Wiring Atlas Double-slip turnout???

[trailrider]

I have several Atlas double-slip tunouts with the integral switch machine and insulated frogs. Unlike Shinohara d-s turnouts, which are essentially two turnouts superimposed on each other, which require two switch machines, and which can derail a train moving on a set of points thrown against the oncoming train, the Atlas double-slip will either divert you to an exit route going accross or to a route on the same side of the turnout, depending on which way the points are set )( or X, so it can be handy mechanically.

However, several of my engines, diesel or steam, will stall going over the insulated frog or just across the turnout in general. I can wire insulated single turnouts with insulated frogs by using an Atlas Snap Relay. But this thing has got me stumped.

Anybody know how to run the connections from the frogs to the relay, or relays, if needed)?

 

[Cjcrescent]

Are these from the last set that Atlas offered in the late 1970's to early 80's?

If they are, the only place I ever saw a wiring diagram with one was from the Atlas wiring book from about that time. But I suspect that the problem lies in loose contacts thru the points and along the closure rails, these lie between the frogs and the points. Best way to check them is with a multimeter set to measure voltage. Then you solder jumpers from one stock rail to appropriate closure rails.

Do the points appear riveted to the closure rails or do they appear to attach to the closure rails via a plate underneath the points?

If they are riveted, you can sometimes get by with simply tightening the rivets up some with some light taps with a small hammer and a nail punch on the rivet. Be sure to have a solid support under the rivet when you do this.

If there is just a "plate" small jumpers will need to be soldered between the points and closure rails.

 

[trailrider]

Thanks for the reply. I discovered two things: First, I was feeding the turnout from an adjacent block (I'm using DC for economy and not wanting to convert 43 locomotives!). I had sort of isolated the turnout from two other adjacent blocks. Problem #1, I gapped the wrong end of the turnout!

Once I changed the track connectors from insulated to metal, I discovered a loose connection between one point and its closure rail. I'm just about to solder a jumper wire, but am thinking about connecting the hot side through a SPST/ON-OFF switch on the control panel to allow storing an engine on the stub siding that connects to one side of the turnout.

I have several of these DS turnouts left over from previous layouts. They are... BRASS! I also have some brass flex track on fiber ties that I'm using in my yards. These were left over from my first layout from 50+ years ago! So I have to clean them now and then! Also have some nickel-silver on fiber ties. One thing about fiber ties: they make great fillers at the joints between sections of rail where plastic ties have to be removed to allow rail joiners to be installed. The holes in each individual tie, on both sides of both rails allow spikes to be installed to hold the ends of the rails, and pressure on one side or the other can be used to allign the joints more precisely, until the rails can be soldered, or if soldering is not desired for various reasons.

Again, thanks for the comeback.