TLOC
Well-Known Member
I love the rustBoth sides shown on this rust bucket of a boxcar ( N Scale).View attachment 193552View attachment 193553
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
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Look for my post #2105 of this thread, on page 106. All mentions oil artists oils were done without thinning. It stays tacky for up to several days that way. I waited a day or two before I flung pastel chalk dust at the oil spots, and it stuck to these spots and gave a heavy rust texture.
Another technique is to brush on small dabs without thinning, then drag a dry brush downward over the dab, and turn it into rust streaks that way.
There are Youtube videos showing the “dot fade” technique with oils: You dullcote the surface first, let it dry. Then you dab dots of artist oils all around the car, then brush over the dots with mineral spirits (downward strokes) to distribute & mix the dots.
Another approach is to clearcoat with gloss laquer, then brush the oils (thinned with mineral spirits) over seams, rivets, panel lines, etc., like a wash.
The difference between brushing over a gloss or flat is that when thinned to a wash consistency, the oils will tend to spread out over a flat coat, but will tend to “retreat” over a gloss coat, and congregate in holes, grooves, crevices, etc.
Oils thinned with mineral spirits go on thinner, and dry a bit faster, but still afford more working time than either acrylics or laquers.
It’s necessary to seal with a clear coat between and over oil layers, as working with mineral spirits directly over a layer of oils already laid down can muddle up the first layer.
In some of those videos, they clear coat several times, and sometimes alternate the type:
Clear flat and dot fade in oils
Clear gloss and wash/accent lines
Clear flat and localized effects
Clear flat to seal
I’ve got cars lined up and waiting to get more into techniques with artist oils.
Jcsriptrack
I feel gives you the best all around explanation on the use of oils. There are others but he deals with model trains.
Personally I like the oils full strength for rusted scratches and washes for weathering the body of the model. Oils as C&OMtnMan explained do take time to dry. In my case generally 24 hours they are fully dry but those are the washes.
While drying I either cover them in a dust proof container or I put them in the dehydrator to help them dry and keep dust free
Oils are going to be an experiment to find what works best for you
Last week had an old customer in Libby show up wanting me to take care of his companies computers again. Thought about it for about 2 seconds, then told him no. He asked why, then immediately upped what he would pay me. It was a very good offer. Anyway, told him I just don't like doing them anymore, heck mine are needy and nothing happens until breakage. I even told him that old adage "wing nut between the keyboard and chair" was not his problem. Think he understood.
Hang in there, it is your sanity and retirement!
Later
My grandson said, “he has his allowance”. Great kid!
It’s never been about the money. I don’t charge anywhere near what other weathering artists do and absolutely nowhere near what the “name” artists get. I don’t need the weathering money for my trains. I charged just because people respect things more if there is a $ amount attached, IMOO
I have been very conflicted about what I want to accomplish and dialing it back in 2023 helped. Limiting my time at the bench to 2 hour increments with a 90 minute break in between branded me weird according to FB comments but it works for me and reduces any eye strain. People did though understand my no Tuesday or Thursday weathering stance! I’ll still have plenty of my own weathering projects and my inclination is to keep weathering the diesels to one a week.
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C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
What is the animal in the logo on the right? Face looks like a cat/panther, but the pose of the body looks more like a bear.Both sides shown on this rust bucket of a boxcar ( N Scale).
Alcomotive
Grandson of an ALCO Builder
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Good morning. It’s back to the bench!
Today and tomorrow will be an Intermodal well car weathering marathon. I had no plans for the day, I’m really in a good mood after 3 days of very good golf, so let’s weather
4 sets of Kato well cars
To be lightly to medium weathered. No graffiti or tagging. I find the Kato well cars to roll the best mainly because of the weight of the cars
Next up will be 4 Walthers 53’ well car singles. Already weathered but in need of some touch ups and a final matte clear coat. Not sure why but #4 car is not in this picture! I find the Walthers cars to be just as good as the Kato cars and a touch better than the Athearn cars. They are heavy and after adding a couple gray Kadee washers roll nicely. Out of the box the wheels rub against the underbody.
Already weathered but needing additional tags these 5 Walthers 53’ cars are a commission work
After these are completed I will post additional but finished pictures and the colors used
Just a minor FYI.
For overall modeling I prefer the Kato, then the Walthers cars, then the Athearn sets and finally the Atlas sets. Atlas is by far the best detailed of these cars but have absolutely no weight and I will no longer purchase them.
