The benchwork has me stumped


Athlon

N Scale Dreamer
After searching here and all over the 'net all day all I've done is confuse myself... Most web sites have incomplete photos of what is under the layout and I'm hindered with a visual type brain. If I can see it, I can most likely build it, otherwise I'm totally lost.

I'm ready to start my benchwork, but I'm stuck on exactly how to design it before I run off to my local lumber store with a list of what I need.

Here are my thoughts so far. I'm very much interested to hear from those of you who have been there/done that before I screw things up (bad pun intended). :eek:

Because my track will have no grades on my layout I'm guessing a tabletop of 3/8" plywood topped with 1" foam ( maybe 2" ? ) will server me well. I'm stuck however on how to support it.

1) I've been reading all day about open grid vs. L-girder. I'm leaning toward open grid because of the solid top idea, but I'm not sure on how to plan for the legs and cross braces etc.

2) If open grid do I build two tables and bolt them together to form the "L" shape of my layout?

3) Or would I be better off and do L-girder in an "L" shape.

4) If I did the "L", then do I just attach the plywood to the girders and eliminate the joists?

By the way, I will want to be able to move the table out from the wall at times. (The wall is at the upper and left sides of the diagram.)

Thanks,

Dave
 
Here is what I did:

DSC03372_zpsfec6f84d.jpg


DSC03373_zpscba4144a.jpg


I then put 3/4" foam on top of it. I need to put diagonal braces on the legs, they are going to be 2' long and brace between the legs and the frame at a 45deg angle.
 
Table top

There are many opinions on this subject and many methods that all work very well.
I just did a table layout for a friend where I built two 3 x 5 frames out of 1x3 with two cross members in each. I then used 1/8 plywood veneer toped with 2" foam. Glued it all down with liquid nails for projects. This fit perfectly into the frames. Lightweight, easy to move, and gives all sorts of possibilities for scenery above and below track level. Also alot cheaper than 3/8 plywood.
 
I have built two layouts now with clear spruce 1X4 outer frame with two or more joists of the same lumber inside the frame/box. To support 1" foam bonded to 3/8" ply below it, I would be looking at 14" centers. The legs would be 1X2 blocked up into the corners with wood screws and diagonally braced with the same material or plywood gussets...take your pick.

I did use L-girder on the first layout because I wanted it super strong, expecially the yard module on which I would be kneeling a lot during completion. I can't say that decision was right or wrong, but I have no regrets. I used 1X4 for the vertical component and either ripped halves or actual 1X2 as the horizontal component, always glued AND screwed with 1.5" screws for insurance. Once again, may have been overmuch, but I didn't have any 'D'Oh!!" moments afterward. The top for the yard was 5/8 G1S ply, and that sucker didn't budge.

Go light, build well/smart, and you'll save money and enjoy the experience. It doesn't hurt to construct it as if it will be taken apart and moved...who knows what the next five months will bring.
 
Here is what I did:

DSC03372_zpsfec6f84d.jpg


DSC03373_zpscba4144a.jpg


I then put 3/4" foam on top of it. I need to put diagonal braces on the legs, they are going to be 2' long and brace between the legs and the frame at a 45deg angle.
Thats pretty much the same as what I did but I used a softer grade of MDF and only glued foam on where I wanted to build the scenery up. Being MDF you dont need much bracing under it because there is no tendency to warp and you can walk on it. Next time I will use ply on an L-girder so its lighter and easy to build grades.
 
Here is what I did:

DSC03373_zpscba4144a.jpg

Thank you all for replying - all good stuff.

HardcoreABN: Does your table sag at all where there is no leg in the front middle corner? Mine will not be as wide as yours (only 30"), so I'm curious.

After seeing your pictures I'm leaning toward L-girder without the top joists. The plywood will likely eliminate the need for them.

-Dave
 



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