which layout would you do

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what do you guys think i should do. i have the option to do either of the following:

1) 4x8 layout
2) l shaped layout - 6x8 30 inches wide this would be approximate i might be able to make it alittle longer.

i am looking at doing modern error and smaller to mid size diesels. i would like to have a complete circle and be able to switch but i have come to the realization that its really tough to accomplish that in a 4x8 and try and keep a radius of 22.

thanks

thomas
 
If you want to be able to run continuous trains you'll have to do a 4x8 in that space, and give up on the wide radius.

If you're ok with just switching I would definitely go with L shaped and all that goodness.
________
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thanks for the response loudmusic. just trying to get a feel for what people out there would do. do you think you could get a pretty could setup into the l-shapped as far as switching goes? maybe a yard on one side and industrial on the other?
 


what do you guys think i should do. i have the option to do either of the following:

1) 4x8 layout
2) l shaped layout - 6x8 30 inches wide this would be approximate i might be able to make it alittle longer.

i am looking at doing modern error and smaller to mid size diesels. i would like to have a complete circle and be able to switch but i have come to the realization that its really tough to accomplish that in a 4x8 and try and keep a radius of 22.

I suspect you are meaning modern ERA (time period), not modern "error" (fault, mistake) :-)

If I wanted a continuous run loop with modern (ie longer) cars and engines on a table, I would certainly not do H0 scale (1:87.1) on a 4x8 foot table.

One option would be N scale (1:160) on a 30" deep x 7 foot long table.

Why N scale and that footprint? For three reasons:

1) Allows wider curves. Turn back loops on a 4 foot (48") deep table means radius < 22". Rule of the thumb for curves : curves should have radius be at least 3 times length of longest rolling stock.

A 60 foot car or engine is 60 feet x 12 inches/foot = 720 inches long.

In H0 scale that is 720"/87.1 = 8.2" --> Curves should be 24" radius

In N scale that is 720"/160 = 4.5" -> Curves should be 13.5" radius

It gets even worse if you are considering longer rolling stock - like 80 or 89 foot cars - essentially multiply radii above with 1.5 for 90 foot cars, ie 36" radius for H0 scale and 20" radius for N scale.

2) Reach and floor space - you cannot easily reach across 4 feet of layout from one side of the table. So you need more floor space for a 4 foot deep layout - allowing access to the rear end as well - either a 2" aisle down along the back end, or more available floor space in front of the layout, so you can pull it forward to get behind it.

A 4x8 foot layout really needs 8 x 10 feet of floor space, allowing 2 feet aisles on three sides of it. It basically uses all available floor space in a small spare bedroom - not much chance of also using the room for other purposes.

A 3 x 7 foot layout needs an aisle along the front, and that's it - you can reach across 30" of layout if you have too. So floor space need is 4 1/2 feet by 7 feet.

3) You have room for a lot more in terms of buildings, spurs etc - 30" x 7 feet in N scale is the equivalent of about 4.5 x 12.5 feet in H0 scale.

But you also have other options. It all depends on what you want to do. You can do a loop all around the walls of a room (or a doughnut shaped layout on tables surrounding a central operator pit), with yourself operating the layout from inside the pit.

Main advantages :

- only needs a central aisle,

- can have shelves above and below layout for storage etc, maybe a work bench under the layout,

- curves can be _far_ wider - since only quarter circles will be on the corners of the layout, not half circles with the center of the circle on the table

- you will be looking out at curves instead of in at curves (so the overhang of cars on sharp curves won't look as crappy),

- better visual separation of scenes - instead of the train first passing through the scene next to you and then heading back in the opposite direction at the back of the layout seconds later, the train will e.g come into your field of view from the left, go through the scene and go out to a new scene towards the right.

Lots of ways doing things. Normal recommendation for fitting a layout into a room:

- Draw the entire room (not just a rectangle for the layout). You will need to consider how your layout will work in the room - aisles/access, viewblocks etc.

- Start by deciding what you want to model, not by deciding how big your rectangles should be.

Important design considerations is stuff like whether you need/want a continuous run option, long rolling stock, focus on switching or running and quite a few other things.

Once you know what you want to model, you can look at how to fit it into the room in some more or less sensible way.

This is e.g. how I fitted a H0 scale switching layout into the room I had available - a 6.5 x 11.5 foot basement storage room with a chimney base in one corner:

warehouse67b.jpg


Not a given that this particular configuration (doughnut style layout) will work for you. But it illustrates that it is not a given that the only option for continuous run will be a loop of track on a rectangular table.

The smaller the space you have available, the more creative you will need to get to fit in a layout.

If your layout will replace a ping-pong table in the middle of the floor of a basement den, and you absolutely want H0 scale and continuous run on a table, go 5 x 9 feet instead of 4 x 8. Will take 9 x 11 feet of floor space, but will also give you far much better curve radii.