Today and tomorrow will be an Intermodal well car weathering marathon. I had no plans for the day, I’m really in a good mood after 3 days of very good golf, so let’s weather
4 sets of Kato well cars
To be lightly to medium weathered. No graffiti or tagging. I find the Kato well cars to roll the best mainly because of the weight of the cars
Next up will be 4 Walthers 53’ well car singles. Already weathered but in need of some touch ups and a final matte clear coat. Not sure why but #4 car is not in this picture! I find the Walthers cars to be just as good as the Kato cars and a touch better than the Athearn cars. They are heavy and after adding a couple gray Kadee washers roll nicely. Out of the box the wheels rub against the underbody.
Already weathered but needing additional tags these 5 Walthers 53’ cars are a commission work
After these are completed I will post additional but finished pictures and the colors used
Just a minor FYI.
For overall modeling I prefer the Kato, then the Walthers cars, then the Athearn sets and finally the Atlas sets. Atlas is by far the best detailed of these cars but have absolutely no weight and I will no longer purchase them.
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
I started back at the bench Saturday night working on wheel sets and truck frames. This morning I moved to working on fades. matte clear coating and the initial under frame weathering
Under frame colors are airbrushed using Tamiya XF9 Hull Red, x21 flat base and xf1 black, thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol, maybe 20% colors 80% IPA. The color ratios are unknown as this is a continuous bottle that I just add the colors and IPA when I feel it’s getting low
This application was then followed up with another spray of Tamiya flat clear XF 86, thinned 50/50 with Isopropyl Alcohol. The cars have been drying maybe 90 minutes
Tonight on the well cars I will continue weathering using a wash, hand brushed with colors to be determined. There will be no tagging or graffiti on this batch of cars
Under frame colors are airbrushed using Tamiya XF9 Hull Red, x21 flat base and xf1 black, thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol, maybe 20% colors 80% IPA. The color ratios are unknown as this is a continuous bottle that I just add the colors and IPA when I feel it’s getting low
This application was then followed up with another spray of Tamiya flat clear XF 86, thinned 50/50 with Isopropyl Alcohol. The cars have been drying maybe 90 minutes
Tonight on the well cars I will continue weathering using a wash, hand brushed with colors to be determined. There will be no tagging or graffiti on this batch of cars
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Pictures later
but I feel the pulp cars are good and maybe considered done after the wheels and trucks are dry
One set of Well cars are waiting to dry. I like the underside with the 3rd coat applied but the inside of the well where the containers sit, needs work or started over, no tags or graffiti on this set
The 2 covered hoppers got another coat of grime on the chutes but nothing yet of note
Just finished dinner and will wait 30 minutes before going back into the train room
but I feel the pulp cars are good and maybe considered done after the wheels and trucks are dry
One set of Well cars are waiting to dry. I like the underside with the 3rd coat applied but the inside of the well where the containers sit, needs work or started over, no tags or graffiti on this set
The 2 covered hoppers got another coat of grime on the chutes but nothing yet of note
Just finished dinner and will wait 30 minutes before going back into the train room
traiNscale
Well-Known Member
i have a question for all you weathering pros. as you may know i ordered some 502 oil colors.
i did try to use them last week but strugle a bit. i mean they are oil colors, so they are thick.
my question is, do i have to thin them for weathering or how do i use those oilcolors on my rolling stock or buildings?
Maybe iam missing something or dont understand. so maybe you can help me and explain how the oil colors "work".
thnx
i did try to use them last week but strugle a bit. i mean they are oil colors, so they are thick.
my question is, do i have to thin them for weathering or how do i use those oilcolors on my rolling stock or buildings?
Maybe iam missing something or dont understand. so maybe you can help me and explain how the oil colors "work".
thnx
C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
Look for my post #2105 of this thread, on page 106. All mentions oil artists oils were done without thinning. It stays tacky for up to several days that way. I waited a day or two before I flung pastel chalk dust at the oil spots, and it stuck to these spots and gave a heavy rust texture.
Another technique is to brush on small dabs without thinning, then drag a dry brush downward over the dab, and turn it into rust streaks that way.
There are Youtube videos showing the “dot fade” technique with oils: You dullcote the surface first, let it dry. Then you dab dots of artist oils all around the car, then brush over the dots with mineral spirits (downward strokes) to distribute & mix the dots.
Another approach is to clearcoat with gloss laquer, then brush the oils (thinned with mineral spirits) over seams, rivets, panel lines, etc., like a wash.
