Rapido coupler change

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MercerMike

New Member
Hello all, How hard is it to change from rapido couplers to another style such as the Micro Trains style, I see some Alas engines on eBay that are a fair deal but the engines I like have the rapido style coupler on them and all the cars I have accumulated so far are from Micro Trains or Atlas..Anyhow, I have no clue how this is done, but am willing to learn and try, so any help will be greatly appreciated and as always a big THANKS to all who can help or who have helped me out in the past.
 
I was wondering about this too since aquiring some older rolling stock with rapido couplers. Probably just a matter of getting the correct conversion kits for the brands of cars we have. My local train club guys use KADEE couplers....and many other online people say these are good. When the railcars use truck mounted couplers then switching the entire truck/coupler unit might be easier......but I'm just studying this subject like you at this point.
 
It varies wildly unfortunately, so there's no one answer. This might not be true for all of them but the Rapidos that I've come across have had a design that doesn't lend itself well to conversion, as the coupler is cast as part of the truck and removing it leaves an insufficient surface area to glue on a new one. If this is the case then your options are to either- A. see if you can modify the truck so that a coupler can be attached, B. body-mount a coupler, or C. replace the truck altogether.

Option C is by far the easiest, but replacing an otherwise functional truck is a bit wasteful, it costs money, and it doesn't work for locos. Option B would be preferred by most as body-mounted couplers are seen as superior (personally I'm still on the fence), but again this isn't always possible for a couple of reasons. To see two of them check out this hopper that I bought without realising it had Rapidos. First of all, there's no solid place to body-mount a coupler. Secondly, even if you did mount one the car would derail on the gentlest of turns because the wheels would hit the coupler box.

As for trains, your options are generally just to body-mount. The only train I've ever seen that has couplers on the trucks are my Kato F7s, and that's only on the rear trucks. Locos nearly always have a pilot at either end (the F7s were intended for use in sets so it wasn't necessary anywhere but the front of the A units) so truck-mounted couplers don't work. Often the coupler is mounted to the shell itself and sticks out through a hole in the pilot, or as is popular with Kato & Athearn it's screwed in to the frame itself (making removal necessary if you want to take the shell off, very annoying). Either way, in my experience the couplers have always been screwed in, never actually cast as part of the shell/frame, which makes swapping them far easier. There are conversion charts all over the place, but you'll find that MicroTrains 1015-1 short-shank couplers will fit a variety of loco applications, especially diesels as they're less likely to have the big fancy cow catchers of a steamer. You can buy them pre-assembled from Fifer Hobby, or if you're brave enough you can buy them in larger bulk packs that you need to assemble yourself. Assembling them is a tiny bit fiddly (mainly the spring), but the coupler box on these actually clips together so once they're done, they're done. No falling to bits while you try and slot it through the pilot! Seeing as you said you're new to this I would suggest buying a pack of assembled ones, then carefully dismantling one coupler to see how it goes together.
 
Pete is pretty much correct.......on locos, the first thing to look at is not if the couplers are Rapidos, but if the pilot is open or closed.......if it's open, then the couplers are going to be mounted on the trucks and conversion is more complicated. If the pilot is closed, then a 1015/1016 MT will mount right up using the existing hardware (either a clip or screw) or in a few cases you'll want a 2003/2004. If the pilot is open, MT makes 2 types of conversion kits. The first type will install an MT style coupler on the existing mount......these tend to be a little fiddly with lots of small parts, but will get the job done. The second type involves cutting the coupler mount off the truck and gluing a new mount into the opening in the pilot, then installing a a 1015 into the new mount. I prefer this type because it makes the locos more prototypical and is sturdier, but there's no going back once the old mount is cut off. Unfortunately not all mounts are available for all locos, so you may not have a choice. Consult the MT conversion chart.
 




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