Weaver Santa Fe "Blue goose" O Scale 3 Rail Engine and Tender


TrainDad89

New Member
Hello!

I am new to this forum, but have signed up to help my 11 year old son who is a HUGE train enthusiast figure out how to run this engine on our track... This has been very overwhelming to say the least in trying to figure out where to go, who to talk to, what to buy, and how to do all of it in order to get this engine to run. It's the 3460 4-6-4 model, has reverse lockout controls (even though I don't have a clue what this means) and a "QSI DCRU" Tender...I think...

This Train is nothing like the o scale Lionel Polar Express train we have that came with a little wireless bluetooth controller and a set of 3 rail fastrack... that thing sets up and runs so easily, but this Blue Goose is VERY different...something I hadn't really anticipated.

We tried to use a CW-80 transformer to run it...but that didn't work... all that happened as you throttled up was that it kind of buzzed and the lights came on, but no sounds and nothing happened. We even tried to run the Polar express with it... and still no luck. Thanking it was a defective transformer, we returned it and purchased a MTH Z-1000, New in the box, and still have the same result... no train movement, no sounds...just sits there... I know the track is good and connected, because if I run the Polar express with its own controller, it runs flawlessly... but then switching to the Z-1000, nothing for both trains... I've check and double checked that the wiring is correct...that's hard to mess up as we purchased wiring direct from lionel made for o scale for this track.

I am now looking in to buy some sort of Dc/DCC controller combo in hopes it would run the Blue Goose. I know the polar express is an AC engine... but I don't have a clue on the Blue Goose... I don't know if the train is defective, or what. It looks new and with the top cover off the engine, it looks untouched and brand new and the motor drive shaft moves freely so I know it's not locked up.

What can I do to get this train running for my son? he's been so patient and its been a month wince we received it for his birthday last month. please help! haha I don't know what to do.
 
TrainDad89,

Remain calm, don't panic. :)
Start with the owner's manual that came with the set.
Go from there.
Interwebs says the model and brand you have is highly collectible.
Yay!!
Keep it all very simple as you start out.
Looking forward to pics and stuff.
 

Factory box says it operates on O-54 track with any AC Transformer.
 
First of all, welcome aboard TrainDad. I know nothing regarding modern Lionel equipment, but Louis (Bruette) will eventually see this post and he is our resident expert in Lionel products.
My dad owned and ran an extensive Lionel collection from his first train set in 1937 until his passing in 2005. He still had the 1937 set and it still ran. From what I remember, all engines had something called an "E-unit", essentially a reversing device. Perhaps what you posted as "reverse lockout controls" is the same more modern term. If so, his older equipment could easily be in the "neutral" position, if one of us kids fiddled around enough!;) Check out the owners manual for the Blue Goose to see how it operates.
 

Factory box says it operates on O-54 track with any AC Transformer.
Would it perhaps be the track were using as to why it doesn't run (assuming the engine is in working condition)? We're using Lionel Fastrack that I think is 0-27... so I'm looking into buying an 0-57 kit.
 
Would it perhaps be the track were using as to why it doesn't run (assuming the engine is in working condition)? We're using Lionel Fastrack that I think is 0-27... so I'm looking into buying an 0-57 kit.
Well, apparently 0-54 refers to the curved sections of track. A complete section gives a radius of 54".
I didn't know that.
 
Hey TrainDad89! Welcome to the forums. We should have a medal or something for Dads helping their kids with trains, well done!

Would it perhaps be the track were using as to why it doesn't run (assuming the engine is in working condition)?
It's not the track. I'm assuming you are using the track from your Polar Express set (Lionel O-31 FasTrack) Your Weaver locomotive should move. But it will have troubles in the curve as the O-31 is too tight for a locomotive requiring a minimum curve of O-54. But everything should work on the straight sections.

I'm looking into buying an 0-57 kit.
If you are looking for Lionel FasTrack you will need O-60 curves. Lionel makes O-31, O48, O60, O72, O84 and O96 in their FasTrack line.

assuming the engine is in working condition
As Willie said, my focus is Lionel. I have zero experience with Weaver locomotives, but I suspect you have a defective locomotive. My first thoughts are; where did you buy it, and can you get an exchange/refund?

If not, don't worry, we have some other O-Gauge experts who are better than me at diagnostics and repair.

In the meantime, you can try cleaning the wheels and pickups to see if that helps.

@Dub - @Mixed Freight - @Iron Horseman
 
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Some basic information.