The difference between brushing over a gloss or flat is that when thinned to a wash consistency, the oils will tend to spread out over a flat coat, but will tend to “retreat” over a gloss coat, and congregate in holes, grooves, crevices, etc.
Oils thinned with mineral spirits go on thinner, and dry a bit faster, but still afford more working time than either acrylics or laquers.
It’s necessary to seal with a clear coat between and over oil layers, as working with mineral spirits directly over a layer of oils already laid down can muddle up the first layer.
In some of those videos, they clear coat several times, and sometimes alternate the type:
Clear flat and dot fade in oils
Clear gloss and wash/accent lines
Clear flat and localized effects
Clear flat to seal
I’ve got cars lined up and waiting to get more into techniques with artist oils.
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C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Jay, your best bet for oil useage is check out some of the you tube videos.
Jcsriptrack
I feel gives you the best all around explanation on the use of oils. There are others but he deals with model trains.
Personally I like the oils full strength for rusted scratches and washes for weathering the body of the model. Oils as C&OMtnMan explained do take time to dry. In my case generally 24 hours they are fully dry but those are the washes.
While drying I either cover them in a dust proof container or I put them in the dehydrator to help them dry and keep dust free
Oils are going to be an experiment to find what works best for you
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Yep, I’m still around but I’ve not done anything more since the last posting. I’m stuck in neutral which is starting to happen more often! I really dislike having incomplete weathering projects on the bench and shelves but I have been unable to get motivated to finish them.
While not a rare occurrence for me as I mentioned above it is happening more frequently. I have to finish the Kato 3 car articulated Well car set
but beyond that nothing is due until late September and October. Maybe that’s the reason for lack of motivation or the decent weather we have been experiencing. I just can’t see being indoors when the weather is nice.
Something I mentioned in the Diner part of the forum! Terry and I have on and off this year discussed my totally getting out of the commission weathering business. I already in the 2nd half of 2023 had stopped the speculation weathering. Buy a model, weather it and then sell it on Facebook or EBay. That was a great part of the business during 2020 Covid till Spring of 2023. It has just dried up. Without being political, it’s the economy. The extra funds for hobbies seems to be less. Commission work is still very plentiful though.
I averaged 56 cars a month in 2023. In 2024 I am down to a more manageable 44 cars a month so far. I purposely cut back by advertising less. I still do 1 diesel a week. I was informed in June that a 10 car a month customer was going elsewhere. When I spoke to him he wanted a lesser price but he also wanted another style of weathering.
I think I’m also tired of: here’s the picture of how I want them done. I have always used pictures for inspiration. But this year it seems to be more, duplicate the picture and that to me is inhibiting. Let me do how I feel the model wants to be done. But they are the customer and get what they want…
Case in point. Client loves the above 6 cars but now wants graffiti and tags! I don’t want to add graffiti and tags, but I will!
It is time I seriously think about finishing up my current commissions and let my regulars know to start looking. It partly goes along with the comments I posted 1/1/2024 on page 84 of this thread. Things run their course. I think I may have run mine. We’ll see what happens. I’m mostly retired and I am allowed to change my mind but I am leaning that way.
I’ll still post occasionally here as I do have plenty of my own models yet to be weathered
While not a rare occurrence for me as I mentioned above it is happening more frequently. I have to finish the Kato 3 car articulated Well car set
but beyond that nothing is due until late September and October. Maybe that’s the reason for lack of motivation or the decent weather we have been experiencing. I just can’t see being indoors when the weather is nice.
Something I mentioned in the Diner part of the forum! Terry and I have on and off this year discussed my totally getting out of the commission weathering business. I already in the 2nd half of 2023 had stopped the speculation weathering. Buy a model, weather it and then sell it on Facebook or EBay. That was a great part of the business during 2020 Covid till Spring of 2023. It has just dried up. Without being political, it’s the economy. The extra funds for hobbies seems to be less. Commission work is still very plentiful though.
I averaged 56 cars a month in 2023. In 2024 I am down to a more manageable 44 cars a month so far. I purposely cut back by advertising less. I still do 1 diesel a week. I was informed in June that a 10 car a month customer was going elsewhere. When I spoke to him he wanted a lesser price but he also wanted another style of weathering.
