Walthers trainline gp9m


M

master_train

Member
hello
I decided to model the CN GP9m
i think to start with walthers train-line locomotive.. what you have to say about the mechanism? (the details level arent inportent to me)
is it all wheels drive? silent drive?
 
It is all wheel drive, but the mechanism isn't really that silent compared to the better brands of locos out there. The growl may not be all that bothersome to you; it's OK for me. It might go away after some break in.

Kennedy
 
Train-line engines have a decent drive system. Like Athearn Blue Box. A little bit of a growl, but reliable with decent pulling power. All wheel pickup and drive. I believe the trucks are wired in the GP9's, I know they are in my F40's, so adding DCC is easy and power pickup is more reliable then the clip system used in Athearn BB.

It is a good starting point if you are not too concerned with detail or accuracy. For a highly detailed model, I would start with a Proto 2k or Atlas model. They also run better and quieter.
 
master_train said:
I mean, if they make the low nose GP9, similar to the GP9m
Click to expand...

They don't make short hoods in the GP9 or GP7. The Proto GP20 has a low short hood.

To make an accurate GP9RM, you'd have to replace the cab and nose anyway. Kaslo makes a shell to do the GP9RM in resin: http://www.kasloshops.com

If you just want to do a low nose GP9 in CN, go with the Train-Line one. It will serve you well and is a great starting point for detailing.
 
great thread thanks I am modeling St Maries River Railroad low nose GP9's they are cut down high hoods so this is right down my alley and didn't care for the look of the train line ones just lacked realistic detailing for me but thought it was the only choice
 
just looked at the GP-9 RM and it isnt right for the GP9's STMA uses. nice looking locomotive though great detail. But the trainline ones are more accurate now if only I good get the detail of the kaslo in the walthers loco
 
If you strip the terrible walthers paint off their GP9, it is actually a decent looking model. Add some wire grabs and other small details and you can have a decent looking model.

That said, chopping the nose on an Atlas or Proto 2K isn't that hard. A good project for those looking to get into kit bashing.
 
great idea

I'll keep that in mind. I have to repaint them anyway for the STMA colors so stripping down first wouldnt be so bad. I had already planned to add the extra detailing and up graded parts. Thanks for the suggestion
 
gp9m vs gp9rm

Im no expert by any means but after looking at the kaslo GP9RM it is very different from the Gp9 that STMA uses the first noticable difference i seen was the front of the hood on the GP9RM seems more pointed and the headlamps are stacked one on top of the other in the center and on the Walthers gp9m the nose is less pointed and the headlamps are in each upper corner of the hood. STMA's are the latter. I dont have any idea about the designation of the GP9's I just know the walthers GP9M looks just like STMA GP9's which from my understanding were high hoods that got cut down when they were rebuilt after being purchased from the milwalkee road. I don't know how much this helps you but it helped me. I found the pictures of the kaslo model at canadian model locomotive works.

http://www.cmla.ca

devon
 
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