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Primer for brass
- Thread starter 187
- Start date
Cjcrescent
Master Mechanic
I use Floquil's "Foundation" as a primer. Its a light tan in color and allows an even surface for the colors to adhere to. Another advantage is since its what's called a "neutral" color, and of the more difficult colors to get good coverage with, like red, green, (slight color shift) and yellow, will go on without any extra coats being needed.
Whatever method you use to paint it, and whatever brand of paint you use, you do need to bake the engine in a low temp oven, (150-200`) for at least an hour, (and up to 4 hours,) after its painted. But do this only if the engine has been completely taken apart to paint.
Whatever method you use to paint it, and whatever brand of paint you use, you do need to bake the engine in a low temp oven, (150-200`) for at least an hour, (and up to 4 hours,) after its painted. But do this only if the engine has been completely taken apart to paint.
You don't say what you're painting with. Can you enlighten us?
For yellows, oranges, and some reds I prime with el cheapo Testors silver. it's thin, covers great, and takes pretty much everything without shifting the color of the topcoat. Floquil Foundation works here too. For other colors I don't prime. I use Scalecoat because it's essentially self priming on brass. I only prime with the light colors to avoid color shift. We all do it a little differently.
For yellows, oranges, and some reds I prime with el cheapo Testors silver. it's thin, covers great, and takes pretty much everything without shifting the color of the topcoat. Floquil Foundation works here too. For other colors I don't prime. I use Scalecoat because it's essentially self priming on brass. I only prime with the light colors to avoid color shift. We all do it a little differently.
Cjcrescent
Master Mechanic
I'll be using Dr. Ben's Weathering stains,Solutions and Pigments. Should you bake the primer first?
Blayne
Those would be applied after the loco is painted in its basic colors, and decals are applied and sealed. All those do is weather the loco from a new paint job with just some slight weathering effects, all the way to an almost broken down looking rust bucket. But they have to go on after the loco is painted.
