Stripping/Repainting Engines & Front Range Quality?


N

NIevo

Member
Well I've almost given up on someone releasing a model of a BN GP9 in HO. I have been trying to find a undec. Proto 2000 engine with no luck ( for less then $125!). So I've narrowed it down to 2 choices.

1. Buy a GP9 off eBay decorated for a less common and not in demand roadname and repaint it. I have seen several go for less then $50. My question is how easy is it to repaint an engine thats already decorated? What is a good way to strip the paint or can you just paint right over the old stuff?

2. Buy a old Front Range shell for a GP9 and power it. These Ive seen for less the $25. How good were these models and what is the best way to power them? Id like to use a Proto 2000 power unit, there are 3 on eBay right now for $12.
 
You can also buy the front range shell from A-line. They're $28, but you won't have to worry about missing parts.
http://ppw-aline.com/bdfrgp7.htm

I have two Front Range/Train station products/Trains Unlimited (was offered under a number of names) GP9's, and I love them. Better then Athearn or Walther's GP9's, though just a tad behind P2K units. The DB area is easy to swap, though I'd recommend cementing it in place.

http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/reviewpost/showproduct.php/product/61/cat/4
 
I've got 8 Front Range Geeps all in Nickel Plate, they don't run too bad. I ran them in units of 4 with 60-70 cars.
 
Does anyone know if the Front Range shell will fit over a Proto 2000 frame and motor?

BTW: Just won a brand new, never opened Proto 2000 GP9 decorated for Reading on eBay for $35!! Looks like I'll be stripping it and painting my first engine!
 
NIevo said:
1. My question is how easy is it to repaint an engine thats already decorated? What is a good way to strip the paint or can you just paint right over the old stuff?
Click to expand...
NIevo,
Stripping a shell in 91%alcohol is what I use.
Make sure you put the shell in a container that has a lid or the alcohol will evaporate and lose it's stripping power.

For repainting if you have an airbrush find a line of paints that you like, and paint away. BN is a decently easy paint scheme, and Microscale makes the decals.

Good luck,
Smoke
 
What I did was go to a Big Box store and spend the money on an airtight Rubbermaid bowl with lid. Made sure it was fairly deep, to cover the shell. When I got home, I put the shell inside and filled it with the stripping agent of choice (I was doing a blue-box F7 shell, so I used brake fluid). Put cover back on and let sit for XXXXXX amount of time. Scrub with toothbrush.

Afterwards, since I'm a cheapskate, I filtered out the residue using cheesecloth and put the brake fluid back into the container and resealed it. It's been sitting on the shelf for years, and there's still a good amount left inside, but I'll probably get fresh stuff if I need to do other stripping....

Kennedy
 
I use a tall glass wine canister. The kind that seals at the top with a metal clamp. It is tall enough to fit engines and 89' cars and about 4" around. I poured a couple bottles of Scale Coat stripper in it and just drop the shell in for a couple hours, scub it with an old tooth brush, rise and repeat as needed. I've been using the same stripper for about 5 years now. Still works great.
 
Depending on the part size, I've been using an inverted cover from a Malibu Semi, or a cut off shampoo bottle.

I start with a lengthy bath in Pine-Sol, once the majority of the paint is gone, I drop the part in 91% Isopropyl, to remove the last little bits.
 
Hey guys, if ya use that 91% alc. (Isopropal I think its called) then how long would ya leave a shell in there for and what would happen if ya left it in there to long? I have 12 loco shells to do since I am going to try my own fictional railroad. I also have an old athearn BB model blue n yellow SF GP-40 with the handrails already painted and installed...whats the easiest way around this to strip and repaint that? Thanks for any input,
CM
 
How about the Pine-Sol bath? How much time in there and then in the alcohol? :confused:

I just picked up a GP38-2 Proto 2K and am also looking for a repaint
 
Pine-sol, original, works great, I let it soak for about half an hour and rub it with a medium bristle boot brush, make sure the brush you use has pine-sol on it though. Some brands take around an hour, however I've found Athearn Santa Fe warbonnets to take around 6 hours.
 
Not that I've seen myself, with my units. I'd avoid trying to strip the plastic handrails though.
 
OK...now question #2, I got an ebay deal on a pwd n dmy set of NS op. lifesaver SD40-2's athearn BB of course, are these just the decals printed on a undecorated BB model or would I have to strip the whole shell? Thanks guys
CM
 
They're pad printed. If you use a q-tip and some 91% isopropyl, it should come off after some rubbing. There's a gel based model railroad stripper on the market too, that promises to remove lettering, lemme find the link.
 
Sorry to hi-jack, but will 91% isopropyl alcohol hurt the styrene on Cannon and Co detail parts? Any experience with it and Detail Associates detail parts?
 
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