Old versus new snap switches


K

kencunningham

Member
Will the older snap switches work with code 100 ns switches that are new. I see that the new switches say code 100 on the packaging. The ones im seeing have yellow ink on the cardboard part, the new ones are black. I see they are made different, but will they work just as good?
 
I'm sorry I'm a little confused. The cardboard part on the package or on the switch? I don't think there is cardboard on the snap switch itself but that's why I figured I better ask :D. I don't really like any snap switches at all b/c I had trouble with them any time I ever used them and still do but I can tell you that if the older ones are brass and the new ones are NS you will have much less trouble w/ the new ones. Brass is prone to a nasty green corrosion especially around the switch points in my experience.
 
aah I see. Well, idk about that but my instinct is yes. I'm pretty sure that the switch motors have not changed much for the snap switches since I started using them fifteen years ago. Don't most snap switches come w/ the motors? Or is it cheaper to buy them w/out them and then install your own if the old ones work?
 
You shouldn't have much trouble with the older snap switch machines working with the new turnouts, except that the older machines may not have the little tabs that snap into the sides of the turnouts (track switches), and may require the use of the small nuts and machine screws that are packaged with the switch machines. If they aren't with the used machines you can probably pick up some small hex nuts and machine screws (2-56...I THINK).

I've got some very old Atlas switch machines, the ones with the attachments on both sides to connect with either the right or left-hand turnouts, and the throw arms are steel wire instead of plastic. As long as the solenoids are okay, you should have no problem.

Some folks object to the switch machines being on the top side of the layout. You can probably still get the underside connectors. But my current layout under construction has all the switch machines mounted on top (layout height = 30-36" AFL (above floor level), so I can sit down and operate and small kids can see without being lifted up or standing on a step stool. At my age, crawling under the layout, even with the Bottom Side Crawler can be a MAJOR PAIN!

Caution: Model railroading can be a lifelong addiction! You may be unable to pass a hobby shop from now on...without going in and buying something! Welcome to the club!
 
I'm quite new here.

I would point out that Atlas turnouts have improved over the years with #6 and # 8 being available at this point. When I was a kid, it was #4 or nothing. Atlas had to compete or simply not be purchased anymore. They improved. The big difference I see is that Atlas does not power route where Peco does which you may or may not like. Shinohara requires some operator experience in my book. Beautiful but touchy feely. I have machines below the layout where there is viewing but in the Staging area, I'll do absolutely anything as long as it's fast.
 
Thanks to everyone for your responses. Im just trying to gather items where i can find them at a bargain so that i can get started on getting some trains running. Later on i would like to go with the toroise and hare combination. They seem to have lots of features and the price, while not cheap, is still doable. I would like to hear anyones opinions on switch equipment, ie, which type to use and what benefits it brings to the layout. Thanks again.
 
Something else to keep in mind - the #4 Snap switches have a continuous curve through the diverginging route, meaning they were designed to be a direct replacement for a single piece of 18" radius Snap Track. The Customline #4 switches are more of a proto-type design in that the diverging route is a straight angle departure.


Mark.
 
Mark R. said:
Something else to keep in mind - the #4 Snap switches have a continuous curve through the diverginging route, meaning they were designed to be a direct replacement for a single piece of 18" radius Snap Track. The Customline #4 switches are more of a proto-type design in that the diverging route is a straight angle departure. Mark.
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And that's where the problem lies in trying to get modern or lengthy equipment through a Snap switch. You are suddenly trying to get a piece of equipment designed for broader curves through an 18" radius curve. It doesn't work too well.
If you have four axle loco's or small steamers and short rolling stock, you should be OK. Otherwise, you may have problems.
 
Or even worse, trying to use that switch in a yard line where you want to straighten out that set of rip tracks and you get a back and forth motion which tries the patience of couplers and can push cars towards derailments. It's a case of getting what you pay for. I still have some but they're in the hinterlands. I would rather not have #4's but I don't have the space for '6 's and '8's everywhere. I just don't really use 50' rolling stock so it doesn't kill me. It does get my attention though.
 
well my point is to avoid letting a string of cars start to snake back and forth on a tight radius. It always gives me a lot of trouble.
 
trailrider said:
You shouldn't have much trouble with the older snap switch machines working with the new turnouts, except that the older machines may not have the little tabs that snap into the sides of the turnouts (track switches), and may require the use of the small nuts and machine screws that are packaged with the switch machines. If they aren't with the used machines you can probably pick up some small hex nuts and machine screws 2-56 I think
Click to expand...

I just measured one and it was 3-48.
 
AlanHy said:
I just measured one and it was 3-48.
Click to expand...

Sorry about that! I didn't have my thread gages at hand. The newer Atlas turnouts that come without live switch machines (hand throws that look like the switch machines, but without any electric guts) come with nuts and screws in a small bubble pack inside the main pack.
 
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