need 28!! connection and 18 plastic rail joiners (doubled) Can someone out there help me see attached drawing of the layout. PLease mark the drawings and send it back. Thanks


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First of all, why DC only? DCC is much simpler. You only need more controllers in DC if you plan to run more than one train. But the minute you start adding controllers, then all of a sudden DCC starts become cheaper and is much more versatile, and WAY WAY WAY more easy to wire. You just hook up the track and you are done. No blocks, insulators, etc. All your trains are independently controlled and you can run like the real thing and not like a model railroad.

If this is your first layout, keep it simple.
 
thanks for your information , " why dc " simple i con not afford dcc at the moment , ipicked up 2 dc controllers second hand for £6gb pounds ( about ) $10 , i will keep your comments in mind for my next layout. thanks again
 


That is the way you learn, you make your best choices, and make adjustments. You made a 12 pound investment and you intend to live with it. I still say cut your loses and spend the 120 pounds for the Digitrax Zephyr (or something comparable). By the time you spend your weeks of wiring , buy the wiring (have you priced it lately), relays, more transformers, LED's, switches, etc. you might find you saved a couple pounds. But if you find that you didn't wire it as well as you like and you decide to change it, then you probably won't be ahead of the game.

If you go DCC, you run two wires and that is the end of it. DCC handles all the variations as fast as you can think about them.

By the way, you can use one of your transformers as a DCC controller with the Zephyr so two people can operate at once with no more investment. The other you can use to power your lights, switches, and accessories.

You are starting a project that will cost you 35-70 pounds a square foot by the time it is done. While it is good to save money where you can, don't save now in a way that will cost you later. Start with a good foundation.

Better yet, scale your layout way back, start with a small layout and make your mistakes now. Don't take my word for anything.

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Now on to the DC question.

Now you may wonder why you are not getting a lot of responses. For me, the reason is that since I don't know how you are going to operate, how things are going to move, what your spurs mean, what kind of traffic you intend, etc. I don't have a clue how to advise you.

But that is how you start. You devise an operating plan, and imagine how the trains are going to move. To me, that would be a first step. Once you do that you can start to see how the blocks shape up.

Do that, put in your best guess at how to arrange the blocks, tells us why you did it that way, and then maybe we can help you make adjustments
 
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In addition to Chip's comments, you don't need about three quarters of those "blocks", as long as you use power routing switches. Power will only go to the track the switch is lined for. Peco is one of several popular brands that make power routing switches.
 




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