Old Marx Questions


N

noacronym

New Member
New to this forum, and new to model trains, if you discount what I learned as a 3 or 4 year old in 1959 and 60. Now a worn out old man I snagged me some Marx stuff just like I had then, which was more likely Allstate from the Sears Roebuck. I doubt my Dad was in any financial condition for Santa Claus to bring a fancy Lionel set-up for a 3 year old. Anyway, here's my first question: Back then were there 2 different types of curved rails, with the pegs sticking out the other end? Because I want to make a long oval on a 4x8 set-up with one long straight side, and the other having a curve-in and back out. But when I turn the curved rails around is male-to-male. The pegs are crimped into the tubes. Are you just supposed to pull them out forcefully and stick them in the other end? Or did they make mirror image curved rail pieces back then? Thank you.
 
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Thank you. I have a few more questions that might help get me off to a good start. today was Saturday and I spent the entire day cleaning and straightening a batch of old track, and sanding joining pins and re-pinching the ends to insure good mating and contact. Yet I still have weak sections, electrically. What are some if any, dealers that cater to train hobbyists? Is there any such thing as jumper clips of some kind, to electrically jumper the track joints? Although I have a few more questions, I don't want to gang them up on one post and cause anyone to have to write a book to answer them. So for now, this is an AC train. What causes the engine to want to run backwards when it hits a bad track section? Its AC, not DC. This is strange. But one thing is for sure. I need to even out the voltage all the way around the 4x8 setup before I can even attempt to hook cars to the engine.
 
Marx trains are similar to Post-War and most MPC Era Lionel trains. The wiring and operation are often identical. Lionel tubular track, power supplies and some accessories from these Lionel Eras will work with your train.

YouTube is loaded with videos that can help you.

Both Lionel and Marx trains like yours reverse direction when the power is interrupted briefly. That is how they are designed to work.
 
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This is one of many dealers that you can buy from.
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I set up this old tarnished thrift store 4x8 Marx outfit 2 days ago, expecting very little. I got exactly nothing. So I spent the WHOLE DAY yesterday cleaning, straghtening, sanding, and pinching ends to fit more tightly, and still got nothing. So out out came the voltohmeter to individually check the track sections for shorts. AHA! One had a dead short. So I got replaced it, and it started working. but lousy. I had to constantly ride the transformer tap lever just to get the engine around the track. Constant derailments when it hit the area of the track with the connections and take off towards the curve. Forget adding cars. It's obvious that what I'm going to have to do is take the track apart in sections of 4 or 5 at a time and jumper them with wire. I think I'll do the center rail only for now, and see what I get, before jumpering the outer rails too. Try to even out the voltage all the way around the track. I have only 2 sections of track with electrical hookiup buses. I suppose I ought to place them on opposite sides of the track and parallel them to the transformer.
This country got locked into track gauges more than 150 years ago. I can step across the railroad tracks in 2 steps. Yet the engines and cars are 30 feet tall. Makes me wonder why we don't have 5000 train derailments a day in this country. Gives you a whole new appreciation for the skill and experience of engineers. They have to know every inch of track, and ride the throttle nervously like a cat in a room full of rocking chairs.
 
OK Here is what I get for my weekend of work. This is my Marx 999 train. The track is an assemblage of 2 train sets, old and new (new being about 1960 I'm guessing). What I did was pull the track apart in sections of 5 pieces and jumper the individual joints of the center rail. Dramatic improvement, yet not perfect yet. What I need to do is get this set up on a 4x8 plywood table and secure the track down so it,s flat. You can't run this on the carpet like this as the track budges up and down as the heavy metal engine passes over it. Derailing is a constant threat. Additionally, there are some weak ground sections. What I should do once its on table, is run a ground bus wire attached to each individual track section.
When Santa Claus brought these toy Marx train sets to the 4 year old boy, chances are the set had 2 straight sections and the rest curves. And they were brand new, so no electrical dropouts between the sections. They say Marx were toy cheap toy trains compared to the "serious" brands. I contend Marx also make some nice stuff that can be made to run very well and look very good.
 
I would say your off to a great start! Yes, mounting it on a sheet of plywood will probably help even more. Plus you will know yor real estate, and be able to now plan some scenery.
 
noacronym said:
Thank you. I have a few more questions that might help get me off to a good start. today was Saturday and I spent the entire day cleaning and straightening a batch of old track, and sanding joining pins and re-pinching the ends to insure good mating and contact. Yet I still have weak sections, electrically. What are some if any, dealers that cater to train hobbyists? Is there any such thing as jumper clips of some kind, to electrically jumper the track joints? Although I have a few more questions, I don't want to gang them up on one post and cause anyone to have to write a book to answer them. So for now, this is an AC train. What causes the engine to want to run backwards when it hits a bad track section? Its AC, not DC. This is strange. But one thing is for sure. I need to even out the voltage all the way around the 4x8 setup before I can even attempt to hook cars to the engine.
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The motor changes direction by design when the power is removed. That's what a reverse switch does, it kills the power then turns it back on through the E-unit. Google e-unit, it's quite an amazing design.
 
Hutch said:
The motor changes direction by design when the power is removed. That's what a reverse switch does, it kills the power then turns it back on through the E-unit. Google e-unit, it's quite an amazing design.
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I forgot to mention, they do make clips to hold the tracks together.
 
Not only do the outsides of the rails need to be clean, but so do the insides. Especially where the rail joiners make contact. You might try swabbing the internal ends of the tubular rails with a fine wire tube-cleaning brush, or perhaps a pipe cleaner or such. Also, spray the rail ends (both the open ends and the joiner ends) with some CRC contact cleaner. This should help considerably with electrical continuity.

