Sculptamold drying time?


PMW

Well-Known Member
The package didn't say. A Google search gave me from 12 hours to 4 days before paining.

To those who have used it, how long would you say I should wait before painting? Thanks!
 
The package didn't say. A Google search gave me from 12 hours to 4 days before paining.

To those who have used it, how long would you say I should wait before painting? Thanks!
You will know when its dry. It just has that distinct feel to it.

In my basement it may take 4-5 days to fully dry. I always blow an oscillating fan over that area for a day or so to speed it up to about 36 hours.
 
IS there any reason a person couldn't mix some craft paint/blends in to a cup of the sculptamold before laying it in place? It's the recommendation for hydrocal and for plaster of Paris. If you inadvertently chip or gouge those substances, you're left with a white surface that stands out. Painted beforehand, a goud or chip will show the same terrain colour. I did this with the 'goop' using Joe Fugate's formula. It is on part Portland Cement, two parts plaster of Paris, three parts finely ground vermiculite. I figured I would add a couple pinches of masonry dye, 'mesa' and brown, the former the colour of yellowish depicted in the advert for ModelRailroadData.com that appears for me at the bottom of this screen...hopefully for you as well.
 
IS there any reason a person couldn't mix some craft paint/blends in to a cup of the sculptamold before laying it in place? It's the recommendation for hydrocal and for plaster of Paris. If you inadvertently chip or gouge those substances, you're left with a white surface that stands out. Painted beforehand, a goud or chip will show the same terrain colour. I did this with the 'goop' using Joe Fugate's formula. It is on part Portland Cement, two parts plaster of Paris, three parts finely ground vermiculite. I figured I would add a couple pinches of masonry dye, 'mesa' and brown, the former the colour of yellowish depicted in the advert for ModelRailroadData.com that appears for me at the bottom of this screen...hopefully for you as well.
2 completely different products, but you could tint sculptamold. I've never known anyone to to do it or seen any video of someone doing it.

Plaster & Hydrocal are very hard & brittle when dry.

Sculptamold has paper pulp in it. You can shape it while wet on both vertical and horizontal surfaces and it holds it shape. It doesn't flow down vertical surfaces, has a long working time, and is much more abuse tolerant.

If you do happen to chip either product, it really isn't that big of a deal to hide or touch it up.
 
but you could tint sculptamold. I've never known anyone to to do it or seen any video of someone doing it.
Isn't that what the old school model railroaders call "ground goop"?

They mix latex paint with sculptamold or cellu-clay, then spread it in the area. While it is wet, you sprinkle sand, dirt, etc... on it.
 
Isn't that what the old school model railroaders call "ground goop"?

They mix latex paint with sculptamold or cellu-clay, then spread it in the area. While it is wet, you sprinkle sand, dirt, etc... on it.
That's something I don't ever remember seeing, reading about, or hearing about. I remember when colored sawdust (before ground foam) was mixed with white glue to form a "putty" base, but don't recall ground goop. I'm only 65, so it could have been before I got more serious than running a loop, with a few sidings.
 



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