Pictures of my Benchwork

[DairyStateDad]

I've posted pictures of my completed benchwork at my blog:

http://bloggingontherr.blogspot.com/2010/10/some-pictures.html


A 2-inch layer of foam (actually, 2 1-inch layers) will go on top of the surface of each of the 4 sections.

I am troubled by one thing, though. Despite doing my darndest to measure accurately and assemble everything square, the height of sections isn't quite even from one to the next. The difference is as much as 1/4 inch.

I was going to use levelers, which would have reduced or eliminated the problem, but it became clear I needed to put everything on casters. As a result, I can't do anything to adjust the height of individual sections. If anyone has suggestions (including "chill out, dude, and just work out the differences when you have the foam in place!" ) I'd welcome them!

 

[maczimb]

Leveling

Hey Dad.
Let me first comment on your structural work.
I am not crazy about your skinny cross braces, attached with only one screw per side. A diagonal brace , from leg to top rail would be more rigid.
Your casters look a bit flimsy?
Now down to a solution to your leveling problem.
A simple way would be to firstly, man handle your sections into a level position and clamp them together, now drill a hole, perhaps 3/8", through both top rails, and run a 3/8" bolt, with a washer under the head, through the hole. On the other end, use a washer and a nut.
Another possibility is to attack the problem where the casters attach to the leg, if the casters are plate mount, use a shim. If the casters are the type that are pressed into a drilled hole, try using some washers to adjust the height.
Having read what I just wrote, I am somewhat confused, hopefully you can make sense of my suggested fix???
Good luck.
Mac

 

[RW&C]

Diagonal braces are definitely better than horizontal stringers. How are the casters set up? Can you drill them in/shim them out a little?

Mac's idea with the bolts is a good one (and one I intend to use on my setup). But how are you planning to attach the track across the gaps?

 

[NWCanuck]

Here is a picture of some 1X4 Clear Pine framework that I built. There are two sections bolted together (which is the important part). To keep everything tight and level you need to bolt the sections together. I used 1/2" diameter bolts and washers. I guess the most important thing is to cut all your wood to the same length and then assemble the pieces. They measure 3'x5' with the back section showing covered with plywood. On top of the frame work is 1/2 Plywood secured with 1 5/8 course drywall screws. Even with both sections firmly bolted together you may still need to shim under the legs like I did, due to and uneven basement floor.

View attachment 22553

View attachment 22554

On top of the plywood I glued two 1" layers of pink ridged foam (with foam compatible construction adhesive I think it was LePage PL3000). In your case this will help with the uneven alignment of your tables, because you are going to want to carve your foam to contour your landscape which should allow you to level out your uneven alignment. But for sure you are going to have to bolt your sections together after you level them preferably with adjustable rolling castors and before you lay your foam down.

With every thing bolted together just make sure your track sections line up with the edge of your table sections. For these connections I just used rail joiners and quick disconnects for the track bus. This way you can undo your bolts and pull the sections apart.

 

[LotoQuestions]

Levelling sections suggestion

I am gradually putting together a number of sections / modules and started with the original plan of removable legs and wall brackets.

I would simply take what you have and make the legs a reasonably stiff unit by itself. With some tabs to locate the top layout unit in place on the leg unit, shims can be used at that point.

that way the leg units are stiff, the tops are easily mounted without trying to put separate legs in them, units are easily moved and not much more material is needed.

thanks ,,, ken

 

[DairyStateDad]

Thanks for the feedback, everyone.

I will look at the possibility of putting shims between some of the casters and the legs they're attached to to even out the height. But as NWCanuck noted, I might just be able to work out the very slight differences by working with the foam that goes on top of this set-up.

Incidentally, those casters may "look flimsy" but they are rated at 60 pounds each -- 240 pounds per section. I really don't think an entire section is going to reach that kind of weight, .

Regarding the benchwork itself, it's very solid, square and stable. The cross joists that support the tabletop are 3/4-inch plywood. The legs are 1/2-inch plywood, assembled with nails and glue to create an L-shape, with a 2x2 nailed and glued in the lower portion of the legs to provide a base for the casters (originally was going to be leveling feet, before I realized I'd have to move everything every day). The components are then glued and bolted together into an H-assembly. They are plenty stiff already.

They're put together according to an all-plywood design that's been featured a lot over the last decade in MR. (Here's a note about the design from Jim Hediger himself, on another discussion board: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ldsig/message/51382?var=1 )

I did make a few modifications to that design. The biggest change I made was putting in the 1x2 horizontal stringers on the bottom in place of two pieces of 1/4-inch thick molding as cross braces between the legs. Yes, you read that right -- the original plan calls for 1/4-inch-thick molding as cross braces. I'm sure the original design works fine, but I wanted the area below the table to be open for shelving.

Legs are bolted to crosswise joists that are underneath the tabletops, using wingnuts so they can be dis-assembled at a later date in case I move, and I used carriage bolts and wingnuts for the stringers between the legs as well. Everything's tight and rigid and very stable, so I'm satisfied with that.

While I might bolt the sections together, I'm thinking with at least some I'll use quick-release clamps instead, the way the MR folks do with the Beer Line layout, because the location is such that I'll have to separate two of the sections after every session of building or running the layout. Wall brackets aren't an option here.

RW&C asks how to connect track between sections, and that's frankly an issue I need to figure out. My fallback position is to leave a small space for a piece of sectional track across every module-to-module connection, but I sorta have a feeling there's a better option than that. A good friend of mine has been building high-quality N-scale modules for years, and I'm probably going to turn to him for advice, as I have on much of the project so far.

 

[maczimb]

Section to section connection

Hi Again.
Leveling is an issue but getting the rail ends to align can be a real problem! Even a few thousands of an inch of misalignment can cause no end of headaches.
My thinking would be, to not fix the last few inches of track on both layout sections, don't ballast or nail down, this will allow both vertical and horizontal adjustment.
Use rail joiners to make the connection and all "SHOULD" be OK?
Am I on the right track???
Mac

 

[NWCanuck]

My thinking would be, to not fix the last few inches of track on both layout sections, don't ballast or nail down, this will allow both vertical and horizontal adjustment.
Use rail joiners to make the connection and all "SHOULD" be OK?
Am I on the right track???
Mac

There should be no need for adjustment if you build your bench work accurately and correctly. The most important thing to do is bolt the sections together and use dowels for alignment if necessary. Build the bench work identically (same measurements) between sections and level it to the floor when done. Do not build the bench work on and uneven floor and then try to level the layout. I think that is the key to success for modular layout design.

As far as fixing the track to the edge and ballasting to the edge should not be an issue because the bolting of the sections together is what forces the alignment. If done right you may not even need rail joiners between sections, as a butt join will suffice.

 

[maczimb]

Accurate benchwork

Brad is right! If you are able to build your bench work to within a few thousandths of an inch, you won't need adjustment or rail joiners.
Personally, as an ex tool and die maker, I wouldn't attempt to build something out of a material as unstable as wood, and with caster wheels that are only round, within about + or - .010", hope to hold that kind of accuracy and repeatability. Your dowel holes will wear with constant assembly and dis assembly, and your wood will warp over time.
A fellow HO guy in my neck of the woods, built a hinged section, to enable him to get into the center of his layout, after a lot of frustration, he modified his layout and eliminated the hinged deal.
Good luck.
Mac