ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
Ok it's my turn to ask a "how to" which really shouldn't be necessary. The instructions say remove the couplers and then the 2 screws marked in black on the exploded diagram. (which of course they aren't). So I have assumed they mean the 1 at each end behind the coupler mounts, which I have done. Then the body should lift straight off.
What is happening is that it's lifting about 1/16th or so and then refusing to budge. It's obviously catching on something but I can't see what. I have tried spreading the body a bit with levers without any result. Can anyone enlighten me as to what it may be catching on. So far all I have managed to achieve is to dislodge the airtanks from each side and push one of the side cab windows partially in.
The main reason for the removal is to see how much room there is for a speaker.
Try move one end up first, also see if you can get the cab off - then you might be able to see what it's catching on.
Normally the couplers are the only thing holding it on. Can you remove the fuel tank cover as I once ran into 2 screws under the tank cover but only on one unit.
Yes this is what it did at first, but lifted at the back. Seems to be catching at the cab end. This one does have the 2 screws in the tank, so I'll see what happens. Not mentioned or even shown in the instructions. All that say's is don't remove the brass screws and as all the screws are black, not a great deal of help.
How about right behind the Trucks on both ends at the corners just in front & back of the fuel tank. Usually the screws in the tank is what holds the motor in the frame.
How about right behind the Trucks on both ends at the corners just in front & back of the fuel tank. Usually the screws in the tank is what holds the motor in the frame.
Yes I noticed those but as there was no mention of them in the instructions (for what they can often be worth) I was a bit wary of removing them in case things only got worse. I've just been for an MRI on myself, I should have taken the loco with me and held in my hand maybe.
The motor screws are covered by the tank as you say. On the Genesis SD45T-2 of mine you do have to remove a screw next to each end of the tank. What's happening here is if I lift the back of the chassis up it comes up about 1/8" or alternately the front it will lift about 3/32" but if lifted evenly only about 1/16".
I think if there were 2 screws still holding it in at the centre it wouldn't lift at all. It feels quite loose within the movement I can get. It's very tempting to give it one good yank (no racialism? intended), but the thought of each piece or pieces flying off around the room deters me from that course.
Do you think this forum can stand 2 long winded old farts?
Look for hidden screws. I noticed recently on one loco that I've been working on, I had to turn the truck all the way in one direction and remove a screw. Then, turn it the opposite way to remove the other.
I'm gonna try the credit card trick with a variation before I take any other screws out. After I put the engine to one side I went on try to dismanlle a Rapido passenger car that needs the interior walls painting and found a couple of clips/tabs close to one end of the floor that I couldn't get the usual thickness cards to work on. I found in my wallet I had my drivers license and a store card that are laminated.
These had a nice thin plastic border where they're sealed which also have an almost knife edge to them. These worked a treat where the normal credit cards wouldn't get in, so I'll give them a go first, see if they can get past whatever is catching.
I went down & looked at both of my Loco's & the shell comes off when you take the screws out under the trucks. Turn the trucks one way & remove the screw & then turn them the other way & take out the other screw. Forgot I had any Proto 2000"s. LOL CRS
Got to it again tonight, and yes, an extra 2 screws where you said Larry, not mentioned of course in the instuctions (sometimes I think instructions would be best not supplied if they can't update them), still had difficulty getting the shell to release at the front because it looked as though it was binding against the back of the front steps.
Had to grip the shell firmly by the vents behind the cab and rock&wriggle it gradually up and off. Will be some judicious filing done to the corners of the chassis to ensure an easier fit before it goes back together. There is certainly not much space to fit a speaker and enclosure. Will take some pics and make some observations and ask for suggestions as to how to get the space.
On a side note, just took the dogs out the back yard for their ablutions (before bed) to be greeted by the high pitched note of a deisel horn and the notching up of it's motor as it accelerates a freight up the main north line. A perfect lullaby, sweet dreams.
I have received a reply from Randym of Walthers customer service that I wrote to regarding this problem.
He tells me that the screws at each end (directly behind the couplers) should not be removed as they only secure the weight to the chassis and taking them out can allow the weight to move and jam against the body. (there are 4 screws in total that secure the weight, the 2 just mentioned and 2 behind the tank in clear view)
The only ones to remove after the coupler boxes are the 2 Larry mentioned which are diagonally opposite and can be accessed through the trucks.