I think I’m also tired of: here’s the picture of how I want them done. I have always used pictures for inspiration. But this year it seems to be more, duplicate the picture and that to me is inhibiting. Let me do how I feel the model wants to be done. But they are the customer and get what they want…
Case in point. Client loves the above 6 cars but now wants graffiti and tags! I don’t want to add graffiti and tags, but I will!
It is time I seriously think about finishing up my current commissions and let my regulars know to start looking. It partly goes along with the comments I posted 1/1/2024 on page 84 of this thread. Things run their course. I think I may have run mine. We’ll see what happens. I’m mostly retired and I am allowed to change my mind but I am leaning that way.
I’ll still post occasionally here as I do have plenty of my own models yet to be weathered
ctclibby
Well-Known Member
Tom: Don't be too hard on yourself. Through the years I have done stuff for customers/friends and even though they like it, it gets really old to me. We are not product line bots like they think.
Last week had an old customer in Libby show up wanting me to take care of his companies computers again. Thought about it for about 2 seconds, then told him no. He asked why, then immediately upped what he would pay me. It was a very good offer. Anyway, told him I just don't like doing them anymore, heck mine are needy and nothing happens until breakage. I even told him that old adage "wing nut between the keyboard and chair" was not his problem. Think he understood.
Hang in there, it is your sanity and retirement!
Later
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thanks Todd. I had a comment from a train friend yesterday that came over to say hi when we were doing pizza out with the grandson and SIL. I had mentioned on my FB page a while back that I had reduced and was going to reduce my weathering even more. He said if I stop my weathering sales what will I use for modeling money?
My grandson said, “he has his allowance”. Great kid!
It’s never been about the money. I don’t charge anywhere near what other weathering artists do and absolutely nowhere near what the “name” artists get. I don’t need the weathering money for my trains. I charged just because people respect things more if there is a $ amount attached, IMOO
I have been very conflicted about what I want to accomplish and dialing it back in 2023 helped. Limiting my time at the bench to 2 hour increments with a 90 minute break in between branded me weird according to FB comments but it works for me and reduces any eye strain. People did though understand my no Tuesday or Thursday weathering stance! I’ll still have plenty of my own weathering projects and my inclination is to keep weathering the diesels to one a week.
C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
Over in the engine thread, I mentioned four wood box cars in the works. This post is progress on one of those four, an Athearn N Scale “Old Time” Chesapeake & Ohio box car. In the C& O Historic Society archives cars of similar constructionand livery sate from 1893 to 1895. I didn’t take a “before” picture, but I would characterize it as very bright on the “boxcar red” spectrum, overly so; even bordering on gaudy. More red it was, than any boxcar in any color photo in the COHS archives.
This car is intended to not run on the main line, but will be an old well-worn unit to bring supplies to the coal mine and/or timber camp up the branch line where thise industries are found.
The first task was twofold:
(1) Fade the car
(2) Lean it more toward a brown
So, for the fade coat, I mixed six parts of Vallejo white with one part Mission Models brown (yeah, just plain brown - my entire color palette used on this car is in a photo at the end of this post.) I thinned it 2:1 with Vallejo airbrush thinner.
This is the sole photo I have of it in fade only, it is to the immediate right of the yellow refer:
Think of the original boxcar color as a slightly orange shade of the caboose in that photo. Both goals were accomplished to my satisfaction.
I then sprayed over the fade with dullcoat to preserve it, so I could move on tho localized fade effects.
For localized spots of additional fade, I mixed six parts of Vallejo white to one part Vallejo neutral gray, and thinned 3:1 with demineralized water to make a wash for brushing on.
I also wanted to simulate some wood dregdadation, and I thought a green would work for that, and I selected Vallejo gunship green some months ago for that very purpose.
The combined results of the two:
The green is applied to the left and right of the word “CHESAPEAKE” in the above photo.
Below is the other side:
The green for the mildew/wood rot here is to both sides of the door.
Also in the above photos is a wash I made to dirty up the ladder areas. I’ve only done it with passel chalks before. The wash was Vallejo black & burnt umber, and the Mission Models brown, in a 1:1:1 mix, then thinned with water 3:1.
The above is the embarrassing part about photographing N scale weathering - the photos are either too dim to show off the details of your work, or so bright that all flaws are laid bare. The latter has occurred with these two photos. I painstakingly lightly blotted up excess white fade, then drybrushed to feather the edge of the fade, and even came back with a damp brush to extend the transition a bit more. The pictures tend to render that a lie, but do it, I did.
The other details were the turnbuckles, brakewheel, and brakewheel rod were brushed with Vallejo burnt umber.
