Walthers Solvaset Residue

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NWCanuck

NWCanuck

Tip&Ring
I have recently applied some decals to a model and after using Walthers Solvaset it leaves behind and white residue and what looks like an oil stain around the decal. I tried using tap water and a Q-Tip to rub the residue off without success.

I went as far as using 70% Isopropyl Alcohol on the residue before seeing a comment in a post by Jerome saying: DO NOT USE ALCOHOL ON GLOSS OR DULL COTE. He was right, what a mess I put myself in with that move. I wish I had seen that before I came up with that solution.

Has anyone else here experienced this residue effect with Solvaset and how did you get it off?

Will spraying Testors Gloss coat over this just make it worse, or will it blend in?

I ended up taping off the new decals and spraying my base colour over the residue which also helped to repair the hazing caused by the alcohol blunder, but I would still like to know the answer for the next time. The only thing that saved me here was the fact that the model is and EMD F3 and because the model will be the oldest loco on my layout I was able to justify the weathering. Had this been a factory roll out from the paint shop it would have been a total loss.:o
 
Brad, another coat of gloss-coat over it should make most of it disappear. I'd recommend trying Champ's decal set. Been using it for years with great results.
 
Thanks for the tip Jerome. I am wondering where Champs would fall in compared to the other decal setting solutions? I have found that they seem to go in order from the least reactive to the most reactive as far as how much they soften the decal.

1. Microscale Microset (least reactive)
2. Microscale Microsol (medium)
3. Walthers Solvaset (full strength this stuff is nuts, dont touch the decal at all after application)
 


Brad, I'd say in the middle somewhere. I've used them all and settled on the Champ as the most easy to work with and most dependable. I water it down about 70/30 (solution/water).
 
I've never had this happen but I've also never used that brand of solvent, so I am wondering if maybe that "white residue" was actually dissolved material from the decal?
 
I've had this problem in the past and found it was from disolved minerals in the tap water. I now use distilled water and rarely have any residue problems.
 
UP2CSX said:
I've had this problem in the past and found it was from disolved minerals in the tap water. I now use distilled water and rarely have any residue problems.
Click to expand...

That is about the only thing that I did not try as far as the distilled water goes. I have since used Microscale Microsol instead with my tap water without any problems. Mind you it is not as aggressive or as strong as Solvaset, but the next time I use it I will make sure to use Distilled water.

Thanks for the info Jim.
 
cajon said:
You'll get much better results using Microscale's Micro Set & Micro Sol than w/ any other setting solutions.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=FINPROD
Click on the product #s to see their descriptions. These products have been discussed in most of the model RR mags. Would recommend using the Sol 4-5 times to get the best results.
Click to expand...

On Microscale products, and anything with thin films, yes. If you find yourself using any Champ decals, or older Herald King sets the Microscale solutions are not strong enough. Champ decals have a very strong film. Champ's Decal Set is the strongest solution I've used and I don't use it on Microscale, San Juan, or Thimfilm decals unless I have major body irregularities to get around, then I set them with Microscale stuff first, and apply decal set where it's needed to get them to lay down.

I agree that the residue was likely from the water, not the setting solution.
 


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