The slow build of the un-named railroad


Pom in Oz said:
Hello toot, thanks for your input, i think that has made my mind up on the swing bridge, gutted to lose it as i was looking forward to having it on the layout. I think i'll finish building it and stick it up for sale and use the money to buy a couple standard truss bridges.

I've been over London bridge a few times having worked as a sparky all over that area, i don't think my scratch building skills are up to the challenge just yet.

Cheers
Darren
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Actually it wasn't London bridge I was thinking of (doh!), it was Tower bridge and even that doesn't lift in the manner I was thinking of. A single span lift bridge was what I had in mind operating like this
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vertical-lift_bridge and strangely enough there is one in Tasmania
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bridgewater_Causeway_Crop.jpg
What do you think, would certainly be a stunning centerpiece (literally)if you could pull it off.
 
Mmmmmmm the Bridgewater bridge looks awesome but i'll be back to my original dilemma of having to lower my tracks to make it look realistic, i think i'll leave the bridge section for a while and concentrate on the rest of the port area.

Have tried designing a section for switching industries on my layout but not sure if i'm heading in the right direction so i'll post it up and ask for some advice on how to tidy it up.

Cheers

Darren
 
Evening all, i'm still slowly building when family, work and other duties don't get in the way.
I'm after some help, around Adelaide we have 2 car DMU's as in the picture and i was wondering if there was a US version of this as i would like to add a small terminus at my port.

Thanks for any help

Darren
 
Hey John, thanks for that, i was starting to wonder if the US used them as all my searches came up with european or Australian prototypes, now to find a HO version of the Budd Car

Cheers

Darren
 
Thanks Toot, not having ordered anything from the states since I've moved to Aus, is there anything I should be wary of in regards to custom charges or other charges?
Thanks
Darren
 
Pom in Oz said:
Thanks Toot, not having ordered anything from the states since I've moved to Aus, is there anything I should be wary of in regards to custom charges or other charges?
Thanks
Darren
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Aus would have some of the most relaxed, if not the most relaxed, import restrictions for private importers. You're allowed to import up to $1000 in any one purchase (and there doesn't seem to be a restriction on how often) without paying duty or GST, something that is annoying the hell out of the bricks and mortar establishment who of course have to add those things into their prices.

The drawback is the mailing costs for low volumes, i.e. it's not that much more to bring in 10 locos than 2.

The store who's link I showed is one of the best (I rate them the best) for prices, excellent packaging, service and their mailing price always seems to beat anyone else. I always use the USPS priority mail international option. It offers tracking to the point of entry in Aus, and usually takes about 7-10 days to land it. After that it's in the hands of Aus Post. Over a certain value (not high), you have to sign for the package on delivery, pretty safe.

Oh yes, there website is the best by a country mile to search, find, see what you're buying and how many are in stock, and then buy. No one else comes close.
 
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I just tried a search on eBay for "Budd RDC" and found plenty of items at various prices and quality levels.
 
Thanks Toot for the info, looks like an early xmas present to me :), the first thing i did was check ebay John but nothing in sunny Oz, i want some other bits and pieces so i'll make up an order soon and go shopping.

Thanks
 
Toot, that is awesome!, but i'd be tempted to try and bolt a couple rc jet engines to it and end up with an expensive pile of molten plastic on wheels;)
 
Evening all, picked up a loco a while back and thought i'd blow the dust off of it and see if it runs (bought cheap in the uk before i moved to Oz), i put it on the rollers, set the address and off she went. I noticed the rear wheels were trying to jump off the rollers so i dismantled the rear truck and noticed the small black gear between the wheels had a crack.

I need to find another axle but i don't know what the type of loco it is and what brand. Stamped on the fuel tank is 'life like, walthers, made in china' i've searched on the interweb and found similar models but this one seems very well detailed with a crew, see through fans on the top and lots of fiddly bits all over.

Any help identifying the loco or where i can source another axle would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Darren
 
Sounds like whats more commonly called a Proto 2000 or P2K for short. They're probably either at work over there at the moment or busy with other chores etc. Pretty sure the gears are the same as Athearn (or can be used). Jeffrey-Wimberley is the loco "hot rodder" so failing all else, give him a PM.
 
Thanks Toot, now i know what to look for i'll start searching the interweb again.
Is this common on Proto2000 models? Shame if it is because they are great looking locos and wouldn't mind buying a couple more.
 
Pom in Oz said:
Thanks Toot, now i know what to look for i'll start searching the interweb again.
Is this common on Proto2000 models? Shame if it is because they are great looking locos and wouldn't mind buying a couple more.
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From what I've read on here, yes it can be a fault on P2K's. I've got a few, most of them recently and new, haven't had it happen yet (touch wood).

I like them, very well detailed and smooth runners. In DC they seem to require more current to get them moving (bit like sound equipped) and are harder to speed match with other brands, both in DC and DCC. If you're interested check out MB Klein's offerings
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Dies...1460&brand=Walthers+Proto+2000&show=30&page=1

By comparison with Internet Trains.com they are still cheaper on the GP20's being offered on special there. Klein's have also got some of the GP60's in both DCC and standard DC (the last GP to be built). As you have DCC I would suggest getting Proto's with it and sound, factory installed as the standard DC may have (was so in the GP20 I got) a different frame/chassis without spaces made to accept speakers.
 
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Thanks for the info, i don't know if the budget will stretch to sound but i'll ask the one that holds the purse strings and see what she thinks, i'm not anywhere near ready to run a loco yet so it will give me plenty of time to save a few dollars.
 
I know the feeling. There are ways to fit DCC + sound to a DC loco, just may need a bit of frame modification etc.
 
Hey all, with having to work extra hours and family commitments i'm spending even less time in the garage but i did manage to repair the loco with the broken axle, i have a small train shop 5 mins away that i thought i'd try, much to the owners surprise he had a new axle and gear in his parts drawer, $2 for the axle and $30 for a proto gondola kit i thought i'd try, dangerous past time visiting these shops with cash in your pocket :) .

I have started work on the bridge section of the layout after scrapping the swing bridge idea, i have used some woodland scenics rock moulds and plaster of paris to start building up the scenery, the concrete centre pillar is 50mm plumbing pipe with sections scribed into it and then weathered with acrylic paints, lots more work to be done on this section.

I have also tried my hand at weathering a box car i had, i've started with oil paints and have yet to seal them and give it a dusting of grime with the air brush, still have the wheels, trucks and under carriage to do but enjoying this side of the hobby.

Cheers

Darren
 
By Pom in Oz;

dangerous past time visiting these shops with cash in your pocket
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Truer words were never spoken!!!

I think the bridge is going to look better like this and you've done a great job with the weathering.
 
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