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seems to be the prefered roadbed. why do you use 2 small strips rather than one piece cork roadbed?
It will bend easier, and lay down flatter than a non-split cork.
It's hard to bend one piece around curves, easier to bend two thinner strips.
I'm thinking there's less waste cutting a bevel into the middle of a strip than
cutting the edges also.
When I was complete newb, the first time I bought some cork roadbed, I thought, what the hell, it's defective, it's got a split down the middle.

why do you use 2 small strips rather than one piece cork roadbed?
When you split the cork down the middle, you end up with a beveled edge on each of the two pieces. The beveled edge goes on the outside edge of the track, giving your roadbed a sloped profile, which is more realistic than a flat vertical edge.
As others have mentioned, the split pieces are easy to form into curves, whereas a solid piece of cork would be much more difficult to curve.
So you start with the unsplit cork out of the package:
Then you split the cork down the middle, giving you two beveled edges:
Then you lay one half of the cork:
Finally, lay the second half of the cork:
I use cheap latex caulk to glue the cork to the subroadbed. I use pushpins to hold the cork in place while the caulk cures. Then I glue down the other half of the cork.
Good luck!
- Jeff
thanks!
but doesn't the beveled edge get covered by ballast anyway?
Yes it gets covered by the ballast. But you groom the ballast so that it covers the beveled edge, but don't pile it up too much.
Also notice that I painted the side of the rail. This is called weathering the rails, because they are too shiny. I used the floquil rail paint pen, it works great.
looks really neat.
is that code 83 or 100?
black ties? don't like brown?
thanks!!!
Code 83. Yes I like the black ties.
but doesn't the beveled edge get covered by ballast anyway?
Yes, it does get covered with ballast. However, it is far easier to get a properly sloped ballast profile when the edge of the cork roadbed is beveled.
- Jeff
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