Trimming turnouts

[frog]

Looks like I am going to have to shorten one of my turnouts in order to have an acceptable (18 rad) curve.

It is the type where the inner track is an 18 rad and the other is a straight. The part I am going to have to trim is the end from the points.

Problem is when I laid my track I thought the turnout was curved all throughout, not noting the short section of straight track at the end. This led to a sharper curve than 18 rad which goes into a tunnel.

Only way to achieve a centerline entry into the tunnel will be to trim the turnout. I don't see a problem with this, the rail joiners will be one cross tie from the ends of the points.

All my locos go through this okay except my SD's (4).

The turnout should still work okay afterwards I hope?

If you think not I'll leave it as is, will be lots of work to complete it but no problem with that.

 

[OCN Guy]

What I've noticed is, to make turnouts work a little, you usually have to either cut a fitter piece (curved) or add a 3/4" straight piece to make all the curves work.
You can also just add some flex track right to the existing turnout, and then shape it into an 18" radius. That's probably the easiest solution.

 

[frog]

I have a fixed 18 rad curved section feeding right off from the turnout. From there it is joined by flex coming out of the tunnel. The problem is that in having the 18 rad curve all the way to the tunnel it will be too far to center the track going into the tunnel.

Only option would be to trim some of the straight track from the end of the turnout in order to start the curve early enough to have a workable entry into the tunnel.

By looking at it you can hardly tell, I made a template that shows the point where the track is too sharp a bend--right after coming off the fixed 18 rad curve section.

Of course I don't have an extra right hand turnout on hand in case I ruin the one I have. As soon as I visit a distant hoby shop I will get the needed items to use as back up if needed.
As it is, it is only slightly less than 18 rad. My E-7 goes through with no problem. Apparently the Proto-2000 is a bit more forgiving than the Athearn.

 

[trailrider]

What brand and code track and turnout are you using? If you haven't already installed the flex track in the tunnel and the turnout to the rest of the layout, you might try the following:

1) Connect the flex track, NOT curved yet to the points end of the turnout with metal track connectors.
2) Solder the connectors so the flex track is solid with the turnout.
3) Turn the assembly over and using a razor saw, cut the plastic pieces connecting the ties (NOT the ties themselves) on the rail that is on the OUTSIDE of the curve (careful, the thing is upside down.) CAUTION: Cut ONLY up to the point beyond at least ONE tie away from the points. Leave at least one and if possible two ties solidly attached to the headblock ties (the ones guiding the throwbar).
4) GENTLY start curving the flex track into the 18" radius curvature. (I would probably use 18" radius sectional track for at least the first section connected to the turnout, but if you don't have any, then the above should work. JUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO MISALIGN THE STOCK RAILS ON THE TURNOUT.

Hope this helps.

Green boards all the way!

Trailrider

 

[frog]

That's what I am going to have to do.

Code 100 rail, turnouts are nickle silver, possibly Bachman, nothing fancy. I plan to leave enough of the bridged ties not to impede with the function of the throw. The first section from the turnout is a fixed 18 rad curved piece, brass, plan on replacing it with either nickle flex or fixed curve nickle.

The pain will be removing the turnout, would not have to do it except to cut the plastic tie bridges, hard to do unless you do it from the bottom. The whole turnout is hardwired, even the points are wired to the rails as not to have to rely on the rivets to conduct electrical flow.

A major fix but good in the long run. Best thing it is at the best location for me to reach with ease.

Made up a template to hold the rails in place, will be able to put in a slight easement even, more so on the end going into the tunnel. At least I'll have fun.

 

[Selector]

You might be further ahead to just order a Peco curved turnout.

Alternatively, a combination of trimming the ingress to the points and actually bending the two rail stubs that provide the turnout's ingress to the points is an option. This has to be done carefully, and slowly so that you don't end up breaking it or going to far. Better to afford yourself a couple of degrees of curvature than having to trim the turnout and still having to live with the better part of a kink where the proper curve of flex is finally forced to join the turnout.