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Under and over run
- Thread starter gabby
- Start date
Hi Bob,
I've been doing some research on level changes and it seems most people agree that a 2% grade is most reasonable with 4% being the max.
The forumula: Rise / Run = Grade so 1" rise / 100" run = 1%
So at 2%, a level increase of 4 inches would require 200 inches (16 feet) of track. On smaller layouts (running shorter trains) people usually try to go with a higher grade. So if you use a 4% grade, rising 4 inches would require 100 inches (8 feet) of track.
For a level change greater than a few inches, consider a helix.
I decided on a 1.25" level change on my layout and will use ~4 feet of track. That gives me a 2.5% grade.
Hope this info is helpful.
Doug
I've been doing some research on level changes and it seems most people agree that a 2% grade is most reasonable with 4% being the max.
The forumula: Rise / Run = Grade so 1" rise / 100" run = 1%
So at 2%, a level increase of 4 inches would require 200 inches (16 feet) of track. On smaller layouts (running shorter trains) people usually try to go with a higher grade. So if you use a 4% grade, rising 4 inches would require 100 inches (8 feet) of track.
For a level change greater than a few inches, consider a helix.
I decided on a 1.25" level change on my layout and will use ~4 feet of track. That gives me a 2.5% grade.
Hope this info is helpful.
Doug
By second tier, I assume you mean a whole separate level, not just some elevated track on the current level? If that's the case, then Doug is right about a Helix.......for a whole separate level, you'll need a separation of at least 15 to 18 inches, and unless you run short trains you'd need at least 800 inches (or 66 ft) to keep a 2% grade. Not that hard to do with a helix, but the helix will require 2 1/2 to 3 feet of space by itself. If you simply want to add some elevation and run some elevated track, you only need 2 inches of clearance to run one track over the top of another. For that you'd need 8 feet to climb up (or 16 ft. to go up and back down), which should be able to be worked into your current layout size. Can't say for sure without knowing the track plan.
Good advice so far. Take a look at your current layout. Can you add a 3' section to it? If not are, you willling to lose 3' of scenery and track so you have a place for a helix? You also need to plan for some transition to the grade so 4 feet is probably a more likely scenario. A helix would work but you'll need to find a way to either add it to your present layout or build it in place and then disguise it. If you do a search here on "helix", you'll find a lot of information. Building a good helix is an art and there's a fair amount of woodworking involved to get it right.
Doug
Thanks for the info it is very helpful. I think I can use 2% and run over and back down on what I have.
Dave
Just want to have a run over the top and back down. With the formula that Doug has provided I think I can do that.
UP2CSX
Thanks for the reply. Don't want to start medding around with a helix as my working with timber leaves a lot to be desired. I will however do a search and have a look.
Bob Hayes
Thanks for the info it is very helpful. I think I can use 2% and run over and back down on what I have.
Dave
Just want to have a run over the top and back down. With the formula that Doug has provided I think I can do that.
UP2CSX
Thanks for the reply. Don't want to start medding around with a helix as my working with timber leaves a lot to be desired. I will however do a search and have a look.
Bob Hayes