On a roughly 4' x 8' or 5' x 9'-sized layout, and assuming the track connections are all sound, hooking up maybe 3 or 4 hot wire/ground wire connections equally spaced around the layout should be more than sufficient for good electrical distribution. 16 ga. or 18 ga. wire would also be sufficient. Anything heavier would also be fine if you have some already laying around. I wouldn't recommend anything lighter than 18 ga, though. Older Lionel, Marx, and American Flyer trains with AC motors draw considerably more amperage than smaller DC-powered locos do.
 
Another question, and there will be one more following. Seeing as how there is a 62 year gap in my electric train knowledge, and the greatest probability is that all I ever knew as a toddler was most likely Marx or Sears Allstate, I'm of the opinion that this Marx track is not of the highest quality. I can make it work, but would vintage Lionel brand be any better, and do the 2 brands of O gauge have the same fittings that allow one to connect directly to the other? May as well make this one a two-fer. This 999 set has an all metal engine and nicer 8 wheel cars. And the track looks very old and tarnished. The engine has a crack in one of the big wheels. No doubt pot-metal. Any idea what decade it's from? Thank you.
 
noacronym said:
OK Here is what I get for my weekend of work. This is my Marx 999 train. The track is an assemblage of 2 train sets, old and new (new being about 1960 I'm guessing). What I did was pull the track apart in sections of 5 pieces and jumper the individual joints of the center rail. Dramatic improvement, yet not perfect yet. What I need to do is get this set up on a 4x8 plywood table and secure the track down so it,s flat. You can't run this on the carpet like this as the track budges up and down as the heavy metal engine passes over it. Derailing is a constant threat. Additionally, there are some weak ground sections. What I should do once its on table, is run a ground bus wire attached to each individual track section.
When Santa Claus brought these toy Marx train sets to the 4 year old boy, chances are the set had 2 straight sections and the rest curves. And they were brand new, so no electrical dropouts between the sections. They say Marx were toy cheap toy trains compared to the "serious" brands. I contend Marx also make some nice stuff that can be made to run very well and look very good.
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Looks like it runs well! despite being on carpet 😮
Oh and PS: Welcome to the forum, i am new-ish here too and they are nice helpful group, I have learned a lot perusing round this place! :)
 
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noacronym said:
Another question, and there will be one more following. Seeing as how there is a 62 year gap in my electric train knowledge, and the greatest probability is that all I ever knew as a toddler was most likely Marx or Sears Allstate, I'm of the opinion that this Marx track is not of the highest quality. I can make it work, but would vintage Lionel brand be any better, and do the 2 brands of O gauge have the same fittings that allow one to connect directly to the other? May as well make this one a two-fer. This 999 set has an all metal engine and nicer 8 wheel cars. And the track looks very old and tarnished. The engine has a crack in one of the big wheels. No doubt pot-metal. Any idea what decade it's from? Thank you.
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If I recall correctly, the older Lionel track will work. In the late 70's I had Lionel's and was buying Marx stuff when it popped up. I ran the Marx on the same track and transformers and my just postwar Lionels. Dam, I wish I still had them.
 
noacronym said:
I'm of the opinion that this Marx track is not of the highest quality. I can make it work, but would vintage Lionel brand be any better, and do the 2 brands of O gauge have the same fittings that allow one to connect directly to the other?
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Marx track and Lionel O27 tubular track are compatible with each other. The pins should also be interchangeable. Lionel's O31 tubular track should work as well, but I don't have firsthand knowledge.

Switches are another story. The plastic base versions of Marx switches don't work well with Lionel's tubular track. Because of the design of the plastic base switch frog. Metal switches work well with Lionel track. Lionel trains do not work well with Marx switches. Because Lionel spaced its electrical contacts differently from Marx. I'm unsure if Marx trains work with Lionel switches. They should, but again I don't have firsthand knowledge.

Both Lionel and Marx track corrode. Obviously the worse the corrosion the worse the operation of your train will be. Don't be shy of being aggressive with removing corrosion. I use fine emery cloth to remove stubborn corrosion on my Fastrack. If you ruin a piece of track. Keep in mind it did not work when you started.

After you get your track clean coat it with something to improve conductivity and slow corrosion.
I like this. I apply it to new track as well.
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Aero-Car-Hobby-Lubricants-Track-Cleaner/

Buying new track is your easiest solution.

Lionel O27 Tubular Track

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You could even use Lionel's latest 3-rail track, Fastrack. Or most any other 3-rail track.
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If you are not running any switches, I would go with Fastrack. It is resilient and I have yet to ruin a piece cleaning it with emery cloth. It even holds up if you step on it!

They even make transition pieces to combine Fastrack and tubular track, making switches an option.

Lots of options, there will be pros and cons to each. It depends on what you want to ultimately achieve.

One suggestion; build your benchwork as big as possible or make it easily expandable. Your plans may change as you go along. Mine certainly did.
 
noacronym said:
Another question, and there will be one more following. Seeing as how there is a 62 year gap in my electric train knowledge, and the greatest probability is that all I ever knew as a toddler was most likely Marx or Sears Allstate, I'm of the opinion that this Marx track is not of the highest quality. I can make it work, but would vintage Lionel brand be any better, and do the 2 brands of O gauge have the same fittings that allow one to connect directly to the other? May as well make this one a two-fer. This 999 set has an all metal engine and nicer 8 wheel cars. And the track looks very old and tarnished. The engine has a crack in one of the big wheels. No doubt pot-metal. Any idea what decade it's from? Thank you.
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When it comes to track, here's a good source for information AND some track itself...................
https://www.tinman3rail.com/

And some information on the Marx 999 loco.......................
https://dfarq.homeip.net/marx-999-locomotive-variations/
 
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