Yes I'd read about the Pine Sol, but I really am wondering if it's worth the hassle of stripping it seeing as the factory paint coat is so thin & I'd have to put a coat of primer on anyway which would probably take to about the same thickness before the top coat..
Bleeding I doubt would be a problem as the home road colour scheme is black..
I'm a couple of weeks away from painting yet either way if anybody else would like to chip in with their thoughts/experiences...
I wasn't talking about bleeding, it won't do that, but you'll be able to see the original lettering numbers, and possibly stripes and so forth in relief. There are minute differences in profile that will show through any color. I found this out the hard way painting over factory painted refrigerator cars. I could see road names, heralds, and so forth under the new paint. If you want to portray a patched model this might be OK, but if you want to portray a new loco in your home road, it might not. That's up to you.
STRIP IT!
Liek espee says, the relief of the lettering can show through the paint, particularly if you spary thin coats (as you should).
I've used Kresto Painters hand cleaner, 91% rubbing alcohol, Easy Off Oven cleaner (original formula), and even brake fluid to strip paint. Kresto and Easy Off should take the lettering right off.
Rotor
Rotor, you can't use brake fluid or Easy Off on Kato shells apparently, brake fluid doesn't work at all (something to do with the paint composition?) & Easy Off makes the shell very brittle & liable to cracking from what I've read...