Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread


Very Nice, I have some hopper


Nice! I have a bunch of hoppers that have been wanting some attention!

Z
Thank you. I have a thread Grain train build page 5 in the Painting, Detailing, and Weathering. Plus there are some other pics in this thread that folks have added to give you an idea of how they were done.
 
Hey Tom,
Question re your oil paint drying time?
I am using Blue label Turpenoid as the thinning agent for my oils, washes, pin washes etc…what are you using?
Usually I can work on the car within an hour of the oil application.
Eg. Spray XF-86 over the oil work etc…the Turpenoid I believe acts as a drying agent..it evaporates very quickly
Dave
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I am avoiding the weathering bench so far today. There has been no desire to do anything in the modeling category yesterday and so far today.

I use an odorless mineral spirit ( brand not remembered) but I will venture to the bench and get some pictures of the can I have.

If I use the dehydrator (on medium speed) the oils are usually dry in 3 hours, if I don’t use the dehydrator maybe 12 to 18 hours . I am using Abteilung502 oils and I put a dab on a piece of uncoated cardboard to leach out the oil for about 30 minutes. I then create a wash. Put some of the oil paint into a cup and add the odorless mineral spirits.
 
While the mojo for weathering seems to be on vacation I still need to get some stuff done

Today I have 21 well cars I can start on. Inspect, remove the truck sets, clean and spray the first matte clear coat





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4 Kato 3 car sets and 9 individual Walthers well cars
 
Tom,
I used to use mineral spirits.. still have some…use MS when the Turpenoid runs out
An armour modeller recommended the blue label Turpenoid..
I used to pre-dab the oils on cardboard to soak up the oil…
I forgot to do it somewhere along the line, and to be honest now I can’t tell the difference..or if makes a difference…
If I give a boxcar an oil wash or panel line work I can seal the oils with a clear coat in about an hour no probs
Dave

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I have decided to go steam punk
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I am advised by the well known modeller April Loof that it is all the rage
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And she promised a full straight spread in her magazine jacket
She got her words mixed up and said she would get me in her straight jacket but I know what she meant
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She mentioned a mask like the figures too…..cool or what
 

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Tom,
I used to use mineral spirits.. still have some…use MS when the Turpenoid runs out
An armour modeller recommended the blue label Turpenoid..
I used to pre-dab the oils on cardboard to soak up the oil…
I forgot to do it somewhere along the line, and to be honest now I can’t tell the difference..or if makes a difference…
If I give a boxcar an oil wash or panel line work I can seal the oils with a clear coat in about an hour no probs
Dave

View attachment 185273

A few questions, if I may:

1. Do you (either of you) spray oils? I’m looking at doing certain fades or color tweaks with oils. Or do you wash the car body down with mineral spirits/turpenoid, and do a “dot fade”, counting on mineral spirits’ tendency to spread all over creation?

2. I’ve read that dot fades are done over clear flat (promotes spread of mineral spirits) and do pin washes/line washes over gloss (apparently to reduce “capillary” action and thereby keep the wash localized). Do you guys approach it this way?

3. What is turpenoid, that mineral spirits are not?
 
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A few questions, if I may:

1. Do you (either of you) spray oils? I’m looking at doing certain fades or color tweaks with oils. Or do you wash the car body down with mineral spirits/turpenoid, and do a “dot fade”, counting on mineral spirits’ tendency to spread all over creation?

2. I’ve read that dot fades are done over clear flat (promotes spread of mineral spirits) and do pin washes/line washes over gloss (apparently to reduce “capillary” action and thereby keep the wash localized). Do you guys approach it this way?

3. What is turpenoid, that mineral spirits are not?
1. I have not sprayed oils

2a. I have done oil dot fades with both gloss and matte finishes 1st applied. Honestly, I didn’t notice if there was any difference. I am not a big user of the dot fade but I only use oils on my own equipment

2b. for panel lining I gloss coat 1st then panel line then a matte clear

2c. I clean models a couple different ways but have never used mineral spirits for cleaning.

I use Isopropyl Alcohol in either the 70% or 91% concentration. 99% is too hard for me to purchase locally so when I do I hoard it for stripping use…

About 25% of the time and with ALL tankers I will clean with dawn dish soap and hot water. Rinsing with hot water.

I clean truck frames and wheel faces with Isopropyl Alcohol and a tooth brush

3. I have never purchased or even seen odorless turpenoid that I am aware of, so I can’t answer you on this one
 
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I have inspected, cleaned and added a clear finish to the 21 well cars I posted above.