The end view shots:
Well, the car isn’t sealed yet, and the trucks & wheels aren’t done yet, maybe I can rehabilitate my fade transitions of the light areas.
And below is my complete color selection for this car:
This car is intended to not run on the main line, but will be an old well-worn unit to bring supplies to the coal mine and/or timber camp up the branch line where thise industries are found.
The first task was twofold:
(1) Fade the car
(2) Lean it more toward a brown
So, for the fade coat, I mixed six parts of Vallejo white with one part Mission Models brown (yeah, just plain brown - my entire color palette used on this car is in a photo at the end of this post.) I thinned it 2:1 with Vallejo airbrush thinner.
This is the sole photo I have of it in fade only, it is to the immediate right of the yellow refer:
Think of the original boxcar color as a slightly orange shade of the caboose in that photo. Both goals were accomplished to my satisfaction.
I then sprayed over the fade with dullcoat to preserve it, so I could move on tho localized fade effects.
For localized spots of additional fade, I mixed six parts of Vallejo white to one part Vallejo neutral gray, and thinned 3:1 with demineralized water to make a wash for brushing on.
I also wanted to simulate some wood dregdadation, and I thought a green would work for that, and I selected Vallejo gunship green some months ago for that very purpose.
The combined results of the two:
The green is applied to the left and right of the word “CHESAPEAKE” in the above photo.
Below is the other side:
The green for the mildew/wood rot here is to both sides of the door.
Also in the above photos is a wash I made to dirty up the ladder areas. I’ve only done it with passel chalks before. The wash was Vallejo black & burnt umber, and the Mission Models brown, in a 1:1:1 mix, then thinned with water 3:1.
The above is the embarrassing part about photographing N scale weathering - the photos are either too dim to show off the details of your work, or so bright that all flaws are laid bare. The latter has occurred with these two photos. I painstakingly lightly blotted up excess white fade, then drybrushed to feather the edge of the fade, and even came back with a damp brush to extend the transition a bit more. The pictures tend to render that a lie, but do it, I did.
The other details were the turnbuckles, brakewheel, and brakewheel rod were brushed with Vallejo burnt umber.
The end view shots:
Well, the car isn’t sealed yet, and the trucks & wheels aren’t done yet, maybe I can rehabilitate my fade transitions of the light areas.
And below is my complete color selection for this car:
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Well no matter what I decide on for my future I do have cars to weather, now!
I did finish a 3 car Kato set today. A client had said to me before I post it for sale show it to him. He was looking for a heavily weathered underside of the car, medium to light heavy grime coat but little rust in the well of the car and a light grime dusty of the outside of the car body. But he wanted no graffiti, tags or rust streaking
Sounds easy enough but you never know. The above is what I came up with and is all air brushed with a base of Tamiya colors.
The underside was done with XF52 Flat Earth thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol. Then a matte finish matte coat was sprayed and allowed to dry 48 hours. Then sprayed again but with XF1 Black thinned 10% black to 90 IPA. Because I thought is was too blackish I lightly sprayed XF52 Flat Earth again just to blend it. The inside of the well was basically done the same way and colors.
The fade on the car body was done using a few drops of XF3 Yellow into a thinned mix of XF2 White and the IPA. After another clear matte finish was sprayed and dried I did a light spray of XF52 Flat Earth thinned again but to something that looked right, most likely 10% paint and 90% IPA. Finished off with another matte clear finish.
The client has approved.
Next up is 2 more Kato sets of articulated well cars and a few going over to CambriaArea52 locomotive weathering thread.
I did finish a 3 car Kato set today. A client had said to me before I post it for sale show it to him. He was looking for a heavily weathered underside of the car, medium to light heavy grime coat but little rust in the well of the car and a light grime dusty of the outside of the car body. But he wanted no graffiti, tags or rust streaking
Sounds easy enough but you never know. The above is what I came up with and is all air brushed with a base of Tamiya colors.
The underside was done with XF52 Flat Earth thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol. Then a matte finish matte coat was sprayed and allowed to dry 48 hours. Then sprayed again but with XF1 Black thinned 10% black to 90 IPA. Because I thought is was too blackish I lightly sprayed XF52 Flat Earth again just to blend it. The inside of the well was basically done the same way and colors.
The fade on the car body was done using a few drops of XF3 Yellow into a thinned mix of XF2 White and the IPA. After another clear matte finish was sprayed and dried I did a light spray of XF52 Flat Earth thinned again but to something that looked right, most likely 10% paint and 90% IPA. Finished off with another matte clear finish.
