plywood vs OSB


M

mowman24

Member
I have been figuring to use OSB for my layout, but just read that it is much harder to drive screws into. Although the guy did say MDF was hard not OSB. I am not familiar with MDF, is it just another name for OSB , or another product altogether?
 
MDF is Medium Density Fiber board. It is not a good product to use for a layout, in my opinion. It's very heavy, doesn't take fasteners well and will sag under its own weight if not properly supported. It is a totally different product than OSB (Oriented Strand Board).

Regards,
Don Z.
 
Medium Density Fibre-board (MDF), is a resin infused crushed popular and pressed board. It is used extensively for modern cabinet making. MDF is not an exterior material, as it cannot get wet without damaging. It does not take screws very well, but can be glued and nailed. It routers beautifully.
True that MDF is very hard and heavy. It generally can be bought from 1/4" through 1" thick.

I believe it would work well as a layout table, so long as it was properly supported and not the thick stuff. Carpenters glue would be your friend, and not screws.

I worked in an MDF manufacturing facility for 9 years.
 
I would go with the OSB you can put nails in it and run screws into it easily Like stated the MDF is heavy and hard you all most need to drill holes in it for screws I've used OSB for years and never had it warp or sag
It's used in construction for roofs on 24 in spacing so I think for our use it is fine
 
My layout (here in the U.K.) is on MDF. (Never heard of OSB.) Yes it is heavy. I do have to drill holes. It does take track pins easily (imo).
(Touch wood) Never had problems with it.
 
The base of the layout is a one-time purchase, and cheaping out here will cause a lot of frustration in the future. Spend the extra money now, and get decent quality plywood as a base, and you won't be dealing with warping or expansion/crumbling from moisture later. Plywood is also easier to nail and screw.
 
bnsf971 said:
The base of the layout is a one-time purchase, and cheaping out here will cause a lot of frustration in the future. Spend the extra money now, and get decent quality plywood as a base, and you won't be dealing with warping or expansion/crumbling from moisture later. Plywood is also easier to nail and screw.
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Are you referring to MDF or OSB? I wouldn't use MDF after reading up on it, not to mention at my local Menards it costs more than OSB or plywood.
 
OK plywood it is. Another ? what is best way to fasten track ( 027 ). to the wood if I don't want to use screws or mails. Glue ? but which one hot glue? Elmers in the ballast? construction type glue???
 
mowman24 said:
OK plywood it is. Another ? what is best way to fasten track ( 027 ). to the wood if I don't want to use screws or mails. Glue ? but which one hot glue? Elmers in the ballast? construction type glue???
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Are you talking "fast Track" or the old Tube type?
 
mowman24 said:
OK plywood it is. Another ? what is best way to fasten track ( 027 ). to the wood if I don't want to use screws or mails. Glue ? but which one hot glue? Elmers in the ballast? construction type glue???
Click to expand...
The best way to fasten your track down to the wood is with small screws or nails, whether you want to or not. It should only take one or two screws or nails per each section of track to secure it firmly to the wood. And easy enough (especially with screws) to remove the track later on for whatever reason.

But short of that, if you insist, then I'd go with hot glue. Shouldn't take a whole lot of it either, just enough to tack the track sections down to hold them in place.

Regardless of which way you attach it, you want smooth, straight, and flat track work with good joints before ballasting with Elmer's glue. Ballasting with Elmer's will lock everything in place once it's dry, whether the track work is decently done or not. So you want to make sure it's good to start with. And if you used screws or nails, and the looks bother you, they can be removed after the ballast glue is dry (although removing nails could be way more of challenge than removing screws would).
 
Mixed Freight said:
The best way to fasten your track down to the wood is with small screws or nails, whether you want to or not. It should only take one or two screws or nails per each section of track to secure it firmly to the wood. And easy enough (especially with screws) to remove the track later on for whatever reason.

But short of that, if you insist, then I'd go with hot glue. Shouldn't take a whole lot of it either, just enough to tack the track sections down to hold them in place.

Regardless of which way you attach it, you want smooth, straight, and flat track work with good joints before ballasting with Elmer's glue. Ballasting with Elmer's will lock everything in place once it's dry, whether the track work is decently done or not. So you want to make sure it's good to start with. And if you used screws or nails, and the looks bother you, they can be removed after the ballast glue is dry (although removing nails could be way more of challenge than removing screws would).
Click to expand...
So if I understand you right, after the ballast is properly glued down it alone will hold the track. ?
 
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