After my wife suggested I get my N Scale layout off the return of my desk and "put it on a piece of wood or something", yesterday I began doing just such. I wanted it lightweight so I could lay it out and put it aside as needed. I wanted it sturdy, but not "throw your back out" sturdy. Being I work in a geek-line of work, and I'm anal about wiring, all wiring had to be NEAT; straight runs, all taps coming in at 90 degree angles. NO droopy wires, all wires labeled with functions. The guys I work with always say "Who cares ? Who will SEE this ?" when I run wiring. My response is, "Take pride in not only that in which can be seen, but that in which cannot.". Kinda Yoda-esque, I know.
I started with a 3/8" sheet of sanded plywood cut to 3'x6'. That in of itself is way too flimsy. It needed a frame. I made a 1"x2" frame with cross braces every 12", glued and screwed. Firmed it up but was still lightweight. Added a 3"x10" shelf on one side to hold my throw-out switches.
I chose to not run my bus wire in a loop configuration. I felt that was unnecessary and could create a "magnetic loop" situation (my thinking, doesn't matter if it's true or not.....). I ran a "main feed" down the center of the layout and tapped all my track feeders onto the "main". Being I am using Kato Unitrack and the stock feed wires are blue/white, I used blue/white 18 gauge stranded for my main feed; I was going to use 22 gauge but was out. Common coloring (in my experience) it red/black, black/white for power, but I'm also anal about matching the wiring. Nothing ticks me off more at work than tracing out a red wire and find it tapped into a white, etc....
Mounted the command station (MRC Prodigy Express2) underneath with industrial Velcro.
Since I am using the butt-ugly but functional Kato switches, I got a Kato DC convertor and tapped it onto the bus. I am modeling the Manning Oaks layout (on Kato's website) and laid out the track, but Unitrack doesn't have holes readily available for spikes. I could've drilled small holes, sure, but instead I broke out the trusty hot glue gun. This way I can easily "pop" loose track as desired. Glued the track, set the layout on edge and gave it a few sharp test shakes. Track remained. Cool dat.
Now, is my layout correct/proper in terms of "normal accepted practice" ? Not to sound rude, but don't know, don't care. Serves my purpose perfectly. I ran the trains then propped the layout behind my door when finished. Does what I needed it to do.
My intent was to never do scenery; all I wanted was to run the trains on a portable layout. As I ran my trains on it's new home, my mind began to wonder; I could put a hill here; a building there, etc..
My wife knows not what she started.....
I started with a 3/8" sheet of sanded plywood cut to 3'x6'. That in of itself is way too flimsy. It needed a frame. I made a 1"x2" frame with cross braces every 12", glued and screwed. Firmed it up but was still lightweight. Added a 3"x10" shelf on one side to hold my throw-out switches.
I chose to not run my bus wire in a loop configuration. I felt that was unnecessary and could create a "magnetic loop" situation (my thinking, doesn't matter if it's true or not.....). I ran a "main feed" down the center of the layout and tapped all my track feeders onto the "main". Being I am using Kato Unitrack and the stock feed wires are blue/white, I used blue/white 18 gauge stranded for my main feed; I was going to use 22 gauge but was out. Common coloring (in my experience) it red/black, black/white for power, but I'm also anal about matching the wiring. Nothing ticks me off more at work than tracing out a red wire and find it tapped into a white, etc....
Mounted the command station (MRC Prodigy Express2) underneath with industrial Velcro.
Since I am using the butt-ugly but functional Kato switches, I got a Kato DC convertor and tapped it onto the bus. I am modeling the Manning Oaks layout (on Kato's website) and laid out the track, but Unitrack doesn't have holes readily available for spikes. I could've drilled small holes, sure, but instead I broke out the trusty hot glue gun. This way I can easily "pop" loose track as desired. Glued the track, set the layout on edge and gave it a few sharp test shakes. Track remained. Cool dat.
Now, is my layout correct/proper in terms of "normal accepted practice" ? Not to sound rude, but don't know, don't care. Serves my purpose perfectly. I ran the trains then propped the layout behind my door when finished. Does what I needed it to do.
My intent was to never do scenery; all I wanted was to run the trains on a portable layout. As I ran my trains on it's new home, my mind began to wonder; I could put a hill here; a building there, etc..
My wife knows not what she started.....
We don't have any kids, and none visit, so the only one that'll bump into it is me. That'll be okay, I curse myself out quite regularly.
