Vallejo Air, is it just prethinned Vallejo Model paint?


S

Sverk

New Member
Hi,
As I understand, Vallejo Air is ready for airbrushing as is.
Seems a bit expensive, so I wonder if thinning the regular Vallejo Model Paints will be just the same?
Following their recommendations, one should use the Vallejo thinner for that, which would cancel out the saving.
But would it be about as good to thin with plain water, or maybe water with a tad of alkohol or similar?

Just got my 30 years old Badger 150 cleaned out and up and runing again after many years of unuse (Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner did the trick).
My main use will be for weathering steamers and cars.
Comments please,
 
No, Model Air is not thinned Model Color. The composition is different, the pigment grind is finer with Model Air. Model color is not formulated for spraying. I also thin Model Air.
 
It isn't a question of spraying Tony. Both spray well, though as with any media you'll have a bit of a learning curve with each brand. I tend to prefer Tru-Color for two reasons: I'm a solvent guy. Solvent based is what I learned on and kind of my "default setting" if you know what I mean. Second, and the big one: Tru-Color has the railroad colors, where Vallejo caters more to the military modeler and the gamer crowd. They are doing some model RR colors for Micro Mark, but not enough for me. While it's true you can break out the color wheel and mix colors I'd rather just crack a jar and go for it. Maybe some day when I'm retired I'll change my mind about that, but for now I'd like to maximize the effective use of my modeling time. One warning: DO NOT let Vallejo dry in your airbrush. It has a vinyl component and dries hard as a rock. That makes it a beotch to clean up after the fact. Mind your airbrush housekeeping rules!
 
Alan,

Thanks for that. I am using Tru Color at the moment and do like it. Took me destroying two diesel shells to get the hang of it to a point where I could spray it reasonably well, well enough for me anyway. Don't really want to start learning something else if that is what it would take.

Your also 100% spot on with Tru Color being Rail Road orientated compared to Model Air. Even though I' not a "prototype" of modeler, I do like being able to choose paint colors from rail road colors.
 
Go to the LHS or on line and get yourself some evergreen styrene sheets. Some plain, or some car siding or clapboard siding and practice with those. Much less expensive if you goof. Brass sheet is also good and you can dunk it in lacquer thinner and start over from scratch!
 
Alan, I thought us solvent based painters were a dying breed. Seems most of the new stuff is coming out water based. I've tried it but I can not get the hang of that at all.
 
We aren't all gone, just keeping a low profile! I paint only for myself and a very select few folks. I'm kind of like those doctors you see in the hospital directory where under their name and specialty it says "Not currently accepting new patients" ;)

As for getting along with water based stuff, it depends a lot on what you are trying to shoot and what you are shooting it with. As I mentioned on another thread, older airbrushes have smaller fluid passages and don't deal with the coarser pigment grinds in more modern water based paints. The chemical reaction also starts pretty much as soon as they are exposed to air and they dry really fast (hence the recommendation to stir not shake the paints when mixing), so you get tip dry in the airbrush and orange peel or dry spray. I make use of extenders and retarders depending on the brand. They slow down the reaction and give you a little more time to work. You can cross over, it just takes time, patience, and practice!
 
Alan, I have a pretty good stock of Floquil colors left. Should keep me going for a couple of years anyway. I did see that Tru-Color at my LHS last week. I'll smelled a bottle, it smells like the old Dio-Sol mix.
 
Espeefan said:
Go to the LHS or on line and get yourself some evergreen styrene sheets. Some plain, or some car siding or clapboard siding and practice with those. Much less expensive if you goof. Brass sheet is also good and you can dunk it in lacquer thinner and start over from scratch!
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Alan,
I consider the brass sheet the best, as it is easier to clean after some test shots. AYK, like you I am also solvent based myself. I'll spray the watercolors if I have to, but would rather not.
 
I don't know about anyone else but I have found the solvent based paints spray with more consistency and cover better with less paint being used. It may just be me, but I also think the solvent based paints give a smoother finish.
 
I find the same, however, you can get good results with water based paints once you "learn the medium" I talk with many painters around the country and many more hobbyists, and many can't use solvent based stuff. They live in apartments, have health issues, or other circumstances that preclude using solvent based systems. Some just don't like the smell.
 
Espeefan said:
I find the same, however, you can get good results with water based paints once you "learn the medium" I talk with many painters around the country and many more hobbyists, and many can't use solvent based stuff. They live in apartments, have health issues, or other circumstances that preclude using solvent based systems. Some just don't like the smell.
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That is very true. In apartments or other confined areas, using solvent based paints can be exceedingly difficult, without the use of paint booths. They may be either too big, expensive, or have no decent way to exhaust properly, without hanging the exhaust hose out a window. This can be difficult in winter. Some apartments won't let you even have equipment like this in the building as they sometimes classify the booth as "industrial equipment", and they have a ban on this equipment in the lease.
 
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