Track Brands

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A

agraas

New Member
This is my 1st post... I'm building my 2nd HO layout. The 1st was over 30 years ago, and a lot has changed. The threads on track brands have been helpful.

My layout will be an 8' X 11' "L", code 83 track, 18" radius on branches, with 22" on the mainline, with a helix, cork roadbed, and DCC. I was thinking of using sectional track on the curves and flex on the straights. Seems Atlas is favored? If so, what type of Atlas track/turnouts are the most reliable and realistic? Other brand recommendations? Can you mix brands without problems? What type of turnouts are the most reliable with DCC?

Thank you for any help! Alan Graas, Yosemite Nat'l Park
 
First of all, I would strongly recommend you increase your mininum radius to at least 24" so you don't run into problems trying to run long equipment. ie. passenger cars.

Second, you can use flex track on the curves, in fact it's preferable because you can play with the radius a bit and not be restricted to the sectional curve.

We need more information on what you plan to model. What era? Steam, modern diesels?

Probably a good idea to post your available space including doors, windows, etc. Then we can give you some ideas for a track plan.

Do you want continuous running? or a switching point-to-point layout? Do you like operating it like a real railroad, or just like watching trains run through scenery, mountains, tunnels, etc.

As far as track, Atlas is good, so is Walthers, and Peco. The Peco switches are the most reliable, but are the most expensive also.

What DCC system are you planning on getting? The NCE system is great for beginners, and easy to learn.
 
Welcome back to the hobby, Yes alot has changed. I was out of it for about 7 years and it was impressive what we have now...

I personaly run 18-22" radius on my small home layout. I did not want to use Flex track as I have always had bad luck with it when put into a tight radius. Seams that after a few years of it trying to bend back the joints cause derails. But I have recently seen a way (shown on this board by tooter? I think thats who showed us) that you bend one rail first then have it hold its radius for you. that may work well but I have not tried it yet. Anyways I used sectional track and have not had trouble with it. After I added ballast it looks good and it kinda helps represent my era of the late 40s-early 60s when welded rail was not as common. I have used flex track on large radius and think it works perfect. As long as the flex is not forced into a radius that it is not happy with you should be ok. Also depending on what the track is nailed,glued to etc... may or may not be an issue. If you nail it to wood it wont budge. glue it to foam and the glue lets up. your asking for trouble.

I used atlas (again) on my 2nd layout and sware I will never use them again. they work after some tweaks but still cause alot of issues.Im not happy with them.


just my .02
Trent
 


I use flextrack for it more seemless transision in curves. also it can make customs radius.
Just remember the weld the join of the flextrack before laying them in a curve
Atlas turnout can be a nighmare if you get the one that are out of gauge or have bad frog
 
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Thanks for the great info, guys! I didn't give much info about my planned layout, but it will feature a "tourist" logging line running 3-truck shays (as is currently running near Oakhurst, CA) and a commercial ore line, connecting with a continuous running SP line in the early 1950's. No long passenger cars, thus the tighter radii. I'm not trying to be protypical. For an idea of what I have in mind for the logging part, look at Marty Bradley's incredible logging layout at www.oakhurstrailroad.com. I have...with them. Alan Graas, Yosemite Nat'l Park
 
If you decide to go with the Peco turnouts, you might as well get their switch machines also. The PL-10W is made for DCC.

I have 24 of them on my layout, with switch machines, all remotely controlled with the throttle. They work great, and are easy to install, they fit directly under the switch. I cut small holes into a foam layer and drop the switch machines in there and you can't even see them.

The accessory stationary decoders I use are the NCE snap-it's.
 
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