Securing groundthrows

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rem37411

Lead Caboose Polisher
I am an N scaler using the caboose industries groundthrows. I know that they are grossly overscale but that is what I am using none the less. I am looking for advice on how to secure them to the table. I tried cutting a little piece of foam to go under them and then put two nails down through the throw but it only takes about 3 rounds of operation for them to come loose and start wiggling. I am thinking about using a thicker piece of styrene (1/8 inch or 3/16 if I can find it) And glueing them down. I really don't want to do that in case anything ever messes up I can only imagine the mess I am going to encounter. I am including pictures of one so you can see what I mean. Any advice? (other than "don't use those great big things on n scale"........lol)

Or, I know I have asked before, but also looking for alternatives. I liked Larry's idea of humpyard throws but not so sure I want to go that route.
 
I use a pc. of 1/8th or 1/4" masonite under all of mine. I nail them down w/19 ga. brads. I predrill the masonite w/the hole pattern of the groundthrow & then use short nails(1/2") to attach them. I have plywood tabletops. If you use foam go w/a longer nail & elmers glue. let the glue set for at least 24 hrs. If you have to remove them later they are real easy to pry up w/a screwdriver. I have used mine on 2 diff. layouts.
If you want pics of the Humpyard throws, let me know & I will post them here in this thread.
 
I mount mine on a piece of cork roadbed and secure with 2 track nails. I use a punch to drive the nails down securely. I also cut off the extra pin so that it doesn't interfere with the operation.

I will admit I have quit using the Caboose throws because they overthrow the code 55 turnouts. I build my own out of spring wire. Not a perfect solution but the best one I can come up with.

Glenn
 


So you are saying just to nail them to that piece of masonite that Will be glued down to the foam? No issues with the glue holding the masonite to the foam? I was wondering if the smooth masonite would hold glue well enough. Thanks for the tip. I will try one today and see how it goes. I want the block of masonite to be painted to look like a concrete pad.

Thanks for the tip!
 
I mount mine on a piece of cork roadbed and secure with 2 track nails. I use a punch to drive the nails down securely. I also cut off the extra pin so that it doesn't interfere with the operation.

I will admit I have quit using the Caboose throws because they overthrow the code 55 turnouts. I build my own out of spring wire. Not a perfect solution but the best one I can come up with.

Glenn


Hi Glenn. I think the only issue I would run into would be that I am putting down on 2" foam, so the nails are going to work loose with operation.
 
It appears that you have enough room to use roadbed as a base. You can hold the roadbed to the foam using latex caulk. I then use thin blocks of styrene on top of the roadbed also "glued" with latex caulk that I paint to look like a cement base. I then predrill small holes in the styrene for the nails. I haven't had one work loose yet.
 
Ron, give the masonite a rough sanding so the glue has something to grab on to.
I've done a combo of both Larry's and Glenn's methods.
For abssolute stay putedness (I made up a new word!!!) I've considered digging out the foam and sinking a block of wood in some areas.
Haven't yet tho...
 
A much easier solution is to make longer ties to mount it on. Place these new ties (square styrene, painted as needed) under the ties on either side of the throw rod, secured with plastic weld/cement. Have them extend long enough to mount the switch stand on, use plastic weld/cement to secure the switch stand to the new long ties.

Mine have been like that for many years (I use N-scale throws on my HO layout). Pics here: http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16898

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