Proto 2000 Questions


K

krn001

Member
Hi all,
Besides selling the locomotive shells, is there anything else worth parting out. The reason i'm asking is that my brother had a decent amount of HO engines & cars including 9 Proto 2000 engines (new & used) and most have issues with either cracked gears or intermittent power. I did an online search & read that there were issues with these, even new from the box. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Karl
This one worked fine then no power after 5 min
 

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Some of us like to buy "clunkers", and fix them up.
Maybe you could send me a PM with what you have, and what you want to get for them, and maybe we can figure out a deal.
 
krn001 said:
Besides selling the locomotive shells, is there anything else worth parting out. The reason i'm asking is that my brother had a decent amount of HO engines & cars including 10 Proto 2000 engines (new & used) and most have issues with either cracked gears or intermittent power. I did an online search & read that there were issues with these, even new from the box. Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Yeah, I don't think I would part them out. Cracked gears is a 15 minute fix. Intermittent power is usually a touch with a soldering iron. I would note which problem each loco has and sell them "as is". Probably easier and better value than parting them out.
 
If you've got any Alco PB locos (Union Pacific), they are the cabless units to match the PA1 locos. I'd be interested.
 
Iron Horseman said:
Yeah, I don't think I would part them out. Cracked gears is a 15 minute fix. Intermittent power is usually a touch with a soldering iron. I would note which problem each loco has and sell them "as is". Probably easier and better value than parting them out.
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Agreed. I have bought several of these in the fifty buck range, and then replaced gears, and installed decoders. They run fine. Most of us in this market will be aware of the problems with blue box protos. Just note the issues and sell as is. You'll do better. Six axle locos generally did not have the cracked gear issues.
 
I've never had any problems with my PA's (ABBA all powered) or the GP38-2's I have. The most notable difference between the Protos and Athearns is the gearing. Protos are geared for slower speed running and are very smooth and more prototypical in that regard than Athearns, even now. The detail is better as well, comparing say, the Protos that came in the large box with chassis and shell separate, and the RTR "DCC quick plug equipped" Athearns. One thing where Proto do fall down in comparison, even with the latest releases, are the sunshades on the cab roof sides. Athearns are brass (or at least metal) and fit to the shell with pins pressed into the shell. Proto's are plastic and come unattached (annoyingly without spaces in the plastic packaging to clear them once fitted) and need to be glued on. Consequently, because all you are doing when glueing is paint to paint, they are exceedingly easy to break off.
 
I love scooping up old Proto 2000 locos on Ebay or facebooks HO yard sale group for $30 and converting them to DCC and adding new axles.
I just bought a A-B-A Alco FA units , both a units powered , for $50 last week. Had them on the club layout and people thought they were brand new LOL...there almost 20 years old!!!...
 
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