Sure thing and thank you.The last steel scrap load I built the pictures of the build were terrible so those are deleted.
1. I determine the load. You say, No s..t Sherlock! But, I build pipe, aluminum billets, steel scrap architectural shapes, steel coil and real steel shavings for metal scrap loads for gondolas and some of those for flat cars
2. for the steel scrap load, I take a sheet of Evergreen .060 thick sheet #9060 for the gondola loads built the past week and cut it to fit into the loading bay of the gondola minus a couple scale feet.
(other thicknesses will work but I have 20 sheets left from a tilt-up wall panel warehouse build that I over purchased)
To test fit I put the still unpainted piece into the gondola bay, when I turn the gondola over the styrene strip should fall out
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3. I then cut some, or use scraps I have of .250x.250 #199 solid strips also from Evergreen and glue 7 pieces on the underside of the scrap load base. 1 piece the length down the middle and 3 pieces on each side making the sheet balanced when in the gondola
4. I then will sloppily hand paint the unseen underneath portion with black arcylic. The upper base itself gets a dark umber #71.040 of Vallejo Air or #302 dark rust from the Panzer Aces line from Vallejo. I prefer to hand brush Vallejo Air as it dries my airbrush tip way too often. This layer is full strength no dilution with water. I also will use Hull Red from Tamiya but cut 50% with Isopropyl Alcohol and I will use the airbrush for that. I hadn’t picked up an airbrush since the late 70’s until last week when I started practicing. In the picture above that is Tamiya Hull Red after practice. I have 8 more bases created using 4 Vallejo and 4 of the Tamiya. I may not be the best but I am efficient
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5. my steel scrap shavings were sent to me by a Facebook friend in Ohio. The local metal shops in my area would not even sell me a coffee pail full as I did offer to pay. I set them out for a week or so after putting them in a emptied and cleaned peanut butter jar filled with 70oz Isopropyl alcohol shaken every day for a week.
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This removes the oils. Setting them out will oxidize some thus getting a bit of real rust.
6. next I take Elmers glue-all and thickly apply to the scrap load base. I then sprinkle on the steel shaving about one layer thick. With a 1”x2”x 5”stick, Ipress with the end of the stick the steel plate shaving hoping to get the pieces to adhere. I use a 1x2x12” long as an edge piece and push that against the load getting even edging. I did experiment today using Mod Podge instead of the Elmers glue-all. 1 load with the verdict still out
View attachment 141831But it is much more expensive then the Elmers Glue-all I buy in the gallon
7. I continue applying layers of steel shavings until I get the shape and look of a load just peaking out above the gondola sides but instead of full strength the glue is applied 50/50 water to glue, just like gluing down ballast. I do soak it as I do not want the shavings coming off. This dries for 48+ hours depending on your environmental conditions.
8. With everything secured down, the glue dried, and it fits, REMOVE IT. It is steel after all, so a magnet works and now you know why I cut the base a few scale feet shorter.
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I now create a wash of Vallejo Air dark umber and dab it on with a brush. Pay particular attention where the glue might be seen, it is white unless you tinted it first. Let dry, do it again until YOU are satisfied.
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Harder to write then do. Multiples help to quicken. I am not a airbrusher yet but it would speed up the painting portions.
Doing architectural scrap pieces is similar except each piece I glued separately using Aileen’s tacky Glue
View attachment 141833Does your railroad cover scrap loads? If so let me know what successfully works for you. I have tried wedding veil tulle like modelers have used for chain link fencing. Nope, crummy look, looks like tullel!
Sorry this is so wordy but the pictures of each process didn’t work out. Thanks for tuning in
TomO
