Snap or flex track


Hutch

Hutch

Well-Known Member
I have both in large enough quantity to go either way. I feel that the snap track would give me perfect radius, maybe better than flex. What do you think?
 
well, on my layout i used both ...mostly snap track to get the wanted curve, [and marked with a pencil] and replaced with flex to get less joints in there .. some places i used small pieces of snap, but not many .. i got almost all of it into a twenty inch curve radius
my layout was fifteen feet by sixteen feet with twenty two turnouts, almost all atlas custom line number sixes in code 100
 
I used both, but mostly flex. There are 2 types of flex... springy type like Atls, and not-springy. I found the springy type really simple to make curves. The rails being "springy" seems to help me make curves that looked really good and even kind of did their own easement into the curve. For me, the non-springy kind was difficult to get a smooth curve without using a template of the curve.

I used sectional pieces here and there. For example, I put some re-railers in some spots... I used them as road crossings, and I also put some in obscure spots like inside tunnels. The thought there was that a re-railer would help if something jumped a track and just needed a little nudge to stay on the rail.

Finally... I did use some sectional curved pieces and short straight pieces for the diverging route on a turnout. I had a few places where a diverging route went directly into a 11" curve (N scale), and I didn't want a kink to form where the turnout mates with a flex piece... So I used a sectional piece instead, since there would be no torque on the sectional piece since it was already a curve... Then went flex from there. This was somewhat important to me as I didn't want to solder any track to the turnout.

With flex track like Atlas (Springy), you should solder 2 pieces of flex track together before bending into a curve, or you will get kinks in the joint. Since I didn't want to solder anything to the turnout, it made more sense to use an 11" radius curve piece instead of trying to do teh same thing with a piece of flex and have it kink on me.
 
JeffH said:
With flex track like Atlas (Springy), you should solder 2 pieces of flex track together before bending into a curve, or you will get kinks in the joint. Since I didn't want to solder anything to the turnout, it made more sense to use an 11" radius curve piece instead of trying to do the same thing with a piece of flex and have it kink on me.
Click to expand...

I learned from YT to overlap the joints so they don't kink. I tried it and it works pretty good.
 
Hutch said:
I learned from YT to overlap the joints so they don't kink. I tried it and it works pretty good.
Click to expand...
Yes, that does help when connecting 2 pieces of flex, but not really possible if you want a fairly sharp curve leading into or exiting from a turnout.

I didn't want to solder anything to a turnout, as I was afraid I might need to replace one or more.
 
I generally use flex track whenever building a layout. I feel that snap track is a little too restrictive. One exception though, I will use a piece of curved snap track to bring the diverging curve of a turnout back to parallel with the straight portion. Provided a curved piece is made for such purpose, of course. Otherwise, flex track does the job.

Of course, in addition to all the other good advice thus far, migalyto sums it up best! ;)👍
 
Hutch said:
I have both in large enough quantity to go either way. I feel that the snap track would give me perfect radius, maybe better than flex. What do you think?
Click to expand...
I prefer Flex because I am not restricted to any particular pre defined radius - I can create my own to fit my layout. Therefore - I am definitely a Flex Track advocate. And, if you pin one end of the track bend it to how you want it then pin the other end - it will form its own perfect radius to suit :)
 
Because I have it, it makes sense to to use it. Just wondering if there are any drawbacks other than extra clickety clacks from the extra connections. I guess there may be some extra voltage drop but is that really an issue? I ran a train on it withe no problems.

I have 24" and 22", with a little tweeking I can get 2 1/2" between them. Or I could sell them to someone that needs them. I have so much to choose from.
 
Hutch said:
if there are any drawbacks other than extra clickety clacks from the extra connections.
Click to expand...
Real railroads have clickety clack unless you are on a modern mainline with welded rail. I don't see that as a drawback.

And OH to the main topic, I use both when appropriate. I actually hate using flex track for a short curve between two turnouts. Much prefer a pre-curved section. I've squirreled away many radius of sectional track to use in such situations. I do miss the old Shinohara line with sections up to 44" radius.
 
I mostly use flex because my minimum radius on main lines and passing sidings is 30".I use the sectional to draw lines from some switches, but eventually use the flex to provide a smoother flow. I do use sectional track on industry spurs that I don't plan to operate engines on very much, but mainly because I still have some to use up.
Like IH posted, I don't mind the clickety clack where track joints are present, flex or otherwise.
 
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