running multiple engines .....


T

trainmannick83

Member
Ok i have an HO layout im working on . I want to know from Everyone NO MATTER WHAT SCALE YOU HAVE ... Can i run 2 POWERED engines back 2 back to pull a train on my layout and then maybe 1 dummy behind it ??? :confused:


ALSO ... while were talking bout engines . I noticed a little rust on ONE wheel on my CSX dash loco .. is it still OK to run it on my track ?:eek:
 
trainmannick83 said:
Ok i have an HO layout im working on . I want to know from Everyone NO MATTER WHAT SCALE YOU HAVE ... Can i run 2 POWERED engines back 2 back to pull a train on my layout and then maybe 1 dummy behind it ??? :confused:


ALSO ... while were talking bout engines . I noticed a little rust on ONE wheel on my CSX dash loco .. is it still OK to run it on my track ?:eek:
Click to expand...

I'm going to assume you're not using DCC control but are rather standard DC. Most DC locos draw between .5 to .75 amps of current even under full power, so so long as your power pack/controller delivers 1.5 to 2.0 amps you will have no trouble running 2 locos "in consist", which is the usual term when running coupled back to back.

Get a small piece of very fine sandpaper (600grit) and gently sand off the rust on the wheel. It will probably only be surface rust. DO NOT clean your track with the sandpaper. Get a proper track cleaning "brightboy" eraser.
 
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Here's a thread on loco wheel cleaning. I use the folded paper towel method, wetted with CRC or WD40 or similar.
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/...6638&highlight=loco+wheel+cleaning#post256638

If you are using commercial "set track", i.e. where you are not applying hand laid and glued ballast, you can also clean the track with the CRC etc, using a lint free cloth sprayed sparingly with it and then followed with a clean cloth.
 
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There is a caveat to the post above. The two locomotives must run at roughly the same speed when not connected to each other. If not, one will try to push or pull the other, if it runs significantly faster.
 
well i sanded the engines wheel and put it on track and it didnt budge to run .. so i think its safe to say its not worth a crud anymore :( Oh well thats life .. Im glad i got a NEW bachmann train set ( it came with E-Z Track ) , but im using the code 100 . But the good news is that i have a set of track to fall back on in case the code 100 fizzles out over time .
 
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As a gentle caution, please do not use foul language on this forum. The rest of us don't, and it's against the rules the rest of us follow.

You can use CLR or a rust and calcium build-up cleaner to get rid of the rust deposits, but a better solution might be a mag wheel polish or similar metal polish. If they don't work, you can try 600 grit sandpaper and just gently wipe it off.

A really safe way to rub off rust is with a steel washer. It will leave metal behind and it won't scrub, abrade or score the tire surface of the wheel unless you use a rough edge. Better steel washers have a flat side and a slightly rounded and finished side. Use the finished side that has no rough edge on it. Rub gently.
 
Selector said:
As a gentle caution, please do not use foul language on this forum. The rest of us don't, and it's against the rules the rest of us follow.

You can use CLR or a rust and calcium build-up cleaner to get rid of the rust deposits, but a better solution might be a mag wheel polish or similar metal polish. If they don't work, you can try 600 grit sandpaper and just gently wipe it off.

A really safe way to rub off rust is with a steel washer. It will leave metal behind and it won't scrub, abrade or score the tire surface of the wheel unless you use a rough edge. Better steel washers have a flat side and a slightly rounded and finished side. Use the finished side that has no rough edge on it. Rub gently.
Click to expand...

words corrected in my post AND i tried that sand paper and it came off .. but the engine just wont run period . I havent got a clue WHY . What i can honestly tell you is that they have been in a storage tote for about 5 yrs
 
Has been mentioned in a few other threads about the grease in the gears going hard after long periods of storage and if this is one of say, an old Blue box Athearn, the internal connections/contacts/motor brushes will all need looking at and cleaning/lightly re-oiling. The fact there was rust on the wheels suggests some dampness in the storage containers. Old DC locos such as the Athearn example, relied heavily on touch contact between the motor, the trucks and the frame to provide one side of the electrical circuit and brass wiper strips for the other. Wiring was non-existant. Simple, but easily effected by corrosion/dirt where they contacted.

Do you know the maker (brandname) of the loco you have, would help so we can give more specific advise. Also was there any drawings/exploded view/instructions stored with the loco?
 
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There may also be an issue with engines having the frame carrying power. In other words some engines have their frame carrying power due to the way the wheelsets are attached. This normally would not be a problem if you run nose to tail, but if you run nose to nose or tail to tail you may find you will have a short circuit. I know those with HO will install a special Kadee coupler that has an insulated shank. You may want to test between your couplers and both rails to see if you are okay first.
 
Don't think there would be polarity issues with DC because changing the track polarity is how direction of travel is achieved. Maybe if you were running DCC locos on a DC layout and tried to consist them.

I know that in order to run my BLI Blueline locos in consist (DC + sound fitted, DCC ready) on my club's DC layout, I had to use their DC Master device to program each loco's CV's to it's position (and direction of travel) in the consist.
 
Im pretty sure that this CSX was indeed an athearn ! I remember buying it at Hobbytown USA and NO it didnt come with cleaning instructions and ive NEVER IN MY ENTIRE LIFE taken one apart or cleaned one . Think for now , im gonna just forget about it and use my 2013 Bachmann Norfolk Southern F7 =) And yeah i have ALOT of the E-Z Track since this new set came with an oval of it , and my old E-Z track has 2 switches and such . But im going to KEEP all of that E=Z track so that way if i ever want to go back to using it ...... i can ! :)
 
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