UK Country House Build


engineerkyle

engineerkyle

Member
Hi All,
I’ve taken on a new project. It will be a UK Country House in HO scale.

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My first problem will be getting the 6 valleys for the 3 gables (dormers?) to match the pitch of the main roof.
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I believe that if I fold a paper template and make one cut at the same angle as the roof. It will be too shallow.

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Are there any practical tricks to this, shy of using the Pythagoras theory?

THANKX
 
Easiest way (I think) I to cut your roof sections as a rectangle the length of the longest run. Locate the window section on the Main Roof Section where it will finally be. Place your cut roof section on the window section then measure the distance from where that roof section ends to where it needs to butt up against the main roof.

Measure back from the main roof end (on your window roof section) the distance you got from above. Draw a line from where that length ends to the very end of the top part of the window roof section. That small triangle that you will see is what needs to be removed so the window section roof sits flat and butts up against the main roof section.

Hope his makes sense.
 
Before I retired I had a couple books with the calculations and charts for those. But, as said I retired and I gave them to the church store to sell to a needy soul.

Check with your library, they would have them under rough carpentry.
 
Hi All,

If this were a bigger dormer, I would have done the math. Here I ended up using a little trial and error until I got an angle that was close. I kept trimming sharper angles of a paper template. Then I glued on the roof and sanded the whole component with a circle motion until I got it to lay flat. It was very easy.

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I bet you I’ll need suggestions on the backyard bay window, when I get to it.

Thanks,
 
What are the large white plastic? pieces on the edge of the roof of the dormers? It looks like there are sticking up above the roof surface - which does not match the prototype.

Also you currently you window sills are going to be sitting on the main roof surface - which also does not match the prototype.

One last item - the prototype dormers have boxed eaves - are you planning to add those later?
 
I had the same problem when adding a new dormer to our house. Because working 1:1, I could simply use the level for the top piece, make the frame for the eave, get the window height, and make small rafter boards all the same. Using 1" board sheathing for the roof, I just projected them back to the house roof and everything was perfect.

Pretty tough to translate to a model.

Yours looks like it will work just fine. lasm
 

What are the large white plastic? Some Plastic-struct T-bars. pieces on the edge of the roof of the dormers? It looks like there are sticking up above the roof surface - which does not match the prototype. I don't fuss over things like this, I believe the trim will make a good impression in the end.

Also you currently you window sills are going to be sitting on the main roof surface - which also does not match the prototype. That will be OK.

One last item - the prototype dormers have boxed eaves - are you planning to add those later? No.
 
I don't mean to pry into information you do not wish to share but, out of curiosity, how old are you?

Thanks!
 
That has turned out first class! Excellent job Kyle.

Now it is finished can I ask you a few questions?

1. What did you use for the "brick cladding"?
2. What did you use for the "roofing"?
3. What did you use for the "interior lighting"?

All of the above look very good.
 
wombat457 said:
That has turned out first class! Excellent job Kyle.

Now it is finished can I ask you a few questions?

1. What did you use for the "brick cladding"?
2. What did you use for the "roofing"?
3. What did you use for the "interior lighting"?

All of the above look very good.
Click to expand...

Hi Tony,

the brick is cut from a styrene sheet by Walthers, primed with brown spray paint, and "mortared" with spackle
the roofing is cut from a WS shingle sheet an pressed to a self adhesive floor tile for extra rigidity
a single 14V bulb

thanks for the interest
 
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