Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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Hi Tom, Here is that group of cars I will be "fading down". As you can see, these are all old timers. All I have is rattle cans and paint, NO airbrush so this is what I am trying:

1. Remove and paint trucks (done)
2. give cars a coat of dull coat
3. Use a white wash to fade the cars. Maybe a little dust around the bottom/front/back
4. A little soot at the top, from the coal steam

I dull coated one side, will be doing the other side tonight then maybe wait till the weekend to experiment with the white wash.

You can see some of the cars have been tinkered with a little. This is my first experience at "batch weathering".

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Most of these are Roundhouse, but I kept the trucks separate anyway. May be a week or so before I post the progress...

Dave LASM
 
Hi Tom, Here is that group of cars I will be "fading down". As you can see, these are all old timers. All I have is rattle cans and paint, NO airbrush so this is what I am trying:

1. Remove and paint trucks (done)
2. give cars a coat of dull coat
3. Use a white wash to fade the cars. Maybe a little dust around the bottom/front/back
4. A little soot at the top, from the coal steam

I dull coated one side, will be doing the other side tonight then maybe wait till the weekend to experiment with the white wash.

You can see some of the cars have been tinkered with a little. This is my first experience at "batch weathering".

View attachment 186766

Most of these are Roundhouse, but I kept the trucks separate anyway. May be a week or so before I post the progress...

Dave LASM
Dave

Have fun and follow your plan

You should be able to do the other side of the car roughly 1/2 hour after you spray it. Depends a lot on atmospheric conditions in the space you are working on. If you are uncomfortable about the 1/2 hour for sure 1 hour and at worst in 2 hours everything should be thoroughly dry. But your plan is fine and as long as your comfortable that’s what counts

Enjoy the process
 
Dave

Have fun and follow your plan

You should be able to do the other side of the car roughly 1/2 hour after you spray it. Depends a lot on atmospheric conditions in the space you are working on. If you are uncomfortable about the 1/2 hour for sure 1 hour and at worst in 2 hours everything should be thoroughly dry. But your plan is fine and as long as your comfortable that’s what counts

Enjoy the process
Thanks, Tom. I was going to do what you said, exactly what I was thinking, but wife persuaded me to wait. I guess it didn't hurt but next time I will move forward without asking the wife -- kind of a bad habit I got in, trying to include her in my model tasks. Honestly, she is not that interested but does sometimes does feign interest .

Worst part is when she wants to touch stuff on the layout. She is like an 8 year old with some super clumsy fingers. I cringe everytime she reaches in there.

Dave LASM
 
Thanks, Tom. I was going to do what you said, exactly what I was thinking, but wife persuaded me to wait. I guess it didn't hurt but next time I will move forward without asking the wife -- kind of a bad habit I got in, trying to include her in my model tasks. Honestly, she is not that interested but does sometimes does feign interest .

Worst part is when she wants to touch stuff on the layout. She is like an 8 year old with some super clumsy fingers. I cringe everytime she reaches in there.

Dave LASM
Terry is my most ardent supporter and my worst critic. I will occasionally ask her to look at something for an opinion. But, sometimes she will pop into the studio and tell me something about what I am weathering. Usually that she’s not feeling it, her words for it’s not looking good!
 
Has anyone tried the Atom paint line from Ammo by Mig?

Has anyone tried the Ammo Dio Drybrush paint line?

I’ve started using the Ammo Rail Center paints, the streaking brushes, the oilerbrushes and really like them. So thought I’d ask about the above paint lines.

My normal paints for custom work is the Vallejo series of Aryclics, Model Air, Game Air, Model Color and Panzer Aces. I use Tamiya Arcylics for my base coats. But, for my own stuff I use Abteilung502 oils over a base coat of Tamiya.

I feel I’m getting I tired of the same type of results from the Aryclics

I’m looking for something different than oils and have been experimenting with the Ammo Rail Center. Watching videos on You Tube all say they are just wonderful, super, tremendous paints. The usual propaganda

Any thoughts as the Dio Drybrush stuff really intrigue me
 


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Sorry folks for posting later than I wanted, but I've been busy with work and getting ready around the house for summer!

