Paint - CSXT 6126 (GP40-2)


brickbuilder711

brickbuilder711

FEC Train 222
My Athearn Blue Box GP40-2 was fading away in YN2, and as per recent repaints in Waycross, I decided to recoat the unit into YN3.

Here, I have only applied the dark blue, as the dulux awaits until tomorrow.

DSC04172.jpg



CSXT6126.jpg
 
What did you use to apply the paint and what kind of paint is it? It may just be the light and picture angle, but the paint appears to be exceptionally thick to me.
 
UP2CSX said:
What did you use to apply the paint and what kind of paint is it? It may just be the light and picture angle, but the paint appears to be exceptionally thick to me.
Click to expand...

It was a spraypaint job... I am not the best since this was a first try, and it did not work for me... I would rather invest in a new RTR engine than dish out dollars to "pimp out" a blue box. I'll keep the shell and stuff, even though metal components have come to rust.
 
This is what you will always end up with when using spray-can paints. They are NOT manufactured to cover detailed models. They are made to cover your faded, rust-pitted patio chairs and turn them into something that looks smooth. Lots of solids in spray-can paints. They cover the pits, pocks, depressions, etc. They also cover the details.

If you want a paint job that LOOKS real, get an airbrush and learn how to use it correctly. The best way to do this is joing a scale model club (local chapter of International Plastic Modeler's Society) and hook up with some guys that can SHOW YOU HOW to use an airbrush.

The most important things about airbrushes: Keep them CLEAN. Break them down often and strip the paint out of them.
 
CoolRuehle said:
This is what you will always end up with when using spray-can paints. They are NOT manufactured to cover detailed models. They are made to cover your faded, rust-pitted patio chairs and turn them into something that looks smooth. Lots of solids in spray-can paints. They cover the pits, pocks, depressions, etc. They also cover the details.

If you want a paint job that LOOKS real, get an airbrush and learn how to use it correctly. The best way to do this is joing a scale model club (local chapter of International Plastic Modeler's Society) and hook up with some guys that can SHOW YOU HOW to use an airbrush.

The most important things about airbrushes: Keep them CLEAN. Break them down often and strip the paint out of them.
Click to expand...

It was all in experimentation, I wanted an airbrush myself, and still want one, but I guess it takes hunting for a cheap one to achieve one.
 
Check out the double action airbrush at Harbor Freight. You can get it for less than $20, sometimes $15 on sale. Everyone who has used one has been favorably impressed. You can also get a good compressor from them in the $60-$70 range. As you've seen from your spray can experiment, they just don't do a very good job.
 
UP2CSX said:
Check out the double action airbrush at Harbor Freight. You can get it for less than $20, sometimes $15 on sale. Everyone who has used one has been favorably impressed. You can also get a good compressor from them in the $60-$70 range. As you've seen from your spray can experiment, they just don't do a very good job.
Click to expand...

To say the least, I am glad I did it through a Blue Box unit with a chipped off rear pilot. I will vouch for a spraypaint due to smoother paint, especially as I weather and detail trains in the future.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top