Soldering, best setup?
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Selector
Well-Known Member
I use the same iron, and you can get very fine, flux-filled, solder if you look around. Almost 24 gauge wire thin. The experts say to use heat in the 40-60 watt range for a quick zap before the ties heat up beneath and begin to liquefy. But, clumsy ol' me, I seem to be able to get a solid connection using the lighter hobby pen-type irons.
PNKFLOYD
Mikey
As a notorious cheapskate, I did some serious evaluations and bought the HAKKO soldering station. I used two soldering systems and a heavy duty iron while we built the club On3 layout. The HAKKO was the best and fastest for soldering wiring and track. A little expensive to begin, but worth it in the long haul.
I ordered one and used it on my own layout, good for soldering and heating shrink tube on wires.
The Weller system was much slower to heat and the upper range is lower. The iron worked well once it heated, but was heavy to do pinpoint rail work.
Just one unsolicited opinion.
I ordered one and used it on my own layout, good for soldering and heating shrink tube on wires.
The Weller system was much slower to heat and the upper range is lower. The iron worked well once it heated, but was heavy to do pinpoint rail work.
Just one unsolicited opinion.
GGNInNScale
Granite Gorge and Northern Again
I have used Yihua 936 and (another, cannot recall the number) for years. Interchangeable fine tips, good temp control, fast heating. Can solder large pads by turning it up. Great for fine work in an engine or DCC decoder.
Snowman
Well-Known Member
I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS, and I don't know if it's suitable for micro-wire type soldering or not, but:
www.micromark.com
Not cheap, and less portable than a wireless handheld version certainly, but you might look into it.
Read the description of how it's used first. Then note that there are different versions of current attachments at the "other" end, among them pliers, tips and the small alligator clip version I clicked on up there.
I do have the idea (I might well be wrong of course) that resistance soldering is used for most automated PCB board soldering these days, due to its high speed and thus very centralized heating. It's just too fast heating up and then cooling down again for heat to migrate far along the circuit traces. Those etched traces have a very small cross-section, and so heat must travel by direct conduction. Get the job done very fast and not a lot of wayward heat can migrate outward, whether along circuit traces or even rail.
I also have the idea you can solder feeders to rail so fast that you won't melt plastic ties as you might with other methods. Thereby avoiding the use of clip on heatsinks or wet rags, etc.
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"Somewhere" I know an old issue of Mainline Modeler magazine published an article on building your own rig, and I recall that unit also incorporated a foot switch. I would not consider buying a rig like this without one for the sake of safety alone. IMO you would want both hands free--in my case I'm all thumbs at times.
Another DIY version can be found here: http://girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/solderer.pdf
110V/100W Resistance Soldering Single Electrode Set
Details 110V/100W Resistance Soldering Single Electrode Set Concentrated heat reduces solder time many times overImprove solder joint qualityEliminates thermal damageCools in seconds reducing the likelihood of injuryMade in the USA
Not cheap, and less portable than a wireless handheld version certainly, but you might look into it.
Read the description of how it's used first. Then note that there are different versions of current attachments at the "other" end, among them pliers, tips and the small alligator clip version I clicked on up there.
I do have the idea (I might well be wrong of course) that resistance soldering is used for most automated PCB board soldering these days, due to its high speed and thus very centralized heating. It's just too fast heating up and then cooling down again for heat to migrate far along the circuit traces. Those etched traces have a very small cross-section, and so heat must travel by direct conduction. Get the job done very fast and not a lot of wayward heat can migrate outward, whether along circuit traces or even rail.
I also have the idea you can solder feeders to rail so fast that you won't melt plastic ties as you might with other methods. Thereby avoiding the use of clip on heatsinks or wet rags, etc.
----------------
"Somewhere" I know an old issue of Mainline Modeler magazine published an article on building your own rig, and I recall that unit also incorporated a foot switch. I would not consider buying a rig like this without one for the sake of safety alone. IMO you would want both hands free--in my case I'm all thumbs at times.
Another DIY version can be found here: http://girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/solderer.pdf
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VTRailway
Active Member
I use a radio shack soldering station. Absolutely love it. Heats to 896 F in under two mins.
feeder wires can easily be soldered to code 55 atlas flex in seconds. I use 20 gauge solid wire. First shape the wire to rest against the rail. Second tin the wire. I leave a slight blob on the wire. Tird place wire against rail. Add a bit of flux to wire and rail. Touch iron to the wire and rail. Pre-soldered wire blob flows onto the rail easily and quickly before ties melt. Every now and then a tie melts a bit but its rare for me.
feeder wires can easily be soldered to code 55 atlas flex in seconds. I use 20 gauge solid wire. First shape the wire to rest against the rail. Second tin the wire. I leave a slight blob on the wire. Tird place wire against rail. Add a bit of flux to wire and rail. Touch iron to the wire and rail. Pre-soldered wire blob flows onto the rail easily and quickly before ties melt. Every now and then a tie melts a bit but its rare for me.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I am in the process of building a new layout and with a Crew of helpers. That’s a big change for this normally lone wolf builder.I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS, and I don't know if it's suitable for micro-wire type soldering or not, but:
110V/100W Resistance Soldering Single Electrode Set
Details 110V/100W Resistance Soldering Single Electrode Set Concentrated heat reduces solder time many times overImprove solder joint qualityEliminates thermal damageCools in seconds reducing the likelihood of injuryMade in the USA
Not cheap, and less portable than a wireless handheld version certainly, but you might look into it.
Read the description of how it's used first. Then note that there are different versions of current attachments at the "other" end, among them pliers, tips and the small alligator clip version I clicked on up there.
