Some Noob questions?

[Mogul2-6-0]

Hello,

I just joined, and just started running HO trains again.
Some noob questions I'm still researching.
Let me know if I'm posting in the wrong location. (still exploring this forum)
I will also continue to search other posts.

1. Can I run my Bachman Spectrum Coaches (Pullman,OBS, Diner etc) on 22" radius NS EZ track? Will they at least not topple over like they do on my 18" radius? I ordered a 22" radius oval for now maybe try 26 later $$$.

2. I cant afford Digital (yet) so I ordered 2 isolated powered 9" straights for my simple "yard" Do I just buy an atlas switch and wire it up to the spurs to park engines on them ? The yellow, 2 position 3 switch "connector" not the green 3 position A-B 3 "selector" switch switch(es) right? I think I get it. Use connector to isolate spur then maybe later the AB selector if I want to run 2 locos on 2 loops at the same time, reversing, etc?? I'll just stick with the simple connector switch for now.

3. My new Bachman 2-6-0 Mogul ran awesome for 2 months now it "chugs" or jerks. Its my first steam loco, I love it, did I possibly screw up/bend something handling it or do I just need to clean and lube it? How do I clean/lube it? any sugestions. I did a good break in on it. I'll review with my hobby shop and get the right cleaner/lubes/tools. Atlas or Bachman cleaner lube maybe? Afterrun?

I'll keep researching, this is fun. Great site.

Thanks to all in advance,
Richard F.

 

[lmackattack]

hello and welcome to the site

1 Some short coaches will run on 22" radius but you may have derail issues if they are longer than a scale 60' as thats kinda a tight raduis for any car over 55'. It really depends on how long the cars are. I do not run cars longer then 50' on my layout with 22" radius

2 you can get a power routing switch so that the power only goes to the direction that the switch is in. this works nicely with dead end spur tracks. Other wise you will have to isolate the spur track after the track switch and have a toggel or on off switch control the power to that track.
In simple terms to control 2 trains in diffrent direction on the same track you will need a min of 3 power blocks. one block for a siding the other 2 would be the halves of the mainline track circle. This is where the wireing is important and you would use that 3 position switch. The swithc controls the power to the blocks and thus the locos direction from one block to the next.If you have 2 loops and the tracks only cross over at one point you would brake isolate the tracks at
the crossover and the only time you need to reverse power direction is when locos crossover from one loop to the next. I highly suggest looking into an entry level DCC system ($50 on ebay) it makes life easy in the long run and allows you to enjoy running your trains not "chasing" toggle switches. just my opinion

3 Bachman makes some nice stuff but IMO the 2 that I have owned have given me motor issues. It is possible that you have dirt in the drive train and its
causing issues. a good cleaning is in order to see if it fixes your issue. clean the wheels and any power pickup, also clean the rails to see if they are dirty. if all looks good check for binding of the side rods on the loco. if that all looks good remove the cover to the gears on the under side of the loco and inspect. hopefully you will find something?

Trent

 

[UP2CSX]

Good advice that Trent gave. You can either use a power routing switch like the Peco Electrofrog or have isolated sections with a feed to the track beyond the isolated section and a toggle switch to control if it gets power.

I have some of the Bachmann Spectrum passenger cars and they run fine on 22" radius curves. The swiveling body mount couplers make it possible to run them on fairly sharp curves although 18" is a little too sharp.

I would really join Trent in urging you to think about starting off with DCC. I built my layout three years ago and quickly switched to DCC when I found out I no longer had to worry about things like blocks and throwing the right toggle switches at the right time. You can get into DCC for anywhere from $50 for a very basic starter set to $150 for a full featured starter set. Believe me, it will be well worth it to you if you intend to stay in the hobby.

 

[Mogul2-6-0]

Awesome thanks for the tips Trent and Jim.

I think the coaches will run OK on the 22" for now its just a matter of how nice they look.
I have some decent 40' ones too I can run for now. (Pennsylvania too) In my tiny startup.
Of course I'll have to sort out the mysteries of all these different types of couplers next.

Yeh I was thinking about the Bachman DCC EZ digital system from MyfavofiteSpot. I bought a basic Spectrum Magnum for now for the new second track. Should be here tonight. I'm sure I'll want to upgrade soon enough so I'll keep it in my plans. I'll Stick with the basic toggle for now.

I'll get some cleaner and lube and dig into my steam loco, maybe tonight or this weekend.
Hopefully just needs a minor tweek.

,Richard

OK Fri Eve and I got the loco sorted , manual says dirt/lint can get between brushes and armature or pickup rods and wheels and cause erratic running. Blew it out with plastic safe electric motor cleaner from my RC car and used Bachmann plastic safe conductive lube. Runs smooth as silk again.
Not best method but couldnt figure out how to get plastic body off chassis safely to get to motor etc. Manual has great parts drawing but no explaination on dissasembly and reassembly. Maybe I'll call Bachmann I hear they have good tech support.
Got my 30 year old Tyco Santa Fe F7A running too!!! gotta figure out how to put couplers on the B dummy unit. and new traction o rings on A unit etc etc. LOL
The long coaches run fine on the new 22" radius trrack!!