Troublesome Turnouts


A

AlcoGuy

New Member
Hi guys.

I'm fairly new to scale RR. I received a Bachmann N Scale E-Z Track kit as a gift two years ago. Things quickly got way out of hand. I've now got lot's of rolling stock, buildings, etc. all on Bachmann E-Z Track. It's a double loop on a 30" x 70" door. I like the layout but ...

The turnouts are giving me lot's of trouble and I'm thinking that I made a mistake by not using the Atlas Code 55. Also I want to go DCC.

I could try to cut out the old turnouts (seven of them) and solder in the Atlas turnouts or I could just start over from scratch.

Obviously I can reproduce the layout which I like and I can keep all the rolling stock and buildings. But I've got nearly two years in the old layout. I'm having trouble dealing with the idea of just ripping the valuable parts off of it and tossing the rest of it on the scrap heap.

I don't want to be disrespectful to any manufacturer but maybe I made a mistake early on by staying with the E-Z Track?

I guess I'm looking for some advice about when is a good time to move on and what can actually be fixed. Maybe I just haven't cared for the Bachmann turnouts properly. Maybe they can be fixed? Maybe I'm better off just starting over?

I appreciate your advice.
 
Has the problem always been there or just started?
If its just started it might be because the points aren't working properly and fully closing. A good cleaning may help.
If its always been there it could be a lot of things.
Are they #4 turnouts? (these don't work well in any mainline operation)
Check for the dreaded "S" turn. Some times adding 2 switches create an un-noticeable "S" turn which trains hate. this can occur when coming out of a turn onto a switch also.
Maybe its your rolling stock isn't weighted properly. This is another spot to check. Is it the same car all the time?..maybe a weight/coupler issue. Slowly run the train across the area and watch it closely to see whats going on.
Give us a picture of whats going on and maybe we might notice something else. Hope this is some help!
 
Bachmann E-Z track turnouts have always been troublesome because the spring used to actuate the turnout is not strong enough hold the points tightly against the stock rail. Before you rip them out, get a very fine needle file and file those points until they are razor sharp. That will usually allow the points to remain flush against the rail and stop the wheels from picking the points. I have several E-Z track switches on my layout and a lot of filing, as well checking all the things that Bob pointed out, should make the switches reasonably reliable.
 
Good Points - Thanks

Many Good Points to think about - Thanks.

You are correct. The problem with the turnouts has not always been there, it is getting worse over time.

The cars are weighted. Mostly I've got a 1/4 ounce on each truck, depends on how well the car tracks.

Sorry, I'm too stupid to know what a #4 turnout is, I can not offer an answer.

I've have two pictures as you suggested. This is an overview.
Overview.JPG



This is a close up of the switch at the end of the train as shown above. This is the worst turnout. All cars go straight through just fine, but they don't want to stay on the track if going to the right goint into the yard.
SouthSwitch.jpg


I have already filed the points. Maybe I didn't file enough?

Thank you for your help.
 
This is a problem with HO scale turnouts also so dont feel bad.

First check if you have any slight elevation change in the switch.
if that seams good check the rail to see if its louse and its "leaning" if this is the case the rail will let the train wheels ride up and derail. make sure that rail is upright.

If you still have issues try this
now Follow me here..LOL
if you filed down the point rail and the wheels still jump you can try to put a notch in the straight rail, at the location where the movable rail makes contact with the straight rail. If you file it correctly when you want the train to go to the right the point rail will "fit" into the notch and make a smooth transition for the wheels on the left to follow.

hope that helps
 
To clarify Imackatack's suggestion, here is a pic of a Peco N Scale turnout. If you look closely, you can see the "notch" in the rail where the point fits when thrown. The Pecos have that notch cut in both sides as they come. I suppose careful use of a file and/or moto-tool could modify an existing turnout if needed.

Tim
 
It appears to me that your left point in the photo you provided is misaligned with the closure rail. Your left point, the one touching its stock rail, runs to a pivot. It may just be the lighting, but it seems that where it pivots it has an end butted against the closure rail. In the image, it almost looks high...but I'll bet it's a sloppy pivot anyway.

My experience with EZ-Track #5+ turnouts was pretty good, but every one of them got that way by placing a small piece of wooden match stick, or equivalent, between the open point and its stock rail, and then filing the bejaysus out of the very tip until it was very sharp. This must be done methodically, patiently, and gently, but it will take many long minutes to get the point to be very long and thin. The wood spacer is important, though, and once again, go easy.

Also, you would have nothing to lose, and everything to gain, by using a thin drift pin and a small hammer and giving any of those pivots a moderatly sharp rap to try to compress them a wee bit more. Ideally, it should be done on a work bench where the nether side of the area you are going to stress could be supported by a thin block of wood...otherwise you really could do a lot of damage to the turnout. My thought is, if it really is worn, or nearly worn out, you have nothing to lose by experimenting.

The points, themselves pivot slightly on their throwbar. If these are getting sloppy, then the points filing we are suggesting is going to be of little use. The points are tilting away from the stock rails, maybe even due to both ends since both pivot. Really, its a poor construction.

If you replace your turnouts, try Atlas, or if you decide it is time to start over and rething your basic design and approach to modelling, take a serious look at Peco Streamline Code 83. (not sure if Peco makes N-scale turnouts...never looked, sorry).
 
I can attest that a peco turnout is of better quality than the atlas. I have one peco turnout on my layout the rest are atlas. out of all my turnouts the peco is the only one that has never caused a derailent..go figure. The atlas turnout are affordable but are built with costs in mind. Next time I build a layout its going to be with all peco turnouts!
 
I Replaced the Turnout w/ Atlas Code 80

"It appears to me that your left point in the photo you provided is misaligned with the closure rail." Wow. Good call. I didn't see that. Upon closer inspection, 5 of 7 of the turnouts exhibit poor alignment on the left side.

I understand the "notch" bit. I note that the Atlas turnout has this as well. Good idea to use a match stick to hold the pivot out when filing it. That makes it way easier to file, I hadn't thought of that.

If I have to file the pivots, and then "notch" them, it'd be easier to remove the old turnout and replace it with one that is ready to go. So as a test case, that's what I did with this one turnout. I replaced the Bachmann turnout with an Atlas Code 80. It slipped right in no problem.

Atlas.JPG

I still need to clean it up some.

I've read good things about the Peco products but I don't think it would drop right into my existing layout. But like Imackattack said "Next time..."

So far the trains are running over the new turnout just fine but hanging up on the other older ones. I'm thinking the best way to go for me is to just replace all the old turnouts. I was surprised by how easy it was to do that.

Again a big "Thanks" to everyone that responded. I hope that I am allowed to ask more stupid questions in the future when I get ready to go DCC.
 
Peco Turnouts

Update:

I have acquired a Peco Universal Code 80 turnout and it will mate up with the EZ Track or Atlas turnouts just fine. This Peco part #SL-396, an Insulfrog Medium Radius. The Peco turnout has a spring on it that really snaps the frogs shut.

I'm going to cut out one of the worn Bachmann turnouts and solder the Peco in. From all looks of it, this should be fairly simple to do. Agree with previous posters that the Peco are a little more money but they look to be worth it and should drop in with little trouble. If this one works out as well as I anticipate, I will be replacing all the old turnouts with Peco.

Thanks again for all your help.
 
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