Next up is 2 more Kato sets of articulated well cars and a few going over to CambriaArea52 locomotive weathering thread.
C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
Ok, 125+ years-old box car weathering, Part Deux:
More work with washes to try to mute/blend some of my prior work on this car. I used all three washes from the previous post:
The light gray fade wash,
The green wood rot wash,
The grimy brown wash.
Without further ado, here is the updated look:
I also applied some pastel chalks to the roof. I know you guys who weather modern rolling stock fade your roofs, but in the era of steam, I can’t help but think that the smoke and soot tend to darken car roofs. I have been unable to source photos showing overhead views of 1890s-vintage cars. So, I grime up the roofs with passel chalks. I used a 1:1 mix of the darkest gray and darkest brown in my set. The result:
I think it is much more complete at this juncture. Still need to seal it, and do the trucks & wheels.
More work with washes to try to mute/blend some of my prior work on this car. I used all three washes from the previous post:
The light gray fade wash,
The green wood rot wash,
The grimy brown wash.
Without further ado, here is the updated look:
I also applied some pastel chalks to the roof. I know you guys who weather modern rolling stock fade your roofs, but in the era of steam, I can’t help but think that the smoke and soot tend to darken car roofs. I have been unable to source photos showing overhead views of 1890s-vintage cars. So, I grime up the roofs with passel chalks. I used a 1:1 mix of the darkest gray and darkest brown in my set. The result:
I think it is much more complete at this juncture. Still need to seal it, and do the trucks & wheels.
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
I like! Believeable which is hard to achieve for the era you model. Well done and thanks for the great description of your process
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Good morning. Tuesday the 6th was supposed to be a good weathering day. The plan was to get the 3 car Kato set clear coated and move on to the next 2 Kato well car sets and clear coat a diesel. When you have no electricity from 4:14am to 8:17am it does put a damper on the day. The 2 hours planned from 5:30 to 7:30 did not happen. The grandson’s hockey camp that I am chauffeuring for interfered from 9:30am to 2:30pm Then the 3-4pm nap, dinner, then the grandson’s hockey game which was a shocking playoff game win and the celebrating ice cream stop afterwards meant I only weathered from 9:30pm to 11:05 when I declared, its bed time!
Today, up at 5 to play with the Nest thermostat that lost its network settings during the no electricity event of the 6th. After I finish this missive it’s to the bench for a couple hours. After that yesterday’s hockey schedule kicks in and I’ll see the bench around 9pm.
Here is the finished Kato 3 car articulated well car set with “New” logo. All I did was clear matte finish it! It’s the same picture I used on Monday! But now it has a new matte finish and looks the same…
Turns out I cost myself another $30 because of the “new” logo. It’s the red TTX! They are supposedly more difficult to find and I could have gotten more for them, but I did very well anyway! The next 2 new logo sets I have to weather will reflect the new increased hard to locate pricing!
The same numbered Kato set DTTX 766519 will also go out Friday via the USPS after more work. The logo on the C car is a black shadowed TTX so is considered the “old” logo! I staged the old and new car sets for this client to illustrate lightly weathered compared to medium weathering. The well needs a touch up and a couple spots need more grime. The front car on the tracks is the older edition and I set each car to show off the different placement of numbers, logos and car info.
To the bench
Today, up at 5 to play with the Nest thermostat that lost its network settings during the no electricity event of the 6th. After I finish this missive it’s to the bench for a couple hours. After that yesterday’s hockey schedule kicks in and I’ll see the bench around 9pm.
Here is the finished Kato 3 car articulated well car set with “New” logo. All I did was clear matte finish it! It’s the same picture I used on Monday! But now it has a new matte finish and looks the same…
Turns out I cost myself another $30 because of the “new” logo. It’s the red TTX! They are supposedly more difficult to find and I could have gotten more for them, but I did very well anyway! The next 2 new logo sets I have to weather will reflect the new increased hard to locate pricing!
The same numbered Kato set DTTX 766519 will also go out Friday via the USPS after more work. The logo on the C car is a black shadowed TTX so is considered the “old” logo! I staged the old and new car sets for this client to illustrate lightly weathered compared to medium weathering. The well needs a touch up and a couple spots need more grime. The front car on the tracks is the older edition and I set each car to show off the different placement of numbers, logos and car info.
To the bench
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