uncoupling in N (with kato unitrack)

[new2nscale]

hello all: My questions regarding switches, power routing, etc. have been fantastically responded to, now its on to uncouplers. I am wondering what fellow modellers experience(s) are with the Kato "in-track" magnets. I have one and am planning on putting it on a spur, prior to an additional switch with siding, doing the "delayed uncoupler push" thing, but DONT want accidental uncoupling when pulling the train back out onto the main. How reliable are these kato in-track uncouplers ?? I am presuming like any track-mounted magnetic uncouplers, the amt. of slack in the train (and the speed, drag, etc) will determine if accidental uncouplings occurr or not. My idea, as I did in ho with Atlas track and Kadee magnets almost 20 years ago, is to get a microtrains "under the track" magnet, not the electro-magnet that needs power, but the standard square-type that goes UNDER the track, and affix a "push-pull" system with a bicycle cable, where I can manually move the magnet under the track (and roadbed) by hand. This will put the magnet where it should be (for uncoupling), under the rails, then allow me to get it outta the way (by pulling it) when I dont want the chance of accidental uncoupling. I am confident I can modify by dremelling and whatnot a short piece of kato unitrack to get that microtrains n magnet to slide in and out from the bottom, allowing me to do this. What do you all think ? Is this better than "chancing it", hoping that kato unitack above rails mounted uncoupling magnet DOESN'T accidentallly uncouple ??
Any replies to just how reliable those ones kato make would be greatly appreciated...or is my extra effort sure to be more "problem-free"

Thanks so much !! oh, btw, all my cars will be microtrains brand !!

 

[RW&C]

Sounds like a good idea to me. I'd lean more towards a lever system though, push the lever on the fascia and the magnet pushes up. Cable seems like one more thing to go wrong. (And, with a lever, you could just mount the magnet to the lever, making adjustments etc less fiddly.)

Sorry, never used the Kato magnets. Unitrack is a bit out of my coins-in-the-ashtray budget.

 

[Brakie]

I enjoy the hands off uncoupling and the ability to uncouple a car and shove it to spot and simply back up and leave the car so,I use the 20032 Unitrack 2-1/2" Straight Uncoupler which works quite well.

 

[new2nscale]

how often though....

I have one too, not yet assembled into the layout, but tell me, how often does accidental uncoupling occur when the train proceeds over it slowly ? Ever ? Never ?

thanx ..... btw, i plan on using the one you mention on a quiet siding, and doing the push/pull one i make on the main !

 

[Brakie]

That happens a lot with the micro train(MT) coupler equipped cars because of the "slinky" action of the truck mounted MT coupler.

Since my planned Slate Creek industrial lead switching layout will require slow switching moves I am converting to Atlas trucks with Accumate couplers.

MT sells a retaining spring that fits on the end of the axle of the wheel. This spring eliminates the slinky action.

The best way would be to body mount MT 1015 coupler which in turn eliminates the truck mounted couplers..

 

[new2nscale]

Thanks for the advice!