O-Gauge:​

Lionel O-Gauge track systems- which include O, O-27, and FasTrack® - all measure 1-¼” between the outer rails. Any O-Gauge car or locomotive can ride on Lionel O-Gauge track, as long as the curve track used on your layout can accommodate your particular cars. Lionel O-Gauge sets are electric sets that are approximately 1:48 scale and are what most people envision when they think about Lionel. O-Gauge is divided into two categories: Traditional O-Gauge and O-Scale.
Traditional O-Gauge
  • Based on classic Lionel designs
  • Approximate scale proportions
  • Easy to control lights, sounds, and smoke
  • Very accessible products to customers
  • Lionel’s popular Ready-to-Run sets are Traditional O-Gauge and contain everything a customer needs to run their train in minutes – train set, oval of track, and transformer.
  • Lionel launched a new remote system for engines in 2012 under the LionChief™ umbrella. These are new sets with enhanced sound, long distance controls, AC/DC Compatible and are easy to set-up and operate
  • To allow customers to continue to add product, Lionel sells specialty track products, rolling stock, and a wide range of operating and non-operating accessories
O Scale
  • Higher-end products
  • Contain more details with many separately applied parts
  • Engines have sophisticated electronics such as the Lionel LEGACY™ Control System and Lionel RailSounds®
  • Larger than Traditional O-gauge products since they are more true to 1:48 scale proportions
  • Geared towards collectors and sophisticated hobbyists
 
Somehow I missed this thread over the weekend. Any update on Status?
I am new to this forum, but have signed up to help my 11 year old son who is a HUGE train enthusiast figure out how to run this engine on our track... This has been very overwhelming to say the least in trying to figure out where to go, who to talk to, what to buy, and how to do all of it in order to get this engine to run. It's the 3460 4-6-4 model, has reverse lockout controls (even though I don't have a clue what this means) and a "QSI DCRU" Tender..
Wow that is an amazing looking locomotive.


We tried to use a CW-80 transformer to run it...but that didn't work... all that happened as you throttled up was that it kind of buzzed and the lights came on, but no sounds and nothing happened.
As Santa Fe Willie said, that sounds like an e-unit is stuck in neutral position. Somewhere there should be a manual lever that you can move to unlock it so it can move into a forward or reverse position.

We even tried to run the Polar express with it... and still no luck.
What normally powered the Polar Express?

Thanking it was a defective transformer, we returned it and purchased a MTH Z-1000, New in the box, and still have the same result... no train movement, no sounds...just sits there... I know the track is good and connected, because if I run the Polar express with its own controller, it runs flawlessly... but then switching to the Z-1000, nothing for both trains...
More hummm, but once again what normally powers the Polar Express it doesn't have an on-board battery does it?


I am now looking in to buy some sort of Dc/DCC controller combo in hopes it would run the Blue Goose. I know the polar express is an AC engine... but I don't have a clue on the Blue Goose... I don't know if the train is defective, or what. It looks new and with the top cover off the engine, it looks untouched and brand new and the motor drive shaft moves freely so I know it's not locked up.
I would not do that. Nothing in picture of the box that OLD97 posted says anything about DCC. It does say "any AC Transformer".

Also like Bruette said, it should move on straight track regardless.
 
Sorry I haven't seen this thread sooner. Been nursing a miserable cold for the past 3 days.

Looking at the pic's from the Trainz Website (Thanks Old 97!), they included pic's from the ends of the Weaver box. Noted amongst the various features for the loco are "Precision DC Can Motor" and "DCRU Electronic Reverse Unit by QSI". This will be a more modern O-gauge Loco than earlier Lionel locos with Pullmor AC motors and E-units (Electric reverse units). But just like the older Lionel locos, you will still need to power this Weaver loco with AC power, as the electronic circuit board takes care of converting the AC current to DC for the motor, the reverse unit, and any other feature requiring DC.

The Blue Goose should run just fine on any 3-rail, O-gauge track, but the curves must be O-54 minimum. In the O-gauge world, curve sizes refer to the diameter of the circle, and not the radius, as they do in N-scale and HO scale. For Lionel Fastrack, you will need to use O-60 curves minimum, as their next size smaller is O-48 (too small). Some other track brands do offer O-54 curved track, if that is a necessity due to space requirements.

Your Polar Express is an even more modern loco yet. It MAY be able to run on a conventional transformer, such as a CW-80 or an MTH Z-1000, but if it can, there could be a slide switch located somewhere on the loco (underneath, or in the cab, or ???) that must be set for either conventional or remote operation. You might try reading through the instructions for this loco if you have them, and see what they say.