I just finished up on side 2 of this car, I might have pushed it a little harder on this side!

All in all, I'm happy with it. Trying to get into the knack of hand painting graffiti, man is it tuff. But starting small and getting larger as I progress might be the way to go!

Cheers!
Z
 
Hi
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Sorry folks for posting later than I wanted, but I've been busy with work and getting ready around the house for summer!

I just finished up on side 2 of this car, I might have pushed it a little harder on this side!

All in all, I'm happy with it. Trying to get into the knack of hand painting graffiti, man is it tuff. But starting small and getting larger as I progress might be the way to go!

Cheers!
Z
Z, we keep no timetables here. Post along your weathering process anytime you want, or later! While the 2 CN covered hoppers have never been seen in this thread before they were weathered a few years ago. The modeler that commissioned them lost interest in model railroading before they were done told me to keep them. I was doing publicity shots and a modeler in Montreal saw them in the background on my FB page. Similar to the inquiries I’ve had on the 2 graffitied reefers in the background of the pictures I posted here
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These went to the post office this morning
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Even when faded it was still to pink! Tamiya white thinned 20% paint and 80% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA 91% concentration) on 1st 3 sprays. Let dry a couple days. Then a matte clear coat of Tamiya xf86. Decided with the client to fade some more, 30% white to 70% IPA. 2 sprays and we called it good

The roof is Vallejo Air, dark earth 50/50 mix thinned with water

Side sills and front and back panels (not shown) is a USA Dark Earth from Vallejo Air thinned 50/50 with water and at PSI pressure of 16. The matte clear coat is again Tamiya xf86

In person it really looks good, every Proto picture showed graffiti and tags but this client does not like either!

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This was faded with Tamiya xf 2 (?)White. The mix was 20% white, 10% xf86 flat clear and 70% Tamiya x20a thinner.

The side body sill grime is Vallejo Air dark earth brushed on as a wash maybe 40/60 mix with water. I eye balled it the mixture

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Fade coat on this car is Vallejo Air Sand applied by brush as a strong wash 50/50 thinned with water with a few drops of IPA mixed in. A few scratches and spots are from Panzer Aces dark rust, applied 100%. The roof and the body of the car was airbrushed using Vallejo’s light orange rust thinned with Vallejo thinner 90% paint 10% thinner. The kick up spray on this car is NATO Brown straight no thinner with the air brush set at 21 psi

The matte clear coat was VMS matte clear varnish only applied to seal the car. There are no other matte clear coats on this car.
 
Ok, I’m kind of bored and have mentioned it few times. A client sent me a project that I decided to tackle today. A KIT, yep a KIT.
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I do follow instructions (usually) for kits and have on this.
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Previously cut off the sprue parts (someone else) were repaired. The balance of the parts were cut off the sprue. Gluing has begun and I should pictures tonight
 
Ok, I’m kind of bored and have mentioned it few times. A client sent me a project that I decided to tackle today. A KIT, yep a KIT.
View attachment 186991

I do follow instructions (usually) for kits and have on this.
View attachment 186992

Previously cut off the sprue parts (someone else) were repaired. The balance of the parts were cut off the sprue. Gluing has begun and I should pictures tonight

Ahhh yes.... the kit, kind of brings a tear to my eye. Not really! Been there, I've assembled 3 Intermountain hopper kits years back and a 4th is still waiting in the que for it's turn.... which will probably never happen. They almost put me in the nut house!🥴
Have fun Tom!

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Ahhh yes.... the kit, kind of brings a tear to my eye. Not really! Been there, I've assembled 3 Intermountain hopper kits years back and a 4th is still waiting in the que for it's turn.... which will probably never happen. They almost put me in the nut house!🥴
Have fun Tom!

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It wasn’t bad at all. I’m letting the glue dry and will put the body on the frame tonight. Trying to decide if I weather this (as a surprise gift) one or not. Maybe a nice light gray dust. Private road name that the friend purchased. Midland Roads is from Tony Koester’s (former editor of RMC and a contributor still at MRR magazine) layout!
 




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