Way to get best finish?

[Tankengine389]

So working on my hornby Thomas, I've managed to get the parts from south eastern finecast on it and now trying figure out the best way to get a really smooth finish on the putty and model filler so it wouldn't have any cracks or bumps on it. (I please don't just say sanding. For I have been and I'm not THAT dumb in that department.)

 

[RIGuyUK]

So working on my hornby Thomas, I've managed to get the parts from south eastern finecast on it and now trying figure out the best way to get a really smooth finish on the putty and model filler so it wouldn't have any cracks or bumps on it. (I please don't just say sanding. For I have been and I'm not THAT dumb in that department.)View attachment 164378

I would pick up an acrylic based filler (AK Interactive Putty - I've been using this for a few years, its the best I've used) as these can been smoothed with a wet brush after applying. Use a flexible sanding stick (as used for nails) to sand smooth, follow up with wet and dry used wet in a circular motion and when satisfied, spray a primer over it.

When dry sand that back lightly with wet and dry, again used wet. This will highlight and high/low spots that will need more sanding, or filling and sanding.

Keep repeating until you are happy with it. There is no quick fix for it unfortunately

 

[Smudge617]

I would pick up an acrylic based filler (AK Interactive Putty - I've been using this for a few years, its the best I've used) as these can been smoothed with a wet brush after applying. Use a flexible sanding stick (as used for nails) to sand smooth, follow up with wet and dry used wet in a circular motion and when satisfied, spray a primer over it.

When dry sand that back lightly with wet and dry, again used wet. This will highlight and high/low spots that will need more sanding, or filling and sanding.

Keep repeating until you are happy with it. There is no quick fix for it unfortunately

Thanks for the interactive putty link, the one I have (Vellejo), is OK, but takes forever to cure.

 

[Tankengine389]

Update: Due to some factors that left me unsatisfied, I officially decided to redo my Thomas model again. (I say model due to the next model I will get for the base will be the generic 0-6-0 that Hornby created with Thomas's mold.) That said though. Everything I've learned so far from the prototype and the colors of paint I've picked for it, are certainly nothing to sneeze at. All the same, I would like to hear other inputs on what material would be best for the buffer beams, since the buffers came out recently after I took this photo. (Last time I think I used plasta card.) Also, any suggestions for glues, epoxies, or adhesives for the buffers and brass lamp irons? I just want to do it right and in a way that will do the character justice in not only a layout, but filming as well.

 

[logandsawman]

I would recommend a small dab of JB weld two part "quick" epoxy. I used it to fasten the brass bell which broke off my locomotive and it is barely noticeable.

First get used to using the product and you may find many uses for it as I do. It is my primary go to in reinforcing scratch built structures held together by CA glue at the seams, when not is sight I use a liberal bead of the JB Quick product at joints.

I mix and apply small amounts with a toothpick, mixed on a small scrap of paper. I have been using it for over 10 years and never been disappointed. I also apply with a toothpick when it gets the right consistency. Wait too long and it is too stiff, apply very soon and it still may be a little runny.

Cautionary statement - must be very careful not to goup it up too much. Begins to harden quickly (JB Quick) however JB Weld is similar, but stronger, hardens slower. I like the fast hardening one cause in a minute or so don't usually have to hold.

When it dries it is very smooth and can be shaved with a knife. Also insulates electrical current.

Dave LASM