Problems with Microscale decals

[trailrider]

I am attempting to decal a Burlington Route F2A diesel using this company product, and am having fits! Now, I have decalled models, including "Q" freight diesels for years, although most were using Champ decals years ago. I have followed Microscale's instructions exactly as written on the envelopes, but have had the striping disintegrate as I try to position them. I don't know whether the problem is that the decal sets (obtained at the LHS) are old and dried out, or due to the thinness of the film, but they crack and craze no matter how the MicroSol and MicroSet are used (per their directions)! Yes, I applied a layer of GlossCoat (again per the directions) and let it dry several days.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wright2626]

sounds like the carrier film has worn out. may try spraying the decals with a clear coat while they are still on the decal sheet. something like testors clear.

 

[malletman]

I would say the sheets are old and dried out. My older sets get this way, I just throw them away and get fresh ones. To much work goes into painting am model to use old dried out decals. Not like a new sheet is that expensive. Now if they are NLA, then I would try clear coating them to try and save them. Mike

 

[trailrider]

Thanks! No telling how long the LHS has had them in their file. I did find that using some Champion Decal Set, a bottle of which I still have, seems to work better. I'll try the other set that I picked up, but if that doesn't work, I'll order some new decals from Walthers. I also found a bottle of Floquil Sicony Red paint that coincidentally matches the red in the striping, and am using that to touch up. I will also probably weather the loco once everything dries and I can get a coating of Gloss Coat sprayed on. Again, thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Y3a]

3 years is about tops for the life of a decal.

 

[Mark R.]

Microscale had to change their ink formula a number of years ago (California regulations) and I find the ink they are now using is a lot more "brittle" than it used to be. The printed image tends to easily crack or flake. Cutting a clean edge through the print is almost impossible now. The cut edge tends to crack and flake off. Makes applying their decals a very frustrating experience to say the least ....

Mark.

 

[Charles Smiley]

Cutting with sharp new scissors gives me cleaner edges than any razor blade or xacto blade. It also creates less cracking on older decals. I have many Champ decals that are 40 years old and they work fine if handled with care. Try scissors as a test and see if it helps.

 

[Espeefan]

3 years is about tops for the life of a decal.

Except for Champs' sets. I have 30 year old sets. Their film is TOUGH! it's also thicker than anything else on the market

 

[modelmaker51]

I would coat th decals with Microscale's Liquid Decal Film. This stuff works great for rejuvenating old decals. I would also order directly from Microscale's webpage, you get them faster and they only charge actual postage.

 

[Cjcrescent]

I would coat th decals with Microscale's Liquid Decal Film. This stuff works great for rejuvenating old decals. I would also order directly from Microscale's webpage, you get them faster and they only charge actual postage.

Good product! Its real decal film and can be applied to the old decal sheet with a brush. I keep a couple of bottles on hand due to some really old sets that I have.

Except for Champs' sets. I have 30 year old sets. Their film is TOUGH! it's also thicker than anything else on the market

Alan,

You obviously haven't used any of the old Walters decals. They made Champ's look like Thinfilm decals. That's one reason why Walthers Solvaset is so strong. It had to soften those.

Now I don't know if the Solvaset formula has changed because of Walthers no longer making their decals, but it's still the strongest decal setter I've used.

 

[Eddystone]

I would coat th decals with Microscale's Liquid Decal Film. This stuff works great for rejuvenating old decals. I would also order directly from Microscale's webpage, you get them faster and they only charge actual postage.

According to their website, they charge $6.00 shipping for under one pound regardless of what you buy. That makes a $4.00 bottle of Micro Sol cost $10.00 delivered. An $8.00 sheet of decals will run you $14.00 delivered. I wouldn't call that highway robbery, but I wouldn't call it actual cost, either. I can ship you a couple of diesel engines well packaged via Priority Mail for under $6.00 and do it frequently.