Stirrup steps - scratch or Tichy OR?

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Are the stirrups on the gondola the proper size? Why I ask is because I'm not familiar with modern rolling stock and they seem to stand out a tad too large. Correct me if I'm wrong. If they are not to scale, you could easily replace those with brass ones.

The general stirrup steps on plastic cars, eg. Athearn seem thick and even so I have wound up with a number of cars having ones broken off.

The Tichy made steps seem very fine and I am sure close to exact scale but must be a bear to install - any hints???

Is there another alternative or practical method to scratch something in between the 2 options??

thanks ,,, ken
 


I've been using commercial stirrup steps (mostly A-Line) for years on all my rollingstock. Why bend your own when the commercial versions are so cheap and absolutely uniform in size and shape? All the commercial versions are very easy to install, in my opinion, and have rounded, not flat, ends so that they fit a drilled hole in the car body much tighter/better.

NYW&B
 
I've been using commercial stirrup steps (mostly A-Line) for years on all my rollingstock. Why bend your own when the commercial versions are so cheap and absolutely uniform in size and shape? All the commercial versions are very easy to install, in my opinion, and have rounded, not flat, ends so that they fit a drilled hole in the car body much tighter/better.

NYW&B

I think I've used them years ago on some Accurail box cars when I carved off the moulded on ladders, grab irons, and stirrups and replaced them with commercial ones made out of brass. Good to know you can still buy those.
Now I only have one car in my fleet with moulded on details, which is an Accurail 3 bay hopper. Will take the scalpel to it someday.
Cheers.
 
Take a look at the most recent Accurail hoppers. End platforms and stirrup steps are one piece, molded in nice thin flexible plastic. Very nice and very durable. They need to be cleaned in Dawn and hot water to take paint best.
 
A fast way is using bits of brass ladder stock. Point the ends to make a nice press-fit into drilled holes in the flooring.

These are very sturdy. The model is an old scratchbuilt boxcar that's in the repaint shop. The brass ladder stock is rather crude for ladders, by today's standards, but it makes nice stirrup steps.
 
Another suggestion for a quick and dirty improvement is to take a very fine small needle file to the inside of the stirrup steps and file out about half the plastic. Use a fine point Sharpie to color the parts of the step facing the car body black. Not as good as a complete replacement but a big improvement over the plastic blobs. :)
 


Thanks for the suggestions, one more question

Thanks for all the suggestions and one more question -- for now:)

Picked up some A-line brass stirrups.
I assume from the appearance that a hole is to be drilled vertically into the edge of the shell, parallel to the car end and side.

Sounds simple but any hints on keeping it straight and centered??

thanks ,,, ken
 
Eyeball is as good as anything unless you have an accurate drill press and know how to set it all up.

Start with an undersize drill to get it centered and then ream out the hole with the proper size.

Occasionally, with some thin-walled cars like the old Front Range (iirc), I have glued a pad to the inside to give me enough material to drill for the step, and then sometimes took a small notch out of the underframe to clear.
 
This is a good example of where a pin vise is really needed. Using a Dremel is almost guaranteed to give you crooked holes and probably scratch up the car also. I dip the two ends of the step in india ink and then press it up against the car bottom, so I have some drill markers. Once you know you've got it straight and true, it's easy to wipe off the india ink with a damp paper towel.
 
QUOTE: "Using a Dremel is almost guaranteed to give you crooked holes "

True! Dremel designs have long been one of my pet-peeves.
OPINION:
Even the lowest speed setting is useless for plastic unless you want melted blobs on your drillbits. I've used a small "Variac" for speed control and a footpedal switch to tame these things down to something that works better.

The slowest speed setting on my Dremel model 595 is waaaay too fast for any plastic or wood work. Plus the control is in the least possible ergonomic location. A footpedal switch makes it far safer to use as a result.
 




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