Rolling Stock for Union Pacific set


R

RufusRoc

New Member
Hi All,

I'm going to be buying an Athearn Genesis SD70ACE (DCC) Union Pacific loco. Its my first freight loco and i want to create a reasonable modern looking set. Can anyone recommend some rolling stock that I should be getting? I want to do a mix of hoppers, tankers and gondolas, but don't want to have an unrealistic looking mixture of stock so any recommendations, including what brands are better than others, and any other resources that I should look at is much appreciated.

My layout is 4 X 8 with 2 connecting ovals of 18" and 22" radii, so any rolling stock must be compatible with an 18" radius.

thanks!
 
thanks, I checked with Athearn and they did say that the SD70s minimum radius is 18" so I should be ok on that point.
 
If my experience with a Genesis SD75M is anything to go by, and the two models will be highly similar in design and operating characteristics, just as they are in the prototype, your trackwork will have to be very good. As you come closer to 'minimums', such as in the degree of superelevation it can tolerate and the smallest radius, you will encounter more and more problems with tracking. I am fairly good about laying track, good enough that I had all my locomotives running around my last layout without any events. That is a mix of various makes and models of steamers and diesels. None of them had issues with my track. Added the Genesis SD75M's, two of them, and both derailed on certain curves. The curves were in the order of 45" radius. The problem was that my rails were dipping ever so slightly here and there, particularly the outer rails, and that allowed the outside wheels to dislodge their flanges. Once I tidied up the superelevantion, the problems went away.

So, it may be that your locomotive is designed to work on 18" curves, but unless the rails are extremely even across them at all points, expect derailments. Add speed, add more derailments.
 
RufusRoc said:
Hi All,

I'm going to be buying an Athearn Genesis SD70ACE (DCC) Union Pacific loco. Its my first freight loco and i want to create a reasonable modern looking set. Can anyone recommend some rolling stock that I should be getting? I want to do a mix of hoppers, tankers and gondolas, but don't want to have an unrealistic looking mixture of stock so any recommendations, including what brands are better than others, and any other resources that I should look at is much appreciated.

My layout is 4 X 8 with 2 connecting ovals of 18" and 22" radii, so any rolling stock must be compatible with an 18" radius.

thanks!
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The 70 will go around the 18" by itself. But the rolling stock probably wont unless you are using truck mounted couplers and even then it would be questionable. This is a modern long engine and the cars behind it will be 50' or longer except for some tankers. Would suggest a 4 axle diesel because of tracking reliability. Your cars will derail behind the 70 whereas they wont behind a GP. Phil
 
sd24b said:
The 70 will go around the 18" by itself. But the rolling stock probably wont unless you are using truck mounted couplers and even then it would be questionable. This is a modern long engine and the cars behind it will be 50' or longer except for some tankers. Would suggest a 4 axle diesel because of tracking reliability. Your cars will derail behind the 70 whereas they wont behind a GP. Phil
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I would agree with these statements. The problem with a long loco like this is the amount the overhang at each end past the truck pivot points is going to swing outward of the small track radiuses you are proposing. Basicly the next coupled wagon/car will just be lifted off the track by the coupling.

Selector mentions the problem created by dips in the track. 6 axle locos also react badly to any high points, such as is easy to get at rail joints because they do a balancing act on the centre axle that is enough to allow the truck to swing about and come off.
 
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excellent points all and thank you. does anyone think this will be less of a problem if I connect a longer rolling stock like a tanker as the first car connected to the loco, then work my way down to shorter stock? Or will the problem persist no matter what?
 
RufusRoc said:
excellent points all and thank you. does anyone think this will be less of a problem if I connect a longer rolling stock like a tanker as the first car connected to the loco, then work my way down to shorter stock? Or will the problem persist no matter what?
Click to expand...
no. the problem is the the coupler swing on long engines and rolling stock swings to the outside of the curve. a 22" rad. is really pushing the limits on most cars over 50-55'. You would tend to have a less problem with 50' and shorter especially on something like a sd70. but again most of your problem will be from your motive power. the other questionable solution would be to install longer shank couplers. Phil
 
I have just received my first SD70Ace's and am intending to give them a trial down at the club (hopefully this w/end, train orders pending). The smallest mainline radius there is 24". I have trains of Walther's 85' coaches which have extended shank couplers as standard fitment and also 89'4" flat cars similarly fitted (they carry Norscot Caterpillar equipment, so are well and truly weighted) pulled at the moment by a BLI AC6000 (a very long loco).

Had no problems at that radius provided the speed was kept down but an attempt to run faster resulted in derailments of a coach or 2 but not from the loco itself.

So I would guess that your 22" is going to be the absolute minimum the '70' could handle with a train behind. I can see you're really keen to have one (and I don't blame you) and you could try a long car next to the loco, but the inner track looks like being Geep or switcher territory.
 
I run 18" curves and semi modern mostly. Tankcars are all over creation. "shorty" semi realistic autoracks and intermodal well cars I have not found. I even took the grinder to a metal well car and glued it back together so it would work and look decent. I cut a 48' well down to 40'. Next time with a fine metal blade and my compound miter we might try for a 35' with matching container.

You should be able to see the imperfection in this pic, but it works!

20120926_000052.jpg
 
Oh, buy as little new as you can. Most of it needs weighted in my experience so it is little better than used. My favorites are used knuckle coupler rolling stock with metal wheels on ebay. Get a kadee coupler gauge and some whisker couplers. The metal centering gizmo for the #5s is too sensitive for my big fingers and feels like an extra piece now.
 
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