Track questions


S

sra4031

New Member
I am trying to figure out how to proceed with track. I see tracks made out of 3 different metals, 2 different codes, and by different manufactures. I see things like ez track, snap track, coupler tracks, etc....., and then there is molded tracks, and flex tracks.

I am wondering what should I look for. I plan on staying in the hobby once I get into it, and expanding. Going to start with a DCC kit from Walthers that usess the Bachman snap track. I am interested in flex tracks but not sure how they are.

Foundation is important when building anything. I do not want to get started and then have to rip up the entire layout and start over. I will eventually use switches, and run multiple trains as I grow.

Thanks
Jason
 
This is a complex subject with lots of opinions, but here are some basics. There are three different metals, nickel-silver, brass, and steel. Most people use the nickel-silver because it looks more realistic and is less subject to corrosion. Brass conducts electricity better but requires more regular cleaning in my experience. Either one looks good after weathering. Steel track in my experience is more subject to rusting unless you live in Arizona. There are more than two codes which refer to the height of the rail in 1/1000ths of an inch. Code 100 used to be the standard and is .100" tall. It is extremely forgiving but is too tall for prototypical rail. Code 83 is becoming more popular and is .083" tall. This is closer to most mainline rail. There is a code 70 and code 55 rail available which is smaller and is suitable for sidings and spurs; or for railroads that are modeled 100 years ago when equipment was much smaller. There is more variety in turnouts, crossings, and other stuff in code 100 although code 83 is rapidly catching up. Code 100 typically is less expensive in my area. Different manufacturers track is interchangeable with other manufacturers track as long as the code is the same. The exception to this is the molded track. While I have no direct experience with it, I have read on this and other forums that it doesn't work together. It is basically snap-track with a molded roadbed attached. Snap track is short pieces of straight and curved track usually around 9" long. The curves come in multiple radii usually 15", 18", and 22". I am beginning to see some larger radius track lately. Flex track is generally 36" long and as its name implies , it "flexes" to any radius you want. It can be used for straight sections as well. The advantage to flex track is that there are fewer joints between pieces so you don't need as many power connections. I would recommend using primarily flex track in whatever code you feel comfortable with; and use a commercially available roadbed, the most popular being cork, rather than using the molded track. Whatever you use will work best if power connections are made to each piece of track.
willie
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry, one of my dogs jumped on my lap and Kindle while I was replying.

To get a really good understanding of the basics of this great hobby it will take a while and a good bit of time spent reading. After a while things will start to come together and make sense. As you said, foundation is important.

What scale do you plan to model in? Some of the names that you mentioned are basically the same thing, just different manufacturers way of saying it.

Code is the thickness or height of the rail in thousandths of an inch. Code 80 is. 080" high and code 55 is. 055" tall. This corresponds to the sizes of prototype track but offhand I can't say what the sizes are.

Check for tutorials on Youtube, there are many good ones and also some poor ones. Generally speaking the better quality ones are the ones with the best info. Buy a copy of Model Railroader magazine or Railway Model Craftsman magazine. Check out http://mrr.trains.com/. There is a lot of helpful info for the beginner there. Hope this helps.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Burlington Bob said:
Sorry, one of my dogs jumped on my lap and Kindle while I was replying.

...
Click to expand...

Been there, and once they know they have your attention, or that they have succeeded in co-opting it, they are merciless. Please step away froooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooom theeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee computer. LOL!

Very good explanations so far. Nickel silver oxidizes, just like brass and steel, but unlike those two, the oxide is marginally conductive. You don't actually HAVE TO clean it, providing there isn't other crud involved. Other crud typically is a black tarry substance that appears at gaps and where a metal tire lifts enough from the uneven tracks that there is arcing.

With some determination and know-how, you can adjust all types of track to serve you, even when matched up with another brand or code. What you can't do is to get older 'pizza-cutter' flanges to ride over Code 83 and less without the cars bouncing and bucking as the flanges make contact with objects near the rail feet. Say the plastic spike head details. While that looks silly, and is annoying, it won't do your locomotives any good, either. They need constant contact with the rails.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
sra4031 said:
I am trying to figure out how to proceed with track. I see tracks made out of 3 different metals, 2 different codes, and by different manufactures. I see things like ez track, snap track, coupler tracks, etc....., and then there is molded tracks, and flex tracks.

I am wondering what should I look for. I plan on staying in the hobby once I get into it, and expanding. Going to start with a DCC kit from Walthers that usess the Bachman snap track. I am interested in flex tracks but not sure how they are.

Foundation is important when building anything. I do not want to get started and then have to rip up the entire layout and start over. I will eventually use switches, and run multiple trains as I grow.

Thanks
Jason
Click to expand...

You seem to be new, so welcome to the forums.

Anyways, depending on your scale (I'm doing HO scale), the code # is basically the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch. For example, code 83 means the rail is 0.083" tall. BTW, Code 83 is closest to prototypical height. IMO, you should look at Atlas. They make pretty good rail and stuff like that..Anyways a lot of people use flex track and - as you already know - it bends to your liking. All you do with flex track is lay it out, and nail it down. But...It does require track cutting tools. Always will. Unless you cut it with a knife, somehow...:D TIP FOR TURNOUTS: #4 is really 4.5! ;) That's all, but if you need more, lemme know...I'll see what my brain knows about it :D Also, include your scale - it's important! All my examples are shown HO scale. Hope this helped - atleast a bit ;)
 
By Selector;

Been there, and once they know they have your attention, or that they have succeeded in co-opting it, they are merciless.
Click to expand...

My little toy poodle. Good thing we love him and his brother like they were our own kids. Well, I'll admit it, they are our kids now that our "real" ones are grown and married!:p
 
Bob,

I will be doing HO scale. Was not sure if all tracks was interchangeable or proprietary. Also did not want to start getting into more complex layouts to find my track was not compatiable. I will check out the site you mentioned.
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but only the Atlas Snap Switch is a 4 1/2, their Custom Line is an actual # 4 as is other manufacturers. The reason is that it can be substituted (w/a 1/3 18" curve) for an 18" curve piece of snap track. I use mostly Atlas code 100 nickel-silver since that was all that was reasonably available 30 years ago and I can't afford to change to anything else. I am real happy with it. You sometimes have to tweak their turnouts to eliminate flaws, but after a few years it becomes second nature. Some batches are better than others. After weathering and ballasting, it is hard to tell the difference between it and code 83. It has been hit or miss recently because of the China supply problems; fortunately I have plenty used track to use.
willie
 
santafewillie said:
Correct me if I am wrong, but only the Atlas Snap Switch is a 4 1/2, their Custom Line is an actual # 4 as is other manufacturers. ...
Click to expand...

Nope, the Atlas turnout sold as a #4, is the one that's a #4.5.

Their snap switch has no relation to a number at all, as the entire diverging route is simply an 18" radius curve. On the numbered turnouts, the curved section in the turnout is just a couple of inches long, with the rest of the diverging route straight.
 
Cjcrescent said:
Nope, the Atlas turnout sold as a #4, is the one that's a #4.5.

Their snap switch has no relation to a number at all, as the entire diverging route is simply an 18" radius curve. On the numbered turnouts, the curved section in the turnout is just a couple of inches long, with the rest of the diverging route straight.
Click to expand...
Oooops! Was making a comment....then noticed I was using a different scale.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
With the right railjoiner, most of the different company's tracks can be joined together. I'd definitly stay away from the steel rail.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top