Turntable Project Update


fcwilt

Active Member
Hi,

A good while back I started on a project to replace the electronics in a Walthers 130' DCC turntable with something that better suited my needs and simply worked better.

I recently installed the Arduino based electronics in the bridge and have updated the code on both the Arduino "agent" in the bridge and the Arduino "controller" which will mount on the layout.

The "controller" has a network connection, a LocoNet connection and the IR sensor.

The LocoNet connection is being used to allow the turntable to be controlled by Train Controller, the software I am using to run my automated layout.

The IR sensor with the companion IR remote allow manual control of the turntable if that proves useful.

The network connection allows control of the turntable as well but it's primary purpose is to be able to download/upload the configuration information that is entered into the "agent" and the "controller". This information, among others things maps logical locations, as used by Train Controller, to physical positions of the storage tracks around the turntable.

The Walthers roundhouse models assume 10 degree spacing of the tracks around the turntable. Thus I have provide for 36 possible logical locations - 36 tracks at 10 degree intervals yields 360 degrees.

Here are a few pictures:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lh9cu03wum0zzlq/AADDU1eKV_v-FgzcNxoIO7w1a?dl=0

One picture shows the electronics in the bridge - there wasn't much room leftover given the "perf board" nature of the construction.

The black cylinder with the wires coming out the bottom is the commutator that I used to replace the "commutator" that came with the turntable. The Walthers implementation was clearly inexpensive and it didn't work very well.

The unit I found has 12 circuits. I only needed 6 so I used pairs of the 12 circuits to yield the 6 I needed and provide redundancy.

The unit I found just happened to be the exact diameter of the "shaft" of the Walthers turntable. After removing the Walters "commutator" board I was able to install my unit and glue it to the existing "shaft" - a perfect fit - what are the odds.

In another picture you can see the "controller" on the workbench along with the IR sensor and remote which can be used to control the turntable (if desired).

Then there is the picture of the turntable with the cable suspended over it. This cable is only connected to the bridge when I need to update the code in the bridge's Arduino board.

Just FYI.
 
I'll be following this thread with great interest! I have been hoping to find an alternative way to control the turntable independently of the Walthers circuitry, which, as I have read many times on this and others forums, often fails - rendering the whole thing useless.
 
I'll be following this thread with great interest! I have been hoping to find an alternative way to control the turntable independently of the Walthers circuitry, which, as I have read many times on this and others forums, often fails - rendering the whole thing useless.

How are you with wiring up electronics and programming these sorts of tiny computers?

I'd be more then happy to share the circuit designs and software but it is not a project for a novice - at least I don't think it is.

The design and operation is much better then the Walthers unit.

Aside from actually working reliably the configuration (specifying where the storage tracks are) is much easier. The configuration file is a simple "text" file in a simplified XML format. So having gone to the trouble of configuring the unit (more on that below) you are not at risk in losing all the work as you can save it to another computer (assuming you have an Ethernet network).

You can configure the system by "eye", lining up the bridge with a storage track using the IR remote and then specifying a logical location number (1 to 36) for that track. You can edit any of these locations at any time.

To make it even easier I have a idea that is next on my list to try. The concept is a battery powered IR emitter device that will fit accurately on the rails of a storage track. Then there will be an similar IR sensor device that will fit on the bridge rails. Then a command will be issued to have the system "find" the track where the IR emitter is. When it finds the track it will store the position information.


I forgot to mention a couple of things.

The "controller" that mounts to the layout consists of an off-the-shelf Arduino Mega2560 and a Arduino Ethernet Shield PLUS a "prototyping" shield (https://www.adafruit.com/products/192) which contains the custom electronics needed.

The sensors I added to the bridge are needed for use by Train Controller in stopping the locos in the correct positions. I have some little covers in mind that are going to give them a look of some sort of equipment on the bridge.


Frederick
 
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I talked to a Walters rep at a train show recently and he acknowledged the electronics turntable problem. He said that the new 90 table production has new electronics and the 130 will get that as well when it gets into production again.

So they will be making a new 90' unit and a new 130' foot unit as well as the current 110' unit?

Frederick
 
This isn't an explanation of how to "fix" these turntables, but... When I built my most current layout, about five years ago, I installed a Walthers 90-ft. turntable. I only had room for a two-stall "roundhouse", and the idea was to be able to turn my steam locomotives. I had so much trouble with the electronics that I disabled it, turning it into a manually-operated unit. :( Another problem that soon became apparent was that my larger steamers were too long, something the prototype roads ran into as time went on. As I had incorporated a wye into the layout, and most traffic travels on a continuous, folded dogbone, counterclockwise, "turning" the bigger hogs became unnecessary. I did not want to remove the turntable pit from the layout as it would have meant filling in the large hole in the 5/8" plywood sub-roadbed. My solution was to fix the bridge in place, aligned with one stall's rails and the lead track, and build out a diverging section to the bridge, starting from the middle, and pointing to the other stall, with access via a manually-operated (Peco) turnout. If I can figure out how to do it, I'll post a photo. Works like a charm! :)
 



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