If it needs to fit into a smaller room - consider narrow shelves around the walls.

But start by describing the room you want to put the layout into, and what you want to be able to do on your layout. I.e. your givens and wishes.

Smile,
Stein
 
And yeah - of course you can do an interesting switching setup in 14 feet of linear space - say 18-24" deep.

Here is one H0 scale plan (based on an N scale track plan called San Jose Switcher by Byron Henderson) in 18" deep and 9 feet long:
san_jose_H0.jpg


Here is a 10 x 2 feet plan based on Jonathan Jones "Mid-Atlantic and Western" from Model Railroader 2002:

midatlantic2.jpg



Here is a 14" deep by 8 feet long plan based on "Shortliner" Jack Trollope's Ness Street Yard:

ness_street.jpg


Here is a 16 foot long (including staging) plan called Cascade Mills I made a while back for another poster:
cascade_mills02.jpg


Another design:
taylor02.jpg


Lots of options for a shelf switching layout along two walls of a room, even in H0 scale. In N scale, you have a _lot_ of room for a switching layout down two walls of your average room.

Smile,
Stein
 
Thanks for the information Stein.

I want to use HO, i dont like N scale i think its too small....imho. Plus i already have some rolling stock and engines. I started with a 4x8 and setup the track and did some test runs on it and while i liked having the ability for a continuous run, i also want to be able to switch and have a small yard. I realize i cannot have everything so i am starting to rethink whether i want to switch to an L shaped layout to start with. The room i will be putting it into is very large but its a multipurpose room so i only have enough room for a 4x8 or someone along the wall that could be expanded into a around the room layout like the one you show. I dont mind having smaller rolling stock and smaller engines. i accepted that one for the 4x8 and i dont mind having shorter length trains.

I do intend to expand the layout in the future when space allows. i dont want a prototype railroad, but i do intend to take aspects of the area i live in and incorporate that into the layout. My goal now is to build something that i can learn with since i am new to MR and something that can provide alot of enjoyment.
 
great examples. the more i think about it the more i realize i need to think bigger picture. while settling for a 4x8 with a little bit of everything would be fun for alittle bit, i have read alot of post online where people quickly "out grow" that and want more. i think going the L shape would be best. Now i need to work on my givens and wishes, then start designing, maybe i can incorporate some of the local yard in richmond call acca yard or fulton yard.
 
Everyone needs to think bigger ;)

I slowly came to realize that anything I can reasonably build in my current house and keep the wife happy won't be good enough for me, so I've decided to not start a private layout in my current home. Definitely something to consider. But if you can't find a club you enjoy that is in reasonable driving distance you might be back to designing your own.
________
Itching
 
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The room i will be putting it into is very large but its a multipurpose room so i only have enough room for a 4x8 or someone along the wall that could be expanded into a around the room layout like the one you show.

I'd still suggest making a drawing of the entire room.

It is quite possible that someone else can make a suggestion you perhaps have not yet have considered - like taking a 6 x 10 foot space from a corner of your room and doing a U shaped layout, with two wings of the U along the walls, and the third wing on a detachable table sticking out into the room. Remove and store table when you need more floor space for other functions in the room.

Or something - it all depends on what you want to do and how your space is configured :-)

Smile,
Stein
 
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Everyone needs to think bigger ;)

I slowly came to realize that anything I can reasonably build in my current house and keep the wife happy won't be good enough for me, so I've decided to not start a private layout in my current home. Definitely something to consider. But if you can't find a club you enjoy that is in reasonable driving distance you might be back to designing your own.

Just nitpicking a little - "thinking bigger picture" is not necessarily the same as "thinking bigger layout".

Thinking bigger picture implies first doing what Byron Henderson called a "conceptual design phase" in the latest issue of the Layout Design Journal.

Putting away the track plan drawing tool and spending more time first on thinking about what you really want to model. Figuring out the theme, era, vision and concept of your layout.

Thinking about how you want to experience the layout - both in terms of looks and operations. What signature elements you want to include. How the area (prototypical or made up) you are modeling fits into a bigger world.

A good place to start thinking about these things is reading quickly through Byron's posts about Track Plan Analysis on his blog.

But sure - we all would like to have a warehouse, lots of cash and lots of time to work on a layout :-)

Grin,
Stein
 
what would you design the room with? is there a good free tool?

For drawing a room?

- Pen, paper, ruler and a digital camera or combined printer/scanner - low tech, but works very well :-)
- Microsoft paint (assuming you are on a computer running Microsoft Windows)
- IKEA web site, kitchen cabinet planning tool
- Google sketchup
- Any vector drawing program
- Any track plan drawing package, using the draw lines feature

Whatever is easiest for you. Doesn't have to be a fancy CAD plan. The most important is getting the dimensions marked off right, and showing other uses of the room your layout must co-exist with.

Smile,
Stein
 




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