I do have the idea (I might well be wrong of course) that resistance soldering is used for most automated PCB board soldering these days, due to its high speed and thus very centralized heating. It's just too fast heating up and then cooling down again for heat to migrate far along the circuit traces. Those etched traces have a very small cross-section, and so heat must travel by direct conduction. Get the job done very fast and not a lot of wayward heat can migrate outward, whether along circuit traces or even rail.
I also have the idea you can solder feeders to rail so fast that you won't melt plastic ties as you might with other methods. Thereby avoiding the use of clip on heatsinks or wet rags, etc.
----------------
"Somewhere" I know an old issue of Mainline Modeler magazine published an article on building your own rig, and I recall that unit also incorporated a foot switch. I would not consider buying a rig like this without one for the sake of safety alone. IMO you would want both hands free--in my case I'm all thumbs at times.
Another DIY version can be found here: http://girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/solderer.pdf
One of the helpers is the EXPERT on wiring all things electrical. He uses a similar but older American Beauty resistance soldering rig then what you’re showing with the MicroMart one. Definitely after watching him in action that is the way to add feeders to the rails. BUT, if you have no other uses for it, it’s overkill, IMO
Iron Horseman
Well-Known Member
The simple answer of "BEST" is the American Beauty that Snowman posted above.
It comes in two different wattages. The 250 watt is branded as a Superchief.
https://americanbeautytools.com/Hobby-Soldering/9259
I have three of them, in both wattages. Soldering is different using these. Once one gets used to them the soldering is essentially instantaneous, precise, and very clean. I do not use the foot peddle.
After that
I have a digital Radio Shack unit that VTRailway mentioned in a post above. It is wonderful. I got mine on clearance when the Radio Shacks began closing down. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m62560631679
And then I have my old reliable Weller WLC100
https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/...0f-for-hobbyists-with-spg40-iron-st3-tip.html
I can recommend any of them.
I have several of the "stick" type as well. They will work but one has to learn the tricks to get them to make good "hot" connections. I do not recommend them.
It comes in two different wattages. The 250 watt is branded as a Superchief.
https://americanbeautytools.com/Hobby-Soldering/9259
I have three of them, in both wattages. Soldering is different using these. Once one gets used to them the soldering is essentially instantaneous, precise, and very clean. I do not use the foot peddle.
After that
I have a digital Radio Shack unit that VTRailway mentioned in a post above. It is wonderful. I got mine on clearance when the Radio Shacks began closing down. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m62560631679
And then I have my old reliable Weller WLC100
https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/...0f-for-hobbyists-with-spg40-iron-st3-tip.html
I can recommend any of them.
I have several of the "stick" type as well. They will work but one has to learn the tricks to get them to make good "hot" connections. I do not recommend them.
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Iron Horseman
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I think I paid a high of $125 for one.
Snowman
Well-Known Member
So here's one that still astounds me after many years: Silver soldering BANDSAW blades, basically end-to-end.
In his case he apparently wanted custom length blades. In my case it might be to simply repair broken blades (only broken joints, such that the blades are still the same length) on a bandsaw that dates from the 1940's.
In this case the poster torched it using gas, but I have to wonder if a resistance rig might also work? High wattage sure, but still....
In his case he apparently wanted custom length blades. In my case it might be to simply repair broken blades (only broken joints, such that the blades are still the same length) on a bandsaw that dates from the 1940's.
In this case the poster torched it using gas, but I have to wonder if a resistance rig might also work? High wattage sure, but still....
Not having good luck lately with Amazon on shipping in a timely manner (weeks to months). For fine soldering I am currently using a woodburner tip with adjustable temperature. I've. got enough fine electronics solder to last many years, picked up a couple of heavy spools in Shanghai on one of my trips there. It shouldn't take a month or more to get some surface mount LED's and resistors or heat shrink if they have this stuff in stock.
Cheers: Tom
Cheers: Tom
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
I dumped my Amazon account several years ago, and I really don't miss it at all. If I want something, and can't find it locally, I go to eBay. Most of the sellers there ship promptly, because they know if they don't negative feedback will be left. And that hurts their score. I buy very little from individuals, mostly from companies with an eBay store. Works well for me.
Snowman
Well-Known Member
Amazon has, at least in the past, taken "liberties" with the concept of "in stock." In stock somewhere in Shanghai or Hong Kong or Sri Lanka is not the same as in stock in North America. Therefore the admonition (and perhaps justification for "Prime" too): If you can get it in a day or two or three--Prime--it's probably sourced from somewhere over here. If the delivery time is weeks, that can literally mean it's on the slow-boat-from China.
They seem to have tightened up on this recently, to their credit.
[Alaska is a different problem.
]One other advantage of Amazon here is that they'll give you an expected arrival date...sometimes push it back...but they'll also offer a point too at which you can cancel the order without any charge due to overlong shipping time. IMO this is very useful when you can source a given item elsewhere, even from another seller in the Amazon marketplace. You can bail out on having to wait for months and just move on to another seller...without taking a hit on your wallet.
Things can be even worse with ebay: I've had the sad experience where the seller advertised the object as being in stock in North America. MMMMmmmmmmaaaaybe. Or not. But, if you are willing to wait, even stuff from eastern Europe will eventually show up. The problem ebay has here is that being part of their "marketplace" is less well policed and penalties are less enforceable.
All that said, we are lucky here to have enough collective buying power to cause sellers to want to be competitive. Less so if you are ordering from Armenia, I think.
Just my ramblings..........................
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Snowman
Well-Known Member
There are things you can find on ebay, even from a lot of sources on ebay, that just aren't going to show up on Amazon. Ever.
In your case, Tom, it sounds like Amazon was trying to get away by shipping your stuff on a slow boat to Alaska. Glad to hear twisting their arm got you better service.
In your case, Tom, it sounds like Amazon was trying to get away by shipping your stuff on a slow boat to Alaska. Glad to hear twisting their arm got you better service.