The 9 single well cars are going to be graffitied and tagged. Those I sprayed with a VMS gloss varnish as I will be using decals for the graffiti.

I will custom tag the cars after they are weathered and a matte clear finish is added. After the tagging I will spray another matte clear finish

The other 12 cars were sprayed with Tamiya xf86 flat clear
 
I don’t spray oils…
I fade using Tamiya Flat White…thinned to the max
My oils 99% of the time are going over the flat fade coat…sometimes directly applied from the tube or in varying dilution with blue lable Turpenoid
Turpenoid is sold in art supply stores…
Mineral Spirit is sold in hardware stores..
(Sorry I can’t go into the chemistry of each product … just I find one easier to work with)

PS. Once I had mineral spirits attack/melt the plastic under the paint on a Dragon tank kit… never had Turpenoid react this way

💥 Forgot to add an IMPORTANT difference:
946 ml of Home Depot Solvable Brand Mineral Spirits is $9.97 🇨🇦
946 ml of De Serre Turpenoid is $31.99 🇨🇦
$7.34 🇺🇸 vs $23.57 🇺🇸
 
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I have decided to go steam punk
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I am advised by the well known modeller April Loof that it is all the rage
View attachment 185277View attachment 185277
View attachment 185278And she promised a full straight spread in her magazine jacket
She got her words mixed up and said she would get me in her straight jacket but I know what she meant
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She mentioned a mask like the figures too…..cool or what
Jaz
Love the colors, the mix, heck everything about this
 
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So I mostly finished up on side "A".... I didn't go full bore on the car being totally beat up as these cars can suffer some pretty severe road wear and tear. I took it to a comfortable level.

I did the rust streaking using powders this time. I typically use oils for streaking but I watched one of Dansrailroad2011 videos on rust streaking a while back with powders and water. It turned out ok, I found that the powder after drying can be later worked up and altered as Dan mentioned, but on a painted car such as this ( the fade coat of paint ) and also that this is a light colored car also, that this does stain and is very difficult to remove. For his demonstration he had used a car that was like a deep C&O Blue if I can recall and was being applied to a factory painted car which the paint is much more robust and might not be prone to staining as this was. All that being said, I just had to be careful on where and how much of the powder/water I was laying down.

I also added a very light, light Vallejo Model Air wash of Burnt Umber, just to tone down the fade a smidge.

I then added oils to the roof and top edges (door tracks) along both sides of the car with a sponge... just stippling it along the edges and the top of the roof panels with burnt umber and sienna.
With some Burnt Umber again, I stippled some light surface rust on the side panel on the PC logo and ends of the car.
Also followed up with some pastel weathering along the lower door rails, doors and the bottom edge of the sidewall.
I also added some rust patches on the side wall of the car with some Vallejo Model Air paint full strength, and did the streaking with some powders.
This is the first time I have attempted free handing some graffiti with some ultra fine "Sharpie" oil paint markers... so take it easy on me!

Cheers.
Z
 
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So I mostly finished up on side "A".... I didn't go full bore on the car being totally beat up as these cars can suffer some pretty severe road wear and tear. I took it to a comfortable level.

I did the rust streaking using powders this time. I typically use oils for streaking but I watched one of Dansrailroad2011 videos on rust streaking a while back with powders and water. It turned out ok, I found that the powder after drying can be later worked up and altered as Dan mentioned, but on a painted car such as this ( the fade coat of paint ) and also that this is a light colored car also, that this does stain and is very difficult to remove. For his demonstration he had used a car that was like a deep C&O Blue if I can recall and was being applied to a factory painted car which the paint is much more robust and might not be prone to staining as this was. All that being said, I just had to be careful on where and how much of the powder/water I was laying down.

I also added a very light, light Vallejo Model Air wash of Burnt Umber, just to tone down the fade a smidge.

I then added oils to the roof and top edges (door tracks) along both sides of the car with a sponge... just stippling it along the edges and the top of the roof panels with burnt umber and sienna.
With some Burnt Umber again, I stippled some light surface rust on the side panel on the PC logo and ends of the car.
Also followed up with some pastel weathering along the lower door rails, doors and the bottom edge of the sidewall.
I also added some rust patches on the side wall of the car with some Vallejo Model Air paint full strength, and did the streaking with some powders.
This is the first time I have attempted free handing some graffiti with some ultra fine "Sharpie" oil paint markers... so take it easy on me!

Cheers.
Z
The car looks great. Thanks for explaining your process.
 



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