Spectrum Doodlebug


I hope so. I just hope it runs well lol. I am planning on just running it around my outside loop by itself.
 
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RCShadow:

Nice model and worth the purchase price.

I have a Bachmann Doodlebug still in the box after maybe 7 or 8 years. But, I do run a Walter's SOO Line doodlebug that I installed DCC and a LED for the headlight. Its a great runner and will pull several cars.

Doodlebugs are great for smaller layouts to provide some type of passenger service along with freight.

Thanks for sharing.

Greg
 
RCShadow:

Nice model and worth the purchase price.

I have a Bachmann Doodlebug still in the box after maybe 7 or 8 years. But, I do run a Walter's SOO Line doodlebug that I installed DCC and a LED for the headlight. Its a great runner and will pull several cars.

Doodlebugs are great for smaller layouts to provide some type of passenger service along with freight.

Thanks for sharing.

Greg

Thanks for the input Greg. As long as it will pull itself along well on my suspended layout, I will be happy. I do understand that only one set of trucks are powered though which causes concern on my part. Time will tell though...it always seems to.

Thank you again.
 
I ordered one when they first came out years ago, an undecorated version I lettered for my freelance railroad. Long passenger trains wouldn't show up on a short line railroad like mine.

IMAG0293.jpg It's not a bad running unit, but a bit noisy before some tweaking. Sometimes I may put a passenger car on for a trailer. The only other equipment I have for local passenger service is an NP RDC with a club car for a trailer, or a drovers caboose on a local freight.

IMAG0048_BURST002.jpgIMAG0266.jpg

I have a number of NP North Coast limited passenger cars, but the only way I could figure out to have them on my layout is to have them as a special "tourist train" taking passengers south to Yellowstone Park. It sure is nice to freelance.
 
Those are some awesome pictures of your layout montanan. Very, very nice.

Could you share what tweaking you did to your Doodlebug? I don't like noisy engines. I have been applying ATF with a toothpick to my F7's and they are as silent as can be. I have some geeps but don't run them too often at all but they got the same treatment.
 
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It's hard to explain the tweaking. It all depends on the locomotive and the drive train it has. I find that many times things can be a bit tight, or many times I'll put it on a test track after disassembling the drive train, lubricating it sparingly and letting it fun for a few hours on a test stand. It can vary from locomotive to locomotive. Hopefully I won't need any more locomotives unless I can find a nice Mike (2-8-2) or two. I really have enough. (Yea, right)

You can print custom decals on decal paper on a computer. I don't have all the details, but I'm sure that someone in the forum can help.
 
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One thing you may want to look at is the "slop" in the commutator of the motor. If there is too much, a thrush washer placed on the end of the axle can help. If there isn't enough slop, you may have to remove one, if present.

Another thing that always helps is inspecting the gears for any flash that may still be attached to the gears. Some work with a file is necessary to remove this from the gears, and you can always clean all the old grease out of the gearbox, and replace the grease and oil with baking soda, running the gears in, using the soda as a lapping compound. After the short run in, wash the soda out of the gearbox, and then re-lube. The truck should run better.

These are some of the things I do to all of my locos, steam or diesel. Leftover flash, and slop in the commutator are generally present in most mass produced models, and eliminating, or lessening these will go a long way to improving the operations of these powered models.
 
One thing you may want to look at is the "slop" in the commutator of the motor. If there is too much, a thrush washer placed on the end of the axle can help. If there isn't enough slop, you may have to remove one, if present.

Another thing that always helps is inspecting the gears for any flash that may still be attached to the gears. Some work with a file is necessary to remove this from the gears, and you can always clean all the old grease out of the gearbox, and replace the grease and oil with baking soda, running the gears in, using the soda as a lapping compound. After the short run in, wash the soda out of the gearbox, and then re-lube. The truck should run better.

These are some of the things I do to all of my locos, steam or diesel. Leftover flash, and slop in the commutator are generally present in most mass produced models, and eliminating, or lessening these will go a long way to improving the operations of these powered models.

Carey,

Thank you for taking the time to write that up. I will take your advice both now and in the future. It is guys like you that are helpful and go the extra step to make sure others learn from your experience that make these boards worthwhile.

Thank you again :)
 
Believe it or not, most gears in locos are made from 2 part molds, and it seems that there is a fine line at the center of the gears, and this needs to be removed via the files. You can also use a #11 blade to do this, but I would still use the files and the baking soda. If you can find some powdered toothpaste, it works much better than soda. Some people use "Pearl Drops" toothpaste, but I've found that sometimes there is no consistency in the size of the particles, so I stick with the soda.
 
Believe it or not, most gears in locos are made from 2 part molds, and it seems that there is a fine line at the center of the gears, and this needs to be removed via the files. You can also use a #11 blade to do this, but I would still use the files and the baking soda. If you can find some powdered toothpaste, it works much better than soda. Some people use "Pearl Drops" toothpaste, but I've found that sometimes there is no consistency in the size of the particles, so I stick with the soda.

I appreciate the additional information. I fly R/C aircraft as well and have lapped a few valves with toothpaste on 4-stroke engines using the technique you describe. I don't have to do it as often as I used to though. It seems the OS Engines 4-strokers are made to fairly high tolerences nowerdays.

I have one super charged Y.S. .53 4-stroke that was made like a fine watch. It will turn 11,000 RPM and scream like a banchee but the tolerances are always right on factory spec. A guy used a radar gun like the police have and my plane went by at 110mph.

It's funny how these hobbies can use the same techniques ;).
 
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