As far as your Blue Goose goes, it should run fine with a conventional transformer. Not sure why it merely buzzes when trying to run it. Maybe the loco has sat for a long time and the grease in the gear box has dried up, thereby stalling the motor? Or the reverse unit itself has gone bad? Unfortunately, I've never worked on one of these particular locos, so I can't say for sure. Nor am I well versed in electronics, so I can't help much in that department, either. If you think you can tackle it, you might try removing both the loco shell and the tender shell and poking around the inner workings and see what you can figure out. Short of that, you would need to find someone that could do that for you. You might see if there are any other O-gaugers around your locality that might take a look at it for you. Hopefully it ends up being something simple, and you can get it running in short order.

Hope this helps a little.
 
That is a problem I have seen several times with locomotives that have been sitting for extended periods of time.

I hope you are feeling better Paul!
If this is the case... what might the remedy be? And wouldn't we be able to hear the sounds regardless even without it moving? It makes me think there might be a bigger issue at hand and requires someone skilled in the repair of O-scale engines and tenders to render it usable once again. Do you guys know of any reputable repair guys for O-scale engines like this Blue goose?
 
Take it apart and clean the solidified grease off the gears. Re-lub with fresh.
Exactly!

Sometimes you can cheat and use a drop or two of lightweight synthetic oil on the old grease. I try that just to see if I can get the locomotive moving. Sometimes it works, but either way I eventually end up cleaning and re-lube. Just to do it right.

I re-lube with synthetic grease. Check back with me in a few years and I'll let you know if it has solved the problem. I've been using all synthetics since I started doing maintenance in 2013. So far, so good!

Always make sure the lubes are safe for plastics.
 
I'm waiting to call back a repair guy in Illinois at the moment (I'm in southern Indiana). Last week he was busy so I'll get in touch with him hopefully by the end of the week. Hopefully I can get this train going before Christmas...I took off the shell again and looked through it as meticulously as possible and still no obvious signs as to why its not working... no signs of electrical shorts anywhere, No dried up grease anywhere, gear box looks great, pistons and wheels all clean of debris and oiled, motor shaft turns....BUT....when I move the motor shaft manually by hand, the wheels only barely move. Just a hair and hardly noticeable unless your looking really close. it sounds like a failed motor...which is a type of rs-550, because that whining/groaning/humming sound seems to be coming from there when it's on a straight track and hooked up to power. My concern is that even though it doesn't move, with power I am still getting no sounds from the tender at all, so hopefully it doesn't need a new soundboard as well to get it in working new condition once again.
 
I took off the shell again and looked through it as meticulously as possible and still no obvious signs as to why its not working... no signs of electrical shorts anywhere, No dried up grease anywhere, gear box looks great, pistons and wheels all clean of debris and oiled, motor shaft turns....BUT....when I move the motor shaft manually by hand, the wheels only barely move. Just a hair and hardly noticeable unless your looking really close. it sounds like a failed motor...which is a type of rs-550, because that whining/groaning/humming sound seems to be coming from there when it's on a straight track and hooked up to power. My concern is that even though it doesn't move, with power I am still getting no sounds from the tender at all, so hopefully it doesn't need a new soundboard as well to get it in working new condition once again.
That is not good news. I wish I was more familiar with that specific model.
 
Question, and this is me just not knowing enough about all of these things.... BUT... if the tender were perhaps defective, would it cause the engine to not work properly in some cases?
That is not good news. I wish I was more familiar with that specific model.
Exactly!

Sometimes you can cheat and use a drop or two of lightweight synthetic oil on the old grease. I try that just to see if I can get the locomotive moving. Sometimes it works, but either way I eventually end up cleaning and re-lube. Just to do it right.

I re-lube with synthetic grease. Check back with me in a few years and I'll let you know if it has solved the problem. I've been using all synthetics since I started doing maintenance in 2013. So far, so good!

Always make sure the lubes are safe for plastics.
Hope this helps a little.
 
Question, and this is me just not knowing enough about all of these things.... BUT... if the tender were perhaps defective, would it cause the engine to not work properly in some cases?
I'm not familiar with your locomotive or tender. I can say some tenders are where the sound comes from, but I don't know how it could keep the locomotive from running. Unless there was a short in the tender. You can try running the locomotive without the tender and see if the problem is the same.
 



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