Phone wire feeders?

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cncproadwarrior

cncproadwarrior

North of the 49th
I planned on using 18 gauge wire as feeders (to a 14 gauge bus) on my 8x12 HO layout based on everything I've read on the subject.

I have miles of 22 gauge phone wire that I was only going to use for lighting etc.

But then I got thinking... Don't know if that's a good thing or not.:rolleyes:

I have two questions:

1- Could I twist together the ends of two pieces of 22 gauge wire for each feeder? Most feeders will probably be no longer than 18".

2- I plan on dropping a feeder from each section of flex track. Instead of connecting each feeder through one suitace connector could I attach two feeders (instead of one) to the bus using one suitcase connector?
 
cncproadwarrior said:
I planned on using 18 gauge wire as feeders (to a 14 gauge bus) on my 8x12 HO layout based on everything I've read on the subject.

I have miles of 22 gauge phone wire that I was only going to use for lighting etc.

But then I got thinking... Don't know if that's a good thing or not.:rolleyes:

I have two questions:

1- Could I twist together the ends of two pieces of 22 gauge wire for each feeder? Most feeders will probably be no longer than 18".

2- I plan on dropping a feeder from each section of flex track. Instead of connecting each feeder through one suitace connector could I attach two feeders (instead of one) to the bus using one suitcase connector?
Click to expand...

Question 1-Nothing wrong with that from what I know about electronics.

Question 2-Don't think that's possible, but I've never used suitcase connectors myself, so it could be possible. From what I've heard, it isn't.
 
It is generally, depending on your skill, much less costly and a mechanically better connection to simply wrap the feeders' ends around the bus at mechanical parings of the insulation and solder.
 


I use 22ga. solid copper wire for all of my drops to a 14ga. buss stranded. I just stripped a small opening in the buss & soldered the drops. Lot cheaper & you don't have to worry about those connectors coming apart.
Years ago I used suitcase connectors on everything I built in my shop that had lites attached. I had many problems w/corrosion, bad grounds, pulled apart sections, etc.
So, now I solder everything.
 
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Larry said:
I use 22ga. solid copper wire for all of my drops to a 14ga. buss stranded. I just stripped a small opening in the buss & soldered the drops. Lot cheaper & you don't have to worry about those connectors coming apart.
Click to expand...

So I wouldn't need to double the wires on the feeders - just use one 22 gauge solid wire per feeder?

And stripping insulation off a 14 gauge wire under a table doesn't sound easy...
 
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All of my Buss wires are close to the fronts of my tables & the drops run to those. My tables are 42" from the floor & I have a rolling stool that adjusts up & down. I just cut the side of the plastic shield w/a #11 knife about 1/2" & then cut the plastic off w/a side cutter. Some people cut the wires & then solder them back together w/the drop. That's a lot of xtra work. Once you do a couple it will get easier. I also tin all my wires before I hook them together. I also use a real thin solder that the phone guys used years ago that doesn't require any flux. You can get it at Radio Shack too.
You don't need to put 2 wires together. My drops are every 4 ft., but my layout is a lot bigger than yours, so, you could probably go every 6 ft.
 
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if your feeders aren't too far apart and aren't too long, 22ga solid wire is fine. especially if you've soldered the rail joints.
 
Jim, I've got a bunch of those & didn't know what they were for. had them for quite a few years. They were in a bunch of electrical stuff I bought at a yard sale. I'll have to try them out. Thanks.
 
They are great, Larry. Way better than having blobs of hot solder falling on your face while you're laying under the layout. :) If you got them at yard sale prices, you got a good deal, since the one downside is they aren't inexpensive. The upside is that, unlike suitcase connectors, you can reuse the Posi-Tap if you screw something up. I've thown away a lot of suitcase connectors over the years.
 


I use phone wire for my drops and have had no problems.
When you think about it, the wire is still thicker than the wires in the loco, same voltage and current, well for the most part...
 
Bernie, you sure that wasn't $5 for five posi-taps? That's the normal price here. They are only sold in five packs, not by the piece. If it's really $5 each, I'm sure you can find a cheaper source
 
Jim,

This price is from NAPA. They sell packs of 2 for $10. That's a h3ll of a markup.

It might be worth my while getting my sister to buy some for me. She lives in Texas and is coming up here for Christmas. Where is the best place to buy them in the US?
 
NAPA must be getting Posi-Tap to make special packs for them since I've never seen them in less than five packs. That price is really outrageous.

The first place she should look is Auto Zone or one of the bigger chain auto parts stores since some of them are starting to carry them now. You can also order directly from the Posi-Tap web site at http://www.posi-lock.com/shoponline.cfm. They have 30 connectors for $30. If she orders over $50, they ship them free. They also ship to Canada, but you need to call them to find out what the price on that would be. Even though these are about twice the price of top quality 3M suicase connectors, they will save you money in the long run. No special crimping tool to buy. No getting everything together and then having to cut off the suitcase connector because one wire didn't get pierced all the way and tossing it out, hoping you still have enough wire left to make the connection. The Posi-Taps are reusable no matter how many times you screw up and dont get the wires in right. They are also easy to use while lying on your pack. Just put the bus wire through the bottom half and put the feeder wires in the top half and screw it down. Another advantage is that you have enough room to use three or four 22 gauge wires in the feeder end if the wires are all close enough, like putting in street lights, traffic lights, and grade crossing signals. They also make a really strong mechanical connection. You can yank on them hard and the wires won't come out. I've snagged a few under the layout that didn't get neatly put in snap clips (imagine that :) ) and have yet to destroy the connection. I have well over 110 light bulbs on my layout and Posi-Taps made it a snap to hook them all up. Now, I need to find a powerpack with more amps so it stops overloading on me. :D
 
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Thanks Jim,

NAPA must be trying to pull a fast one because their packs are 2 for $10. Even my friend behind the counter couldn't believe it.

With 14 gauge bus wires and 22gauge feeders should I go with the green or the black or does it matter?
 
I found the same problem with NAPA's pricing too. They only had the dark grey two packs, and they only had 3 packs in the store. When I told the guy I was looking for blue ones he pulled out the book and couldn't find their price, for they were a special item.

I'll order mine from the Posi-lock site soon. I've got most of the feeders soldered and in place, but since I'm going to use a PM42 and have power districts (thanks to my newfound desire to have and run more sound-equipped locos), I've delayed putting in the track buses.
 
Bernie, the Posi-Tap line only includes red, blue, black, and yellow, unless NAPA is pulling fast one with colors too. Posi-Locs, which are used for butt connections, come in green, but they are for 6-8 gauge wire. The Blue #ZRTL-605-30 should work for you. The only caveat is that Posi-Taps work best with stranded wire. If you're using solid for the bus, strip a portion of the bus wire where the bottom of the Posi-Tap will go. That will assure that the metal tip will make a good connection with the bus wire. You don't need to do any stripping with stranded wire